zinc anode on Cape Dory 27

[Brian]

Can anyone tell where the zinc anode is on a Cape Dory 27 and how to replace it? In back of the propeller there are two nuts, and then another piece of metal on the end of the shaft which has a cotter pin through it. I think one of these must be the zinc but I'm not sure. Do I need to replace it? I've just bought the boat and not sure it may have last been done.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Newton Page]

The Shaft zink is between the hull and the prop. Sounds like you
do not have one. Your discription sounds like the nut & key that
secure the prop to the shaft.

Can anyone tell where the zinc anode is on a Cape Dory 27 and how to replace it? In back of the propeller there are two nuts, and then another piece of metal on the end of the shaft which has a cotter pin through it. I think one of these must be the zinc but I'm not sure. Do I need to replace it? I've just bought the boat and not sure it may have last been done.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Scott Ritchey]

My CD27 has a zinc on the prop nut. Same type sold by West Marine. Don't think it's original equipment.

[sam]

Our CD40 came (new) with a "Perry Nut " as the second nut on the end of the prop shaft. It was a castle nut with a big hunk of zinc on it. We used to get new ones from the factory somewhere in CA but one year were told we could no longer buy direct. Did not know of a dealer and they are very expensive so I added a second copper ground plate and attached a zinc to it. Seems to work fine. Was advised not to put a zinc between the hull and the prop as it could both interfer with water flow to the prop and restrict watert to the cutlass bearing because the space is so tight.

[Bob Ohler]

Brian, We have a CD25D. The surveyor said that the close clearance zincs that go between the prop and the hull are not a good idea, because you need sufficient water to get to the cutlass bearing. The correct zinc is mounted on the end of the shaft. Some refer to this as an acorn zinc. West marine sells both the entire assembly, and replacement zincs. And yes, it should be done once a year or so, depending on the electrolisys where you keep your boat. I bought a new assembly this year at West. I think the whole thing was about $30. And I think you'll need an I 1/4" wrench to do the job. Also, on our Yanmar 1GM, there is also an internal engine zinc that should be replaced regularly as well. You may need to do this too.



bobohler@chesapeake.net

[dave]

I have a cape dory 28. Can anyone tell me what size zinc to put
on the end of the shaft ?

dave



flea@xvslink.com

[Newton Page]

This is interesting. I have owned a CD27 for 10 years. When I
acquired it, it had a zink on the shaft between the hull and the
prop. It has had a new one every year in the same spot. The
bearing is very tight and there is no lack of lubricating water
judging from the flow through the packing gland.

I do not intend to fix my zink since it does not appear to be broken,
but I would be very interested in hearing where other CD27 owners
have put their shaft zinks.

Can anyone tell where the zinc anode is on a Cape Dory 27 and how to replace it? In back of the propeller there are two nuts, and then another piece of metal on the end of the shaft which has a cotter pin through it. I think one of these must be the zinc but I'm not sure. Do I need to replace it? I've just bought the boat and not sure it may have last been done.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Robin Meigel]

My prop zinc is a perry nut zinc aft of the propeller, not a doughnut between the prop and the hull.



rlmeigel@aol.com