Your Opinion? Embarking on a Typhoon Project

[westendbikewrench]

Hey CDSOA Captains and Crew!

I am looking for your opinions on the condition of and concerns you may have about a 1983? Typhoon Weekender that I am considering purchasing.

A bit about me: I have sailed this boat before, and am not afraid to get my hands dirty. My last/current boat and project is a 196? South Coast SeaCraft 21, upon which I spent nearly 250 hours renovating and replacing the 4 wooden bulkheads, re-coring a fair bit of the deck, and painting/finishing the brightwork, hull, bottom, and teak.

A bit about the boat; (HIN CPDD1904M83B) Owned by my local yacht club on Buzzards Bay, owned, maintained, and sailed for many years, they now have little interest in it. It has been sitting on the less than 10 year old trailer for maybe 3 years now, and has about 2 feet of water in the cabin/bilge. I think the sails are in fair shape, but I am concerned about the state of the standing rig. I have had a mast snap on me due to poor/uninspected shrouds; not trying to repeat that!

My questions for the brain trust;

1. Anything that I should be concerned about regarding the water stitting in the bilge for that long?
2. Any particular quirks or strengths/weaknesses regarding the '83 (later model) hulls?
3. If the rig is indeed unsafe, what does a new weekender rig cost?
4. If you had the time/space/youth/tools to take on this project, would you for $2k for hull/trailer/sails/rig in current shape?

Pictures to follow. I greatly appreciate any and all insight!

[westendbikewrench]

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Photos regarding above post

[hinmo]

working on a partial restore myself, I'm in Mattapoisett. Its a 1980. In good shape except for some cracks in the floor by the drain, a smaell section of the teak rubrail is off and cracked (but I have the piece).

I am sure there will be more.

I will address some of your questions later...Good Luck,

BTW - not worth 2K in my mind.....

John

[tjr818]

What kind of "Yacht Club" would allow that to happen to any sailboat?

[John Stone]

4. If you had the time/space/youth/tools to take on this project, would you for $2k for hull/trailer/sails/rig in current shape?
I greatly appreciate any and all insight!

There is no right or wrong answer to this question. It depends on your desired endstate.

I don't know much about the Ty other than it's a great boat for its class and genre. But I do know something about rebuilding a Cape Dory. http://www.farreachvoyages.com

If you want a boat that will get you on the water quickly and in a boat in good shape then this is not the one. But if you want to rebuild/restore a Ty to a like-new boat then this could be a great choice since you'll strip it nearly bare and then rebuild it anyway. If the trailer is a good one and in decent shape then certainly it's worth it...again only if you're prepared for a rebuild.

The water in the bilge does not concern me. The rigging looks terrible and needs replacing. That's not going to cost much for standing rigging. I can't tell a thing about the mast. This would be a great project boat. But it takes commitment. Probably a couple three hundred of hours of work. Just guessing of course.

I rebuilt my boat. Well worth it to me.

[Jim Walsh]

Hey CDSOA Captains and Crew!

I am looking for your opinions on the condition of and concerns you may have about a 1983? Typhoon Weekender that I am considering purchasing.

A bit about me: I have sailed this boat before, and am not afraid to get my hands dirty. My last/current boat and project is a 196? South Coast SeaCraft 21, upon which I spent nearly 250 hours renovating and replacing the 4 wooden bulkheads, re-coring a fair bit of the deck, and painting/finishing the brightwork, hull, bottom, and teak.

A bit about the boat; (HIN CPDD1904M83B) Owned by my local yacht club on Buzzards Bay, owned, maintained, and sailed for many years, they now have little interest in it. It has been sitting on the less than 10 year old trailer for maybe 3 years now, and has about 2 feet of water in the cabin/bilge. I think the sails are in fair shape, but I am concerned about the state of the standing rig. I have had a mast snap on me due to poor/uninspected shrouds; not trying to repeat that!

My questions for the brain trust;

1. Anything that I should be concerned about regarding the water stitting in the bilge for that long?
2. Any particular quirks or strengths/weaknesses regarding the '83 (later model) hulls?
3. If the rig is indeed unsafe, what does a new weekender rig cost?
4. If you had the time/space/youth/tools to take on this project, would you for $2k for hull/trailer/sails/rig in current shape?

Pictures to follow. I greatly appreciate any and all insight!

Dwyer Mast is located in Bristol, R.I. https://www.dwyermast.com/default.asp
Once you have the cost of a replacement rig take a detailed look at the boat and see what must be replaced so you can determine the cost of those items. The trailer likely needs wheel bearings and tires at the minimum after ten years. A soft hammer will provide some indication of compromised core materials. A cost analysis of those components which need immediate attention will allow you to determine if the financial commitment exceeds your comfort level.
I would have thought a yacht club would look favorably upon someone interested in resurrecting a boat they had abandoned for several years and let it go for a nominal amount. Perhaps if you approach them with your cost analysis they will be willing to substantially reduce the asking price.

