Need new outboard for 1978 Cape Dory 25

[rock314]

My 9.9 Johnson Sailmaster long shaft is not dependable and I'd like to replace it with a 4 stroke ideally. Can anyone recommend an outboard that will fit into the stern well?

[mgphl52]

On my last CD25, I replaced the (extremely) overweight 9.9 with a Tohatsu 6. Because it was so much lighter, I kept it on the cabin sole unless I really, really had to use it. The slip I was in allowed me to usually sail in and out, if I was just a bit patient.

[Terry]

Ditto. Tohatsu Sailpro. No, it didn't fit Cassandra. Lid doesn't close all the way. Various mods available that can be done. Some easily. Some not.

[MHBsailor]

Terry, did your Tohatsu have an integral gas tank or not? JD

[bgephart]

After many years with OMC 2 strokes 9.9 and 6 hp, I moved to a Tohatsu Sailpro 6 hp 4 stroke, and happy with it. I did chisel out about a 1 1/2 inch notch in the motor mount board so the lid would close - simple and no problems after 4 years.

[Terry]

Terry, did your Tohatsu have an integral gas tank or not? JD

No, it doesn't have the internal tank. As fir fitting, others (like bgephart mentions) have cut the support piece to lower the motor. I didn't want to do that, as the long shaft is long enough, I think, and I am concerned with weakening the support piece. The other fitment issue I have is the way the fuel line protrudes straight. It keeps me from having the drop boards in place. It needs an elbow, which I'm not sure can be installed.

All the best, Terry

[Rockymtndaze]

I have replaced my older long shaft 6 hp 4 stroke mercury outboard with a new compact long shaft 9.9 hp 4 stroke mercury outboard. I raised the engine well cover by fitting a teak 2 inch block under each rear hinge. This provided sufficient clearance height to enable the cover to close over the slightly larger outboard. I also found it necessary to slