Leoma update 9/11/22

[JD-MDR]

IMG-0454.jpg (2.58 MiB) Viewed 1533 times

Had another nice weekend across the channel winds were 20-25. This boat sails so nice. I was totally comfortable with club jib, double reefed main and reefed mizzen. averaged 5.5-6 kt close hauled. I tried to take pics but they weren't very good.. once back home I noticed the weld at the base of the stern rail was broken. I took the rail to a welder and was happy to remove that rotten board that was on the deck above the transom.. I cleaned the area and put a layer of FB cloth but I can get a very good bend over the transom. Tomorrow I'll grind and try to finish the glass work.. The rail is all welded and polished. I made a teak pad for the stern light but everything else will be mounted directly on the glass deck, The pulpit and the chocks. I wish I could afford bigger chocks I have 4". I don't like them. I'll get some photos. I also received the Victron battery monitor and the Genasun controller I ordered.

[jbenagh]

Two thoughts:
Great on the Genasun and solar success!
Best of luck on everything else. You're doing great so far and I, at least, am all in on seeing you succeed!
Jeff

[JD-MDR]

Finished getting the stern work done. I like it much better w/o that board. I didn’t get a perfect wrap over the bend w/ fiberglass maybe 80%. It is sealed though much better than before. You can see why I don’t like the chocks. My mooring lines don’t fit with the chaffing hose on it. Another problem is the windvane paddle , when up in the stowed position, blocks the stern light. Actually I want better nav lites. I can get a stern lite that mounts on the windvane tower. I noticed the solinoid for the propane was really getting rusty. I wrapped it with rubber. I wonder if that’s not a good idea ???
The boat is really taking a beating. I ordered more topside paint. I think when I’m in Mexico. I might try tip and rolling the hull. The cabin and cockpit would have to be stripped of all the poly Ive been told

79856A30-013E-40EC-8EC2-8A309C3DC5B6.jpeg (3.46 MiB) Viewed 1498 times

dl

[hilbert]

It is difficult to wrap fiberglass over a sharp corner and the the angle between the deck and the transom is well over 90°.
To get glass to adhere, it helps to round an edge. The greater the radius, the easier it will be.
You did well considering the sharp angle and the boat in the water.

[John Stone]

Some good work there JD. I like it better without the wood on the fantail. A much cleaner look. Hilbert's right about that radius but of course thinner cloth bends easier. Looks pretty good to my eye.

I hope you like the battery monitor and solar control. It's what I have and it has worked great for me.

Glad you had a fine sail. Few things can lift a man's heart like a good day of sailing except maybe a good dog.

Keep the faith.

[JD-MDR]

It is difficult to wrap fiberglass over a sharp corner and the the angle between the deck and the transom is well over 90°.
To get glass to adhere, it helps to round an edge. The greater the radius, the easier it will be.
You did well considering the sharp angle and the boat in the water.

Thanks. Another guy told me it helps to have more material draping down past the tape line. It would have more weight. Says he used to build surfboards like that. I guess that would waste a lot of material

[JD-MDR]

Another point. The chocks were set with wood screwed , small ones, I set them back a little and used thru bolts with backing. One had pulled up once when we had strong Santa Ana winds. Also. I think I don’t need those half oval guards. They don’t seem to be doing anything. There was another running all the way across but not on the deck it was on the transom. I’m worried about the propane regulator. It’s getting a lot of corrosion.

[John Stone]

I agree the semi closed chocks are not useful. You might replace with useful larger closed ones. Mine have removable pins on top to keep the line in. I can post a photo if you like.

I don't have any experience with an exposed regulator. If it's a trident marine one you could call and talk to the tech reps and see what they say about longevity in salt environment. Also, ask them about spraying them with "fluid film." It's pretty capable stuff.

[JD-MDR]

I don't have any experience with an exposed regulator. If it's a trident marine one you could call and talk to the tech reps and see what they say about longevity in salt environment. Also, ask them about spraying them with "fluid film." It's pretty capable stuff.

I called Viking They say you can paint them or coat them but to be careful not to clog the vents. I see four ,what looks like vent holes, around the diaphragm part of the regulator. They also told me that the solenoid can get hot and it might melt the rubber I wrapped around it.
Also I'm confused how to hook up mu battery monitor. My wiring job is kind of a mess I don't know how you guys make it so nice.
The neg bus at lower left goes to engine ground and has both batteries on it as well as some other things like bilge pump I'm not sure. I knew I should have label things. I even bought a labeler

[John Stone]

Labeling definitely helps. Got to know what goes where.

This is the info source I used to understand what I was doing. Then the directions made sense to me. The real meat if it's in the second half. But it's all useful.

https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-battery-monitor/

Take your time. RC Collins does a very thorough job explaining all the why and then the how.

Keep us posted.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks John.. It looks simple enough but what I'm worried about is the ship ground for the starter battery.. I'm not hooking up the starter battery to the monitor at this time. It looks like the ship ground for the house battery goes on the load side of the shunt. Then all other grounds can come off that load side to a bus. I wonder if I should put the ship ground for the starter battery on that same terminal. Maybe I should run it's own cable directly to the engine block.
I tried calling Victron rep. no luck. I left a email .

[John Stone]

Thanks John.. It looks simple enough but what I'm worried about is the ship ground for the starter battery.. I'm not hooking up the starter battery to the monitor at this time. It looks like the ship ground for the house battery goes on the load side of the shunt. Then all other grounds can come off that load side to a bus. I wonder if I should put the ship ground for the starter battery on that same terminal. Maybe I should run it's own cable directly to the engine block.
I tried calling Victron rep. no luck. I left a email .

I don't remember how I did it. I'll have to check my diagram or check the engine neg. I think they all go to the main neg bus. But again, I don't remember and my knowledge is thin here. I'll have to check.

[John Stone]

JD, I don't know how your boat is wired. But I checked some of my old info and I led the neg cable coming off the engine start neg post to the main bus. All my battery neg cables and the panel neg all go to that bus.

Keep in mind I have no AC on my boat. We are a DC only boat.

Does that help.

Here is photo from behind my engine looking forward. Pos cable from starter to engine panel on left. Starter neg comes up and across under cockpit sole crossing to main neg bus.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks John. I don't see how that bus connects to the shunt for the monitor.I assume it somehow goes to the load side of the shunt. Then I guess it doesn't matter if both battery negs are joined at load side of the shunt.

[John Stone]

If my memory serves me well...the monitor neg connects to the shunt via that little data cable. The monitor positive goes to the battery pos as depicted in the photo you posted from marine how to. I think all that's covered in the Victron instructions too. I recall comparing them carefully and they were in agreement.