[Shinok]

What happened to the mast? It looks like someone dropped it, but the hole for the pin is elongated and weird too. I also don't think the base of the mast is typical, mine is cut at a bit of an angle so it fits into the mast step properly, but maybe they changed the step in later models? I wonder if this damage is ultimately what led to the boat being neglected.

The standing rigging is probably done for, I got a quote ~$600 to replace mine on #1508.

Where did the water come from? Was it leaking from the hatch, portlights, or companionway boards or somewhere else? That's a lot of water. It's kindof mind blowing they'd leave all that sitting in there while trying to sell the boat rather than take the time to pump it out. I don't think there is anything cored in the cabin or below deck, so I don't think aside from replacing the wood trim that would be a huge issue, but where it came from might be a problem. I'd check the state of the chainplate backings using a borescope or camera to ensure they weren't leaking and corroded to the point of no return. I imagine all that water sitting there probably seized any seacocks, if there are any. One photo shows what appears to be some wire running through the cabin, if there is an electrical system then all that needs to be replaced also.

Pay close attention to the gelcoat on the deck and hull, it seems a lot of Typhoons have crazing problems and it's a pain to fix properly.

I forget how the Typhoon mast step is supported, I seem to recall some used a thick wood support while later models used steel or aluminum. You might want to try and make sure that area is properly supported, as well as make sure there are no wet sections around the rest of the deck.

[gonesail]

looks like you need a new mast and rigging and probably sails too. inside needs new wood and cushions. is the motor working? seems like a lot of work when you could get one in better condition and be sailing or hanging out on the water. up to you of course

[sloopjohnl]

when i bought mine in '90, it was full of rain water to the cabin sole. upon inspection i discovered the hull below the water line had extensive small blistering (pox) which required gelcoat removal followed by epoxy coating and barrier coats. negotiated the price down for that reason. the cabin cushions were still in the original owners garage in the plastic from the factory! cost then was about $350 for materials but lots of labor.
the trailer may be worth $1000-1500 at least depending on condition.
i sold mine in summer 2021 before moving to FL for $5500 - boat/trailer/2hp Honda/6hp Johnson and lots of accessories - all in very good shape.
Just a reference point.

[Shinok]

Something else to consider if that water has been there a long time, the fiberglass inside the cabin and bilge can blister just as much as it can outside of the hull. Probably not an issue, but I'd insist on them pumping it out, clean it a bit, then make sure it isn't an issue. I'd also be concerned if it's to the height of the cockpit sole, if there is any cracking under it or gaps then it could saturate the sole from the bottom up.

...had extensive small blistering (pox) which required gelcoat removal followed by epoxy coating and barrier coats.

I am doing this now, but due to extensive cracking and eroding of the gelcoat along the full length of the hull. Based on what I've seen here and on the Facebook group, I think a lot of Typhoons suffer from this issue, most may not know it since the paint fills the cracks. I didn't identify it while evaluating the boat because a lot of it was covered with hard bottom paint, which faired in the cracks, as soon as I removed it you could see the gelcoat was in real bad shape.

I think I paid around $130 per gallon of Interprotect, I'm expecting it'll take 2-3 gallons to cover it several times. I also went through 4 Tyvek suits, 2 large packs of 40 grit sanding pads, 4 shopvac hepa filters and bags, and various gloves/etc. I'm almost done with the epoxy and will be fairing it down this week, I've used about half of the larger West System containers and will end up using 2/3rds of the larger container of colloidal silica.

In all I think I'm looking at around $800 or so just in everything needed to do it. That's not including attempts to remove bottom paint using TotalStrip, which was a disasater. Removing the gelcoat wasn't terrible, but was tricky if you have to control the dust (I did since I'm not in a boatyard), if I didn't have to worry about that then it is a lot less work. I don't know how effective a peeler would have been, the gelcoat thickness was really random along the entire length of the hull, but that might be easier in spots if you have access to one.

I spent a few hours a day grinding, applying the epoxy has taken me maybe 3-4 hours total. I'm expecting a few days of fairing and then a few to apply the barrier coat. In all, it isn't awful, I've spent far longer and far more doing other things, but I'd price this in for sure because the cost starts climbing when you consider all the components necessary.

[s2sailorlis]

What’s your budget and how much spare time do you have. I say keep looking….

[John Stone]

Something else to consider if that water has been there a long time, the fiberglass inside the cabin and bilge can blister just as much as it can outside of the hull. Probably not an issue, but I'd insist on them pumping it out, clean it a bit, then make sure it isn't an issue. I'd also be concerned if it's to the height of the cockpit sole, if there is any cracking under it or gaps then it could saturate the sole from the bottom up.

...had extensive small blistering (pox) which required gelcoat removal followed by epoxy coating and barrier coats.

