Seacock replacement - brand / model recommendations?

[Kickin Bears]

Fred .. are you referring to the Perko inline flush valves?

I’ve been looking at installing one as well to run fresh water through our Volvo MD7A when back to the dock. The smallest I’ve been able to find is 1” though, and I think the raw water intake is 1/2” ID (?)

Anyone have feedback on strainers while we’re at it. I was just going to put the outer hull strainer back on, but was wondering if maybe I should be looking at an inline option and scrap the outer hull strainer cover. I’ll note that the strainer wasn’t clogged up at all where we’re at (mid-C.Bay) and it had been in the water two years

[drysuit2]

Great thread. Very helpful.

[fmueller]

Kicking,

I've looked at the Perko valve ... I'm still in the "thinking about it" stage. This one, right ?

https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwate ... %E2%84%A2/

About cooling water strainers - I think most here would agree, it's not either/or, you should always have an inline strainer - whether or not you've got a plate type on the exterior thru hull.

My experience with the external fitting I had (just like yours) was that marine growth grew in there each season (mostly little mussels) to the point where it had to be restricting the water flow somewhat, and that particular part is just about impossible to clean out if you can only dive on it.

I cleared the Groco inline strainer I have twice - just to be sure, not because there was much debris in it at all - so I'm not missing the external protection so far. This Groco strainer is so small it can just hang inches below the raw water pump, clamped inline to the supply hose, a spot where I can easily keep an eye on it.

https://www.groco.net/products/raw-wate ... 750-series

Nels Larson (the mechanic who installed my engine), said intakes lower down on the keel pull less weed because weed tends to be on the surface of the water. Sounds plausible ...

Fred

[Kickin Bears]

Super helpful Fred .. thx!

Affirmative on the valve; that’s thhe one I’ve had my eye on as well. I’m also in the “shower hinking phase”. Look fw to hearing where you net out on the inline flush

[JD-MDR]

I was considering the flush valve. then I read somewhere that it was possible for water to get into the engine and that it was not advisable. I think it had to do with too much water pressure.

[fmueller]

The problem with the flush valve (Perko) is that for my imagined intended use (drawing antifreeze into the raw water engine cooling circuit conveniently) you would still have a length of hose between the flush valve and the seacock that would not have antifreeze in it - likely prone to freezing - perhaps cracking the seacock in a real cold snap - which could lead to a sinking once temps thaw.

The Perko valve's true intended use is to flush the engine with fresh water, and a short column of salty water on the seacock side would not be a problem in above freezing weather for that specific use.

So still looking for a solution ...

F

[Kickin Bears]

Upstream flow from the valve to the Perko valve would be easily remedied by unhooking the Seacock to Perko valve at the Perko, pour anti-freeze into the line, then open the seacock and blow air through the line forcing the antifreeze through the seacock. Close the seacock before you run out of breath and the line should be clear of water, and any residual liquid will be antifreeze

[fmueller]

that's a little too complicated if I'm just trying to go for a sail and then just secure the boat in a reasonable time frame -

[Kickin Bears]

Continuing to share the through hull work. Took advantage of the warm weather to get the epoxy to kick/cure for glassing in backing blocks

I really like the Groco setup. Still need to cut the bolts and new through hull to size, but just about done with this particular project

[Kickin Bears]

Final sequence to install

[John Stone]

Kickin,
Good job. What are the backing plates made from?

There should be drain plugs on the seacockS. Just make sure they are positioned on the low side. To winterize you close them and back out the drain plug to release the water then tighten them back up.

[Kickin Bears]

Thx John. The backing blocks are the BB-series from Groco, which is made of some type of pvc type material that seems to bond super well with epoxy (almost like it soaks it up). They can be used with a sealant / adhesive instead as well, and is able to compress ever so slightly (but won’t absorb moisture or swell). They are a little pricey, but worked really well

Roger that on the drain plug. I set them up so that the handle was conveniently placed; will have to take a look at the drain plug location next time I’m out there

I did talk with a Groco rep just to get some general info; he had all sorts of good info. He mentioned using the grease nipple when winterizing. He also mentioned to make sure to either remove the secondary plug and/or slightly open the ball valve so the grease doesn’t compress air inside the valve, which can blow out the seal.

I assumed that pushing grease through the valve would push out any remaining water as well. Is this correct?

[gates_cliff]

This is somewhat off topic. I have the original seacocks on all through hulls, save for one. At some point a direct overboard head discharge was added. It has a Groco valve. Of course sailing in the CHESAPEAKE it's never used. So, I've never lubricated it. Last Spring I serviced all the seacocks but the Groco. I called the Groco office and asked about lubricating it, and I was told that they didn't need to be lubed. Does that make sense?

[gates_cliff]

Back on topic...

I need to replace the plywood backing plates and plan to either do it myself or have someone else do it this year. The older I get, and that's getting to be quite a bit, I don't relish the idea of contorting myself down into the cockpit lockers. I talked to one guy about doing the job, and he opined that the originals,had lasted nearly 40 years why not just use marine plywood again. I had planned to reuse original seacocks.

Thoughts and/or recommendations appreciated.

[jbenagh]

Cliff,
it's almost no more work to use 1/4in G10, just epoxy vs. sealant. With 1/4 in you can use shorter, cheaper Groco thru-hulls and not have to cut down longer ones (I learned the hard way). Sealants can fail but glass/epoxy will not.
Jeff