thru-hull removal

[Stan W]

I serviced the cockpit drain, galley sink drain and engine intake seacocks on my '79 CD 28 today.

Unfortunately, I could not service my head intake seacock because there was not enough room between the seacock and the bulkhead to remove the plug. I think somebody must have reinstalled it 180 degrees out of position. To move it, I will need to remove or at least loosen the thru-hull. The thru-hull has two "ears" inside it. What is the proper tool to engage those "ears" and where can I get one?

Also, my head discharge has a bronze ball valve seacock. Is this original or is it a replacement? How do you service a ball valve? This one is very stiff and does not quite go through its full range of motion.

Thanks.



smwheatley@capecod.net

[Leo MacDonald CD30K]

I serviced the cockpit drain, galley sink drain and engine intake seacocks on my '79 CD 28 today.
Unfortunately, I could not service my head intake seacock because there was not enough room between the seacock and the bulkhead to remove the plug. I think somebody must have reinstalled it 180 degrees out of position. To move it, I will need to remove or at least loosen the thru-hull. The thru-hull has two "ears" inside it. What is the proper tool to engage those "ears" and where can I get one?
Also, my head discharge has a bronze ball valve seacock. Is this original or is it a replacement? How do you service a ball valve? This one is very stiff and does not quite go through its full range of motion.
Thanks.

Hi Stan,

The seacock is threaded onto the inboard side of the thru-hull. When installing or removing the thru-hull / seacock arrangement use a special thru-hull tool ('wrench') turn the thru-hull while the seacock is bolted to the hull. I purchased my "Thru-Hull special wrench" from a local Marine RETAILER! ($$$) Sort of ridged cone shape and that fits into and around the interior raised splines (can't use the better word) on the thru-hull. If you make it out of bar stock do it well

On installation remember;
* 3M 4200 the thru-hull to hull surfaces & thru-hull threads and the seacock to hull surfaces.
* 3M 5200 on the Backing board.
The 5200 is 'forever'!! The 4200 will come off with effort if you EVER want to replace the item again.

I believe the 3/4-inch Spartan bronze Seacock (with a 'plug') was standard by then. (My boat, a 1977 CD30 ketch, has all Spartan bronze Seacocks.) A ball valve sounds like an aftermarket replacement. But you also mentioned a 'plug'??? - you may have a standard seacock installed to close to the bulkhead.

Let us know how much you enjoy this project

Fair Winds,
Leo MacDonald
Heather Ann CD30K #57



macdore@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

I removed my galley sink seacock this past weekend, in preparation for installing an Isotherm refrigeration system. To remove the 1 1/2 in. seacocks, there is a nice tool made for removing the wire baskets of your bathroom sink, which will work perfectly here..calle d "Spud Wrench" or "Sink Wrench" depending on where you are.
This wrench is simply placed into the seacock opening, the two teeth engaged, and the wrench turned CCW to remove the thru-hull. Next, there are two screws that penetrate into the backing plate for the seacock, and to which are attached two nuts and washers. Remove these, and the seacock will be free to be removed.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I serviced the cockpit drain, galley sink drain and engine intake seacocks on my '79 CD 28 today.

Unfortunately, I could not service my head intake seacock because there was not enough room between the seacock and the bulkhead to remove the plug. I think somebody must have reinstalled it 180 degrees out of position. To move it, I will need to remove or at least loosen the thru-hull. The thru-hull has two "ears" inside it. What is the proper tool to engage those "ears" and where can I get one?

Also, my head discharge has a bronze ball valve seacock. Is this original or is it a replacement? How do you service a ball valve? This one is very stiff and does not quite go through its full range of motion.

Thanks.

demers@sgi.com

[Bill]

Larry

I just removed the seacock/thru hull in my head and in doing so I messed up the bronze screws. I know where to get new ones, and I know about using dissimiliar metals, but in this case would it be advisable (sp)use stainless bolts?

Also, do these wrenchs come in smaller sizes for the 3/4" thru hulls?

