Has anyone solved the problem of the West Marine - Canada Metals prop nut(anode), does not have the same threads as our propeller shafts. Someone in a previous thread mentioned it, but nobody else has brought that up. I have a CD36, and the previous writer had a CD30. Without the Perry nuts or Electro Guard Zincs (both of which I have used in the past), I don't have any choices. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
rr354@hotmail.com
West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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charlie palumbo
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Rob,Rob Roy wrote: Has anyone solved the problem of the West Marine - Canada Metals prop nut(anode), does not have the same threads as our propeller shafts. Someone in a previous thread mentioned it, but nobody else has brought that up. I have a CD36, and the previous writer had a CD30. Without the Perry nuts or Electro Guard Zincs (both of which I have used in the past), I don't have any choices. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
As I had posted in a prior response to a similar message, use a 1" donut zinc around the shaft. I have a 1982 cd36 which I have owned for fourteen years and have never had a problem.
good luck...charlie
jcp1347@gateway.net
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Rob Roy
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Charlie,
I tried one of those a few years back. All I could find were ones that were 1&1/4 inch "thick". I had to grind off about 1/4 inch so it would fit in between my prop and the Cutless Bearing. Do you know of a manufacturer of 1" thick" ones? Also, subsequent to that, I was told that putting something that close to the Cutless Bearing would reduce the amount of water available to it, so I stop doing that. Do you have more exposed shaft than I do? The "Gap" on mine is about 1&1/8th inch wide. Thanks for your input.
Rob
rr354@hotmail.com
I tried one of those a few years back. All I could find were ones that were 1&1/4 inch "thick". I had to grind off about 1/4 inch so it would fit in between my prop and the Cutless Bearing. Do you know of a manufacturer of 1" thick" ones? Also, subsequent to that, I was told that putting something that close to the Cutless Bearing would reduce the amount of water available to it, so I stop doing that. Do you have more exposed shaft than I do? The "Gap" on mine is about 1&1/8th inch wide. Thanks for your input.
Rob
charlie palumbo wrote: Rob,
As I had posted in a prior response to a similar message, use a 1" donut zinc around the shaft. I have a 1982 cd36 which I have owned for fourteen years and have never had a problem.
good luck...charlie
rr354@hotmail.com
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Bob Loewenstein
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Last summer I saw a prop zinc that looked like it would fit on my 32 (1" shaft). It was at Fawcetts in Annapolis. I dinghied over with a prop nut and the zinc appeared to have the same size threads. I didn't purchase one since I had just put on a new perry nut and have a few extra, but I'm always looking for alternatives. You probably could call Fawcetts (I don't have their catalog here in Wisconsin) and talk to someone there. The people there are very savvy.
rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu
rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu
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Matt Cawthorne
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Rob, I have a 36 and six years ago bought one of the Canadian units (Size 'c' I think) and it fit just fine. Here are a list of possible alternatives.
1. Put a drive saver collar on your coupling. That will move your prop back an inch allowing room for the doughnut zinc and reduce the stresses on your shaft.
2. Get a new shaft made. It could be longer and get you around your space problem with the doughnut type zinc.
3. Get a new shaft made with threads that match the zinc unit.
4. If the threads are very close, get a machine shop to fix up the nut or the shaft to make them fit together. This assumes that the threads are of nominally the same profile, but have some tolerance problem.
I do not believe that the doughnut zinc can be a problem unless it is allowed to rub the back of the cutlass bearing. Water does not flow in and out of the cutlass in any kind of quantity. There is no pumping mechanism to make it do so. Hydrostatic pressure can make enough water get in to lubricate the bearing and stuffing box. If you do not believe me then push the zinc up against the cutlass bearing, tighten it and put your boat in the water without the stuffing box. You will see just how much water is available to the cutlass bearing. It is best to do this experiment on a Hunter. On the other hand, you do not want your zinc to rub against the back of the cutlass or it's housing. Give it enough room to allow for engine mount flex under high loads.
Matt.
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
1. Put a drive saver collar on your coupling. That will move your prop back an inch allowing room for the doughnut zinc and reduce the stresses on your shaft.
2. Get a new shaft made. It could be longer and get you around your space problem with the doughnut type zinc.
3. Get a new shaft made with threads that match the zinc unit.
4. If the threads are very close, get a machine shop to fix up the nut or the shaft to make them fit together. This assumes that the threads are of nominally the same profile, but have some tolerance problem.