I am doing this now, but due to extensive cracking and eroding of the gelcoat along the full length of the hull. Based on what I've seen here and on the Facebook group, I think a lot of Typhoons suffer from this issue, most may not know it since the paint fills the cracks. I didn't identify it while evaluating the boat because a lot of it was covered with hard bottom paint, which faired in the cracks, as soon as I removed it you could see the gelcoat was in real bad shape.

I think I paid around $130 per gallon of Interprotect, I'm expecting it'll take 2-3 gallons to cover it several times. I also went through 4 Tyvek suits, 2 large packs of 40 grit sanding pads, 4 shopvac hepa filters and bags, and various gloves/etc. I'm almost done with the epoxy and will be fairing it down this week, I've used about half of the larger West System containers and will end up using 2/3rds of the larger container of colloidal silica.

In all I think I'm looking at around $800 or so just in everything needed to do it. That's not including attempts to remove bottom paint using TotalStrip, which was a disasater. Removing the gelcoat wasn't terrible, but was tricky if you have to control the dust (I did since I'm not in a boatyard), if I didn't have to worry about that then it is a lot less work. I don't know how effective a peeler would have been, the gelcoat thickness was really random along the entire length of the hull, but that might be easier in spots if you have access to one.

I spent a few hours a day grinding, applying the epoxy has taken me maybe 3-4 hours total. I'm expecting a few days of fairing and then a few to apply the barrier coat. In all, it isn't awful, I've spent far longer and far more doing other things, but I'd price this in for sure because the cost starts climbing when you consider all the components necessary.

Shinok,
Sounds like you are doing some good work.

I barrier coated my CD 36 with Interlux interprotect e2000 twice. Each time five or more coats with 2 gallons. I would be very surprised if you can't barrier coat a Ty with a gallon. Over a six year boat build to include gutting the boat and striping the hull twice I replaced my shop vac filter one time I think. Did you shake the filter out inside a plastic bag then blow it clean with an air compressor? You should be able to reuse the filter many times...at least I did.

Do you have a website? If not consider posting pictures to share what you are doing. Sounds great.

[Shinok]

Shinok,
Sounds like you are doing some good work.

I barrier coated my CD 36 with Interlux interprotect e2000 twice. Each time five or more coats with 2 gallons. I would be very surprised if you can't barrier coat a Ty with a gallon. Over a six year boat build to include gutting the boat and striping the hull twice I replaced my shop vac filter one time I think. Did you shake the filter out inside a plastic bag then blow it clean with an air compressor? You should be able to reuse the filter many times...at least I did.

Do you have a website? If not consider posting pictures to share what you are doing. Sounds great.

Thanks. I'll post photos and more details in the projects forum later. I wasn't sure how much Interprotect to get, but having to rely on mail order for all of it made me lean towards getting more than not enough.

As for reusing the filters...I considered doing this but given it was a mixture of some bottom paint and ground up gelcoat, I figured replacing the filter was a safer option, albeit more expensive. I was able to control the dust pretty well covering the boat with plastic and using a shroud on my grinder, but more dust came out trying to replace the bag/filter than throughout the rest of the process and I didn't want to make that more aggravated.

If I had been in a boatyard then I likely would have done it differently once the bottom paint was off.

[John Stone]

Shinok,
Sounds like you are doing some good work.

I barrier coated my CD 36 with Interlux interprotect e2000 twice. Each time five or more coats with 2 gallons. I would be very surprised if you can't barrier coat a Ty with a gallon. Over a six year boat build to include gutting the boat and striping the hull twice I replaced my shop vac filter one time I think. Did you shake the filter out inside a plastic bag then blow it clean with an air compressor? You should be able to reuse the filter many times...at least I did.

Do you have a website? If not consider posting pictures to share what you are doing. Sounds great.

Thanks. I'll post photos and more details in the projects forum later. I wasn't sure how much Interprotect to get, but having to rely on mail order for all of it made me lean towards getting more than not enough.

As for reusing the filters...I considered doing this but given it was a mixture of some bottom paint and ground up gelcoat, I figured replacing the filter was a safer option, albeit more expensive. I was able to control the dust pretty well covering the boat with plastic and using a shroud on my grinder, but more dust came out trying to replace the bag/filter than throughout the rest of the process and I didn't want to make that more aggravated.

If I had been in a boatyard then I likely would have done it differently once the bottom paint was off.

I use one of these though a much older version. I seldom have to clean the filter or empty the shop vac. Everything goes into the dust deputy can.


https://www.woodcraft.com/products/onei ... McEALw_wcB

There is no right are wrong way. You're getting after it and working the project and that's all the counts.

[Steve Laume]

I would run away from that one and walk away if it was free.

By the time you replace the mast, standing rigging, running rigging, sails, work on the trailer and try to get the boat back into reasonable condition, you could buy a decent Typhoon and be sailing without all the work. I have spent far too much of my time on projects over the years and now see that I would have been far better off looking for something I didn't have to save.

Free boats can get very expensive, Steve.