Improving Ice Box Efficiency on CD30

[Mario]

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody



capedory252@aol.com

[Joe Sankey]

When we bought our 28' several years ago, the previous owner had cruised the Bahamas in it regularly. He had cut a series of sections of 1"-2" styrofoam which fit inside the icebox like a jigsaw puzzle. I never used it, but he swore by it! Not so glamorous, but not permanent, either.
Joe

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody

sankey@gulftel.com

[Ben Thomas]

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody

Mario, I have a cd 30 hull #248, hmm.. close to #252. Any way I was surprised to find the only insulation for the ice box was in the bulkhead aft and the headliner of the icebox itself.
This is what I did to save those btus. I pulled the drawers out just forward of icebox/and engine hatch to expose as much of the wood veneer around the icebox as possible, made a quess as to how thick the plywood was and the negative space between it and the icebox liner by reaching through and matching up my fingers, feeling my way. There is not much space, it varies on location. between the drawer space veneer and the forward icebox liner 5/8" to 3/4" was my quesstamation.
In the drawer area I drilled 1/2" holes into veneer without popping holes in the icebox liner. affixed stopper on drill bit set to 3/8" then to 1/2" till I broke through veneer Ply. drilled several in linear pattern starting at top and working down to base. I did the same on engine compartment section next to icebox. This was a source of a lot of heat motoring in summer.
Next stop home depot with purchase of several cans of non-expansive foam insulation. Its really important to get the stuff that doesn"t expand. It can blow the icebox walls in. also got 2'-3' sections of clear poly tubing to fix to outlet of foam can, I didn't use the short tube that comes with can. I fed the longer tube into the recesses of ice box spraying foam and slowly drawing tube out to the access hole that was drilled. starting at top and working down. the whole thing took maybe 4 cans. The bottom of icebox has lots of air space but also many water and drain lines. here I shot the foam up between the icebox and hull. but stopped short of those lines. you will see them with mirror and flashlight. Here I used a common high r rating insulation to stuff up under the icebox.
ON the engine compartment panel I attached a insulated foil around filters/regulator and such to help with engine heat.
Another really easy thing I've used on icebox drain since there is no loop in drainline it goes straight to bilge, I cut out a sponge to fit the drain hole this allows the slow dispersal of water from ice down drain but keeps the cold area trapped better.
all this really helped. One block of ice, being conservative on opening the icebox will last from a friday to sunday evening short cruise. all the way from mon. to thurs, with no openings of course thats usally when I can get back to boat to check on things. albiet the ice block is the size of two softballs togeather. good luck Ben

ps. be careful not to get that foam insulation on any thing it is a royal pain to remove, ruined shirt. also wore rubber surgical like gloves



btlandscapers@imagina.com

[Dennis Truett]

Mario,
You should search this board under ICE BOK. Last summer I sent out the same question. One thing I learned was that the drain should have a water trap in it ( just like your kitchen sink) With out it, the cold air "FALLS" down the drain and into the Bilge. Hopes this helps>

Dennis

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody

[Larry DeMers]

Excellent article! Timely too..thanks. I am installing refrigeration now, with insualtion of the box as the next item to get done.
I was wondering if there would be any advantage to appying the foam through 1 in. plugs cut in the top surface of the counter that the ice box is mounted on? We are thinking of putting a different formica top on anyway, so the holes would be simple to reseal and glue in place. I was wondering if there is something you saw or experienced that would make shooting the foam in from the top down, starting at the bottom and working up, -more difficult to do? The foam I found at the local home improvement shop is a Urethane (waterproof), non expanding foam made by Dow-Corning I believe. This is what i was thinking of using.
You had some good ideas with the location of the holes. How about sliding a larger tube over the water hoses and fill tube for the starboard water tank, so that the foam does not attach tot he hoses, but tot he tube. Then you could fill that area to the brim with foam, yet move the hoses or change them as needed by running them in and out of the tube.

Thanks for these ideas..they helped get me off a hard spot and get a plan going.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
~~Had a freak tornado this AM, 33 deg, snow, 3in. of rain caused flooding of all rivers and bridges are underwater, hail, and a fog induced ice storm that took out trees power and closed the highway with fallen trees and power lines! We had to spend another night onboard the boat till it got cleaned up!~~~~..it's gettin' darn wierd, this weather!