I do not believe that the doughnut zinc can be a problem unless it is allowed to rub the back of the cutlass bearing. Water does not flow in and out of the cutlass in any kind of quantity. There is no pumping mechanism to make it do so. Hydrostatic pressure can make enough water get in to lubricate the bearing and stuffing box. If you do not believe me then push the zinc up against the cutlass bearing, tighten it and put your boat in the water without the stuffing box. You will see just how much water is available to the cutlass bearing. It is best to do this experiment on a Hunter. On the other hand, you do not want your zinc to rub against the back of the cutlass or it's housing. Give it enough room to allow for engine mount flex under high loads.
Matt.
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Ken Coit
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
A voice from Beaufort, NC:
Confirming what someone else said and Rob said again, "The West Marine Zincs don't fit." Maybe next time. Threads are fine on the zinc and coarse on the shaft. On Parfait, a 36, there is more than enough room for the donut zinc, so we have fitted one again; a streamlined zinc will not fit unless it is shortened or we move the prop aft. The last donut zinc did duty for about 18 months in our marina, so we hope the next one will too. West Marine in Morehead City, NC took back the prop zinc without a whimper even though I had ordered it special from the Raleigh store. In a separate transaction. later in the day, they also sold me a new charger on sale for roughly 20% off, so they did OK.
Anyone need a commercial grade ferroresonant 50A, two bank charger? It would make a good dinghy anchor if it didn't have all those sharp corners. Maybe it is the second installment on DC power for the house; the first installment was those old Rolls batteries we pulled a year ago. So why did we remove it? Well, the person who mounted it to the engine access panel in the port locker did not please me. I need to be able to touch that seacock at the bottom of the locker and the engine comparment provides a path large enough for me to fit even though it isn't much fun. The old charger location made this path unavailable. It was cut out and unbolted; since it is not a modern design, I am not going to any effort to place it elsewhere.
I have devised a way of working the inaccessable seacock from the cockpit. Assuming it has been serviced and is free to operate, a cord tied to the handle will pull the seacock open. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm betting that some schedule 40 PVC slipped over the cord will allow one to close the seacock, using it first as an extension and then as a push rod to complete the closure. There are more sophisticated ways, but they cost a lot more.
Anyway, Parfait is on the hard awaiting a dry day and yard workers for bottom sanding and painting. She is in the process of getting a shiny new coat or two of wax topside which we are doing ourselves. All the seacocks have been serviced. Most came apart with only a little tap, if any, even thought they appeared to be dry. Most went together harder than those I played with on the workbench as it appears the maximum amount of room was left for wear and resurfacing and not much for grease when the barrel and positioning washer were designed.
It is hard to get the washer locked to the barrel. This was obvious not only in my recent experience, but by examining the barrel. The D-key had been damaged by improper seating in the past. Nothing like a small file to work out those burs. I recommend doing a test assembly of the barrel and washer before getting back to the seacock. Morey's Red helps too.
It is a damp day here in Beaufort, but I guess we ought to head out to Parfait and see what else we can knock off the pre-launch list. I am taking advantage of the public library this morning as we did not bring a computer with us.
Ken Coit
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
parfait@nc.rr.com
Confirming what someone else said and Rob said again, "The West Marine Zincs don't fit." Maybe next time. Threads are fine on the zinc and coarse on the shaft. On Parfait, a 36, there is more than enough room for the donut zinc, so we have fitted one again; a streamlined zinc will not fit unless it is shortened or we move the prop aft. The last donut zinc did duty for about 18 months in our marina, so we hope the next one will too. West Marine in Morehead City, NC took back the prop zinc without a whimper even though I had ordered it special from the Raleigh store. In a separate transaction. later in the day, they also sold me a new charger on sale for roughly 20% off, so they did OK.
Anyone need a commercial grade ferroresonant 50A, two bank charger? It would make a good dinghy anchor if it didn't have all those sharp corners. Maybe it is the second installment on DC power for the house; the first installment was those old Rolls batteries we pulled a year ago. So why did we remove it? Well, the person who mounted it to the engine access panel in the port locker did not please me. I need to be able to touch that seacock at the bottom of the locker and the engine comparment provides a path large enough for me to fit even though it isn't much fun. The old charger location made this path unavailable. It was cut out and unbolted; since it is not a modern design, I am not going to any effort to place it elsewhere.