Thanks
Bill



cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Larry DeMers]

Bill,

I did not see a smaller size. THe unit I bought has two tools on it at either end, and a square shaft section. It was $6.00 at Menards (Home Improvement Store). I looked around for a complete kit, as I was not certain the size I would need. The 1 1/4 size was perfect, however why not try to get around it for free? Mine were not screwed on all that tightly. I used an exacto knife to cut through the bottom paint that lines the edge margin of the seacocks thru hull flared outside end. Then try using a large flat-bladed screwdriver and tap the ears a few times in rotation...so that the thruh-hull rotates CCW. That itself may be plenty to get it broken free and the job accomplished. Otherwise a flat bar with a nip out of it's flat end may work ok too.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Larry

I just removed the seacock/thru hull in my head and in doing so I messed up the bronze screws. I know where to get new ones, and I know about using dissimiliar metals, but in this case would it be advisable (sp)use stainless bolts?

Also, do these wrenchs come in smaller sizes for the 3/4" thru hulls?

Thanks
Bill

demers@sgi.com

[Larry DeMers]

Bill,

I did not see a smaller size. THe unit I bought has two tools on it at either end, and a square shaft section. It was $6.00 at Menards (Home Improvement Store). I looked around for a complete kit, as I was not certain the size I would need. The 1 1/4 size was perfect, however why not try to get around it for free? Mine were not screwed on all that tightly. I used an exacto knife to cut through the bottom paint that lines the edge margin of the seacocks thru hull flared outside end. Then try using a large flat-bladed screwdriver and tap the ears a few times in rotation...so that the thruh-hull rotates CCW. That itself may be plenty to get it broken free and the job accomplished. Otherwise a flat bar with a nip out of it's flat end may work ok too.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Larry

I just removed the seacock/thru hull in my head and in doing so I messed up the bronze screws. I know where to get new ones, and I know about using dissimiliar metals, but in this case would it be advisable (sp)use stainless bolts?

Also, do these wrenchs come in smaller sizes for the 3/4" thru hulls?

Thanks
Bill

demers@sgi.com

[Bob Luby]

I have to admit it- my seacocks have never been serviced! This has always bothered me. Well now I'll give it a try.

What is the sequence in removing the seacock?
Is it the following?

1. Examine outside of thru-hulls. Remove any screws visible from the outside of the hull.

2, Use spud wrench to remove outer portion of seacock. Turn outer portion of thru-hull CCW to remove it.

3. Remove nuts holding flanges of seacock to backing plate. Pull off body of seacock.

4. Disassemble seacock (if you can.) Lubricate. etc.

5. Reassemble using 3M 4200 on thru-hull and backing plate.

Who knows, I may make the owners of Spartan Marine wealthy!



Rluby@aol.com

[Stan W]

Couldn't tell if your post was tongue-in-cheek but ordinarily you do not have to remove the seacock from the thru-hull to service. Just remove the plug from the seacock. If your seacocks move freely now, this should be easy. If your seacocks are frozen open or closed, it may be harder. I only asked about removing the thru-hull because somebody installed one of my seacocks 180 degrees out of position.



smwheatley@capecod.net

[Bob Luby]

Couldn't tell if your post was tongue-in-cheek but ordinarily you do not have to remove the seacock from the thru-hull to service. Just remove the plug from the seacock. If your seacocks move freely now, this should be easy. If your seacocks are frozen open or closed, it may be harder. I only asked about removing the thru-hull because somebody installed one of my seacocks 180 degrees out of position.

My post was entirely serious. Assuming that at least half the screws one attempts to loosen will prove recalcitrant, I wanted to know what the worst case scenarion would be. Besides, some of my seacocks are almost inaccessible - The port cockpit drain comes to mind, nestled under the alternator, The sink drain - nestled under the sink.

You get the idea.



Rluby@aol.com

[Bill]

Hi Bob

You dont need to remove any screws Bob. Just tak the two nuts off of the tapered plug, pop them out, lap them, clean them, grease them and put them back in.