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody

Mario, I have a cd 30 hull #248, hmm.. close to #252. Any way I was surprised to find the only insulation for the ice box was in the bulkhead aft and the headliner of the icebox itself.
This is what I did to save those btus. I pulled the drawers out just forward of icebox/and engine hatch to expose as much of the wood veneer around the icebox as possible, made a quess as to how thick the plywood was and the negative space between it and the icebox liner by reaching through and matching up my fingers, feeling my way. There is not much space, it varies on location. between the drawer space veneer and the forward icebox liner 5/8" to 3/4" was my quesstamation.
In the drawer area I drilled 1/2" holes into veneer without popping holes in the icebox liner. affixed stopper on drill bit set to 3/8" then to 1/2" till I broke through veneer Ply. drilled several in linear pattern starting at top and working down to base. I did the same on engine compartment section next to icebox. This was a source of a lot of heat motoring in summer.
Next stop home depot with purchase of several cans of non-expansive foam insulation. Its really important to get the stuff that doesn"t expand. It can blow the icebox walls in. also got 2'-3' sections of clear poly tubing to fix to outlet of foam can, I didn't use the short tube that comes with can. I fed the longer tube into the recesses of ice box spraying foam and slowly drawing tube out to the access hole that was drilled. starting at top and working down. the whole thing took maybe 4 cans. The bottom of icebox has lots of air space but also many water and drain lines. here I shot the foam up between the icebox and hull. but stopped short of those lines. you will see them with mirror and flashlight. Here I used a common high r rating insulation to stuff up under the icebox.
ON the engine compartment panel I attached a insulated foil around filters/regulator and such to help with engine heat.
Another really easy thing I've used on icebox drain since there is no loop in drainline it goes straight to bilge, I cut out a sponge to fit the drain hole this allows the slow dispersal of water from ice down drain but keeps the cold area trapped better.
all this really helped. One block of ice, being conservative on opening the icebox will last from a friday to sunday evening short cruise. all the way from mon. to thurs, with no openings of course thats usally when I can get back to boat to check on things. albiet the ice block is the size of two softballs togeather. good luck Ben

ps. be careful not to get that foam insulation on any thing it is a royal pain to remove, ruined shirt. also wore rubber surgical like gloves

demers@sgi.com

[Ben Thomas]

Excellent article! Timely too..thanks. I am installing refrigeration now, with insualtion of the box as the next item to get done.
I was wondering if there would be any advantage to appying the foam through 1 in. plugs cut in the top surface of the counter that the ice box is mounted on? We are thinking of putting a different formica top on anyway, so the holes would be simple to reseal and glue in place. I was wondering if there is something you saw or experienced that would make shooting the foam in from the top down, starting at the bottom and working up, -more difficult to do? The foam I found at the local home improvement shop is a Urethane (waterproof), non expanding foam made by Dow-Corning I believe. This is what i was thinking of using.
You had some good ideas with the location of the holes. How about sliding a larger tube over the water hoses and fill tube for the starboard water tank, so that the foam does not attach tot he hoses, but tot he tube. Then you could fill that area to the brim with foam, yet move the hoses or change them as needed by running them in and out of the tube.

Thanks for these ideas..they helped get me off a hard spot and get a plan going.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
~~Had a freak tornado this AM, 33 deg, snow, 3in. of rain caused flooding of all rivers and bridges are underwater, hail, and a fog induced ice storm that took out trees power and closed the highway with fallen trees and power lines! We had to spend another night onboard the boat till it got cleaned up!~~~~..it's gettin' darn wierd, this weather!

I'd like to improve the efficiency of Rhapsody's ice box. One option I'm considering is using the "Super Q Ice Saver" advertised in Latitudes & Attitudes. It is a 1/2" blanket of foam covered with mylar that claims to keep food colder and make ice last longer. An 18" x 24" piece is $27.

Anyone familiar with this product, or can anyone suggest an alternative? I've even thought of putting a piece of foam rubber inside a space blanket for 1/3 the cost.

We have no problem getting block ice to the boat for a weekend, but we plan to do some longer cruises and block ice on the Chesapeake can sometimes be hard to come by.