I have devised a way of working the inaccessable seacock from the cockpit. Assuming it has been serviced and is free to operate, a cord tied to the handle will pull the seacock open. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm betting that some schedule 40 PVC slipped over the cord will allow one to close the seacock, using it first as an extension and then as a push rod to complete the closure. There are more sophisticated ways, but they cost a lot more.
Anyway, Parfait is on the hard awaiting a dry day and yard workers for bottom sanding and painting. She is in the process of getting a shiny new coat or two of wax topside which we are doing ourselves. All the seacocks have been serviced. Most came apart with only a little tap, if any, even thought they appeared to be dry. Most went together harder than those I played with on the workbench as it appears the maximum amount of room was left for wear and resurfacing and not much for grease when the barrel and positioning washer were designed.
It is hard to get the washer locked to the barrel. This was obvious not only in my recent experience, but by examining the barrel. The D-key had been damaged by improper seating in the past. Nothing like a small file to work out those burs. I recommend doing a test assembly of the barrel and washer before getting back to the seacock. Morey's Red helps too.
It is a damp day here in Beaufort, but I guess we ought to head out to Parfait and see what else we can knock off the pre-launch list. I am taking advantage of the public library this morning as we did not bring a computer with us.
Ken Coit
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
Rob Roy wrote: Has anyone solved the problem of the West Marine - Canada Metals prop nut(anode), does not have the same threads as our propeller shafts. Someone in a previous thread mentioned it, but nobody else has brought that up. I have a CD36, and the previous writer had a CD30. Without the Perry nuts or Electro Guard Zincs (both of which I have used in the past), I don't have any choices. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
parfait@nc.rr.com
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Sean
Re: CANADA METALS Prop Zincs don't fit
You mean the prop zincs made by Canada Metals, and sold by all sorts of retailers?Rob Roy wrote: Has anyone solved the problem of the West Marine - Canada Metals prop nut(anode), does not have the same threads as our propeller shafts. Someone in a previous thread mentioned it, but nobody else has brought that up. I have a CD36, and the previous writer had a CD30. Without the Perry nuts or Electro Guard Zincs (both of which I have used in the past), I don't have any choices. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
foursailors@prodigy.com
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Jerry Laudermilk
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
Rob,Rob Roy wrote: Charlie,
I tried one of those a few years back. All I could find were ones that were 1&1/4 inch "thick". I had to grind off about 1/4 inch so it would fit in between my prop and the Cutless Bearing. Do you know of a manufacturer of 1" thick" ones? Also, subsequent to that, I was told that putting something that close to the Cutless Bearing would reduce the amount of water available to it, so I stop doing that. Do you have more exposed shaft than I do? The "Gap" on mine is about 1&1/8th inch wide. Thanks for your input.
Rob
Capeway Welding/New England Propeller in Plymouth, MA can set you up with a system that uses a donut-like zinc that fits BEHIND the prop, in the same space as the Perrynut. This works well on my CD30 and I know of a CD36 that uses the same setup with no problem. If you contact Capeway, ask for Ron Peck, he will know exactly what you need.
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Rob
Re: CANADA METALS Prop Zincs don't fit
Sean,
Yes, the Canada Metals "Martyr" ZINC-PROPNUT size "C", sold by West Marine (their Model # 132581) has fine threads, and won't fit. I was hoping that someone would be able to lead me to a course threaded version.
Rob
Yes, the Canada Metals "Martyr" ZINC-PROPNUT size "C", sold by West Marine (their Model # 132581) has fine threads, and won't fit. I was hoping that someone would be able to lead me to a course threaded version.
Rob
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John R.
Re: West Marine Prop Zincs don't fit
That sounds like the CAMP propnut zinc. It looks like a small donut.Jerry Laudermilk wrote:Rob,Rob Roy wrote: Charlie,
I tried one of those a few years back. All I could find were ones that were 1&1/4 inch "thick". I had to grind off about 1/4 inch so it would fit in between my prop and the Cutless Bearing. Do you know of a manufacturer of 1" thick" ones? Also, subsequent to that, I was told that putting something that close to the Cutless Bearing would reduce the amount of water available to it, so I stop doing that. Do you have more exposed shaft than I do? The "Gap" on mine is about 1&1/8th inch wide. Thanks for your input.
Rob
Capeway Welding/New England Propeller in Plymouth, MA can set you up with a system that uses a donut-like zinc that fits BEHIND the prop, in the same space as the Perrynut. This works well on my CD30 and I know of a CD36 that uses the same setup with no problem. If you contact Capeway, ask for Ron Peck, he will know exactly what you need.