The stanchions on my cd36 wobble and are not as secure as I would like when my lifelines are not taut. I still have the small original set screws that are mounted in the base....these are tired and in reality do not do a good job. I have a few ideas...one would be to drill through the stanchion and use a long bolt and lock nut. Sounds like a pain in the butt job and was wondering if you nice folk have any suggestions.
Thank you,
Charlie
jcp1347@gateway.net
stanchions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: stanchions
Charlie,
Before through-bolting, I would try drilling out the threads on the bases and the stanchions, and tapping new threads for larger screws. It may be that the existing threads are worn.
Bill
goldy@bestweb.net
Before through-bolting, I would try drilling out the threads on the bases and the stanchions, and tapping new threads for larger screws. It may be that the existing threads are worn.
Bill
charlie palumbo wrote: The stanchions on my cd36 wobble and are not as secure as I would like when my lifelines are not taut. I still have the small original set screws that are mounted in the base....these are tired and in reality do not do a good job. I have a few ideas...one would be to drill through the stanchion and use a long bolt and lock nut. Sounds like a pain in the butt job and was wondering if you nice folk have any suggestions.
Thank you,
Charlie
goldy@bestweb.net
Re: stanchions
Charlie,
The set screws in stanchion bases are a joke. Any large upward force on the stanchion (like when you are holding on for dear life) will pull it out of the base. I drilled mine through and installed 1/4 inch hex head bolts with self locking nuts. Use cobalt drills, high speed steel drills will dull too quickly. The job took about 10 minutes per stanchion.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
The set screws in stanchion bases are a joke. Any large upward force on the stanchion (like when you are holding on for dear life) will pull it out of the base. I drilled mine through and installed 1/4 inch hex head bolts with self locking nuts. Use cobalt drills, high speed steel drills will dull too quickly. The job took about 10 minutes per stanchion.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
Re: stanchions
I agree with Olli. The stanchions should be thru-bolted.
Set screws are a joke. Will they always be tight in heavy weather?
That's when you need them, you know. Will they withstand the force involved when you SLAM into a lifeline close to a stanchion, and thereby twist it - again and again?
When the wind pipes up, how likely are you to send someone with a teeny-tiny hex key forward to make sure the set screwa are tight?
Hope they don't drop it.
I twisted a stanchion once. Called a rigger and told him to thru-bolt all the stanchions the following week.
Rluby!@aol.com
Set screws are a joke. Will they always be tight in heavy weather?
That's when you need them, you know. Will they withstand the force involved when you SLAM into a lifeline close to a stanchion, and thereby twist it - again and again?
When the wind pipes up, how likely are you to send someone with a teeny-tiny hex key forward to make sure the set screwa are tight?
Hope they don't drop it.
I twisted a stanchion once. Called a rigger and told him to thru-bolt all the stanchions the following week.
Rluby!@aol.com