Cape Dory Traveler Question

pvisich · Post by **pvisich** » Oct 4th, '20, 06:18

On my CD 30 MK2 (1989) traveler I don't have the ability to move it side to side from the cockpit and wondered if there was a way to adapt the existing traveler so that I could have a line on both sides that come back to the cockpit. Appreciate any advice and hope everyone is staying safe and healthy. Thanks in advance. Paul

kerrydeare · Post by **kerrydeare** » Oct 4th, '20, 11:30

pvisich wrote:On my CD 30 MK2 (1989) traveler I don't have the ability to move it side to side from the cockpit and wondered if there was a way to adapt the existing traveler so that I could have a line on both sides that come back to the cockpit. Appreciate any advice and hope everyone is staying safe and healthy. Thanks in advance. Paul

Can you post pictures of the existing setup? Would help very much.

ghockaday · Post by **ghockaday** » Oct 4th, '20, 17:10

My opinion and experience:

garhauer marine will make a complete traveler for you at a good price. There stuff is heavy duty, but you have a heavy boat anyway and not as racy looking as the others.

Harken and others have track you can bend or they bend and convert to theirs, but they do not recommend the bend needed. Folks have done it and said they have had no issues.

Someone, I think on here just added the controls to the end of what they had and left it there.

We opted to move ours behind the TILLER and really like it there. Got the stuff off of the cabin top and we have a modern traveler in the cockpit. Just my wife and I 99 percent of the time. If you take large crowds it would probably be in the way.

pvisich · Post by **pvisich** » Oct 5th, '20, 15:48

Would be interesting to see how they added controls to the end of the traveler, would think that would be the most affordable way to do it. Thanks for the tips!

ghockaday · Post by **ghockaday** » Oct 5th, '20, 16:05

pvisich wrote:Would be interesting to see how they added controls to the end of the traveler, would think that would be the most affordable way to do it. Thanks for the tips!

I think he installed a couple of blocks of teak and attached blocks to it, and added blocks to the traveler car. Those original cars are getting very old. and I have read stories of them going flying in a tack or jib which is not good.

I caught the traveler and track on sale at the defender spring sail. I have the quote from grhauer somewhere. I think it was around 700, the way I went was around 700 so the cheapest way would be a couple of blocks added to what you have. There is hours of reading on here about that very topic. Dennis

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Oct 7th, '20, 09:53

Here's what I did on my CD30. I added a new more robust car, two double blocks, six turning blocks and the two lines. I'm very happy with it.

traveler.jpg

traveler1.jpg

kerrydeare · Post by **kerrydeare** » Oct 7th, '20, 12:54

Keith wrote:Here's what I did on my CD30. I added a new more robust car, two double blocks, six turning blocks and the two lines. I'm very happy with it ...

From the pictures I can see why you would be very happy with it. Excellent job, and one that indicates you are not parting with this vessel any time soon. Great work.

Armond

Jim Walsh · Post by **Jim Walsh** » Oct 7th, '20, 15:44

Keith wrote:Here's what I did on my CD30. I added a new more robust car, two double blocks, six turning blocks and the two lines. I'm very happy with it.
traveler.jpg
traveler1.jpg

Any details on the car you used? I have an original car which is fine at the moment. I’m presuming you still have the original track.

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Oct 7th, '20, 16:14

Thanks Armond, I've had MOONDANCE for 8 years and have no plans to make a change.

PS I forgot to mention that I added 2 cam-cleats as well. I think that the total was around $300-250.

Keith

ghockaday · Post by **ghockaday** » Oct 8th, '20, 07:10

ghockaday wrote:My opinion and experience:

garhauer marine will make a complete traveler for you at a good price. There stuff is heavy duty, but you have a heavy boat anyway and not as racy looking as the others.

Harken and others have track you can bend or they bend and convert to theirs, but they do not recommend the bend needed. Folks have done it and said they have had no issues.

Someone, I think on here just added the controls to the end of what they had and left it there.

We opted to move ours behind the TILLER and really like it there. Got the stuff off of the cabin top and we have a modern traveler in the cockpit. Just my wife and I 99 percent of the time. If you take large crowds it would probably be in the way.

This is what we did, two people can sit behind it but if you take more people with you, between the tiller and the traveler you are restricted in movement. My wife loves it as she can control the amount that we heel. I like it because it is easier for me to adjust also. The teak is a work in progress.

TRAVELER.jpg

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Oct 8th, '20, 10:29

Hi Jim,

I got everything from Ronstan. They are in Portsmouth RI 401 293 0539. I talked to the tech on the phone and told him what I wanted to do and he talked me through what I needed. If I remember correctly I sent him a picture of my traveler. It was a very professional and straight forward experience. I installed the system in 2016 and it has worked flawlessly for 5 years.

The car is Ronstan part number RC61914 (series 19 I-beam car). It is much more robust than the original factory car and has the attach points for the two side blocks and of course the main sheet block on top.

Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

Keith

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