Thanks--

Mario
s/v Rhapsody

Mario, I have a cd 30 hull #248, hmm.. close to #252. Any way I was surprised to find the only insulation for the ice box was in the bulkhead aft and the headliner of the icebox itself.
This is what I did to save those btus. I pulled the drawers out just forward of icebox/and engine hatch to expose as much of the wood veneer around the icebox as possible, made a quess as to how thick the plywood was and the negative space between it and the icebox liner by reaching through and matching up my fingers, feeling my way. There is not much space, it varies on location. between the drawer space veneer and the forward icebox liner 5/8" to 3/4" was my quesstamation.
In the drawer area I drilled 1/2" holes into veneer without popping holes in the icebox liner. affixed stopper on drill bit set to 3/8" then to 1/2" till I broke through veneer Ply. drilled several in linear pattern starting at top and working down to base. I did the same on engine compartment section next to icebox. This was a source of a lot of heat motoring in summer.
Next stop home depot with purchase of several cans of non-expansive foam insulation. Its really important to get the stuff that doesn"t expand. It can blow the icebox walls in. also got 2'-3' sections of clear poly tubing to fix to outlet of foam can, I didn't use the short tube that comes with can. I fed the longer tube into the recesses of ice box spraying foam and slowly drawing tube out to the access hole that was drilled. starting at top and working down. the whole thing took maybe 4 cans. The bottom of icebox has lots of air space but also many water and drain lines. here I shot the foam up between the icebox and hull. but stopped short of those lines. you will see them with mirror and flashlight. Here I used a common high r rating insulation to stuff up under the icebox.
ON the engine compartment panel I attached a insulated foil around filters/regulator and such to help with engine heat.
Another really easy thing I've used on icebox drain since there is no loop in drainline it goes straight to bilge, I cut out a sponge to fit the drain hole this allows the slow dispersal of water from ice down drain but keeps the cold area trapped better.
all this really helped. One block of ice, being conservative on opening the icebox will last from a friday to sunday evening short cruise. all the way from mon. to thurs, with no openings of course thats usally when I can get back to boat to check on things. albiet the ice block is the size of two softballs togeather. good luck Ben

ps. be careful not to get that foam insulation on any thing it is a royal pain to remove, ruined shirt. also wore rubber surgical like gloves

Larry, Thats right, the stuff from dow corning, very strange viscosity to work with. thinking back (that first can was a nightmare)
I would do a trial 1/2 can spray on a mock up throw away just to get a better feel of how it acts. and how much space is actually occupies after a 10 second spurt.
By far working with out the counter top in place would be much easier all the way around spraying from bottom up. In the starboard storage slide cupboards the icebox extends inside the cabinet several inchs I would have drilled this as well for access but backed off as it was getting to close to hull and its sweep down. I could just see myself drilling a hole through the hull.. thats what headed me into spraying from the bottom up into that cavity.
The sleeves around those water lines under icebox sounds like it would work. maybe better if they extended slightly beyond or butted up tight to partitions. that goop really oozes into things. Correction: oh just the formica is off the counter top. Be very carefull cause there is not a whole lot of rum (room) between the engine compartment partition and the forward partition for drawers before you hit the icebox glass. engine wall maybe 5/8" to 3/4" same on forward wall. one inch hole could put you into plywood or into glass. good luck Larry! best regards



btlandscapers@imagina.com

[Mario]

When we bought our 28' several years ago, the previous owner had cruised the Bahamas in it regularly. He had cut a series of sections of 1"-2" styrofoam which fit inside the icebox like a jigsaw puzzle. I never used it, but he swore by it! Not so glamorous, but not permanent, either.
Joe

Disclaimer: I am not mechanically gifted, so I'm opting for simplicity first before drilling and filling with foam. Also, I haven't inspected the icebox since last season, so I'm not sure what I'm up against.

Having said that, I went to Lowe's yesterday and found 1/2" foam sheets used for insulating homes, with an R value of 4. Lowe's also carries an insulating material that looks like bubblewrap inside aluminized mylar. It's on rolls, one of which is 16" x 25'. Used for attics and walls, and very thin. I'm toying with the idea of lining the icebox with one or both of those materials. Cheap and easy, and we'll see how it works.

Mario



capedory252@aol.com