I didnt play close enough attention when I did the first one and screwed it up. After that they all went well. Although it is a labor that would be better performed by a VERY small person, its not difficult. Just make sure that everything mates up when you re-assemble the seacock.

Fair Winds
Bill

Couldn't tell if your post was tongue-in-cheek but ordinarily you do not have to remove the seacock from the thru-hull to service. Just remove the plug from the seacock. If your seacocks move freely now, this should be easy. If your seacocks are frozen open or closed, it may be harder. I only asked about removing the thru-hull because somebody installed one of my seacocks 180 degrees out of position.

My post was entirely serious. Assuming that at least half the screws one attempts to loosen will prove recalcitrant, I wanted to know what the worst case scenarion would be. Besides, some of my seacocks are almost inaccessible - The port cockpit drain comes to mind, nestled under the alternator, The sink drain - nestled under the sink.

You get the idea.

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Bob,

Bill and the others are correct. You don't need to remove the thru-hull fittings from the hull to service the seacocks.

The thru-hull and the seacock are two separate items. The seacock is attached to the thru-hull. You don't really remove the seacock either, just the tapered plug.

The nut (or nuts, our Spartan seacocks have two nuts) that needs to be removed is located on the opposite side of the plug from the handle. The end of the plug is tapered and threaded. The nut(s) attach to the threads at the end of the plug. Once you remove the nuts, the plug (with handle attached) should slip right out. Because of the taper, you can only pull it out from the handle side. Well, yours haven't been serviced for awhile so they may not slip right out. Once they're out, follow Bill's routine: lap, clean, grease, re-install. Make sure to clean both the plug and the inside of the seacock where you removed the plug.

Hope you're a pretty good contortionist.


catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Hi Bob

You dont need to remove any screws Bob. Just tak the two nuts off of the tapered plug, pop them out, lap them, clean them, grease them and put them back in.

I didnt play close enough attention when I did the first one and screwed it up. After that they all went well. Although it is a labor that would be better performed by a VERY small person, its not difficult. Just make sure that everything mates up when you re-assemble the seacock.

Fair Winds
Bill

Couldn't tell if your post was tongue-in-cheek but ordinarily you do not have to remove the seacock from the thru-hull to service. Just remove the plug from the seacock. If your seacocks move freely now, this should be easy. If your seacocks are frozen open or closed, it may be harder. I only asked about removing the thru-hull because somebody installed one of my seacocks 180 degrees out of position.

My post was entirely serious. Assuming that at least half the screws one attempts to loosen will prove recalcitrant, I wanted to know what the worst case scenarion would be. Besides, some of my seacocks are almost inaccessible - The port cockpit drain comes to mind, nestled under the alternator, The sink drain - nestled under the sink.

You get the idea.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Bob Luby]

Thanks, Folks, I'll look this weekend and see how it goes.

Great Board!

See some of you at the rendevous in July!



Rluby@aol.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Since we're on the subject of thru-hulls, I thought I might provide you with a helpful website. BoatUS offers a "how-to" area called "<a href="http://www.boatus.com/howto/howto_tech.htm">BoatTech Guides</a>" on their website. You might want to bookmark it.

One of the many articles available on the site is "<a href="http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/07.htm">Installing a Seacock</a>". There's a nice picture of a thru-hull being removed in addition to the instructions.

Hope this helps.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

I serviced the cockpit drain, galley sink drain and engine intake seacocks on my '79 CD 28 today.

Unfortunately, I could not service my head intake seacock because there was not enough room between the seacock and the bulkhead to remove the plug. I think somebody must have reinstalled it 180 degrees out of position. To move it, I will need to remove or at least loosen the thru-hull. The thru-hull has two "ears" inside it. What is the proper tool to engage those "ears" and where can I get one?

Also, my head discharge has a bronze ball valve seacock. Is this original or is it a replacement? How do you service a ball valve? This one is very stiff and does not quite go through its full range of motion.

Thanks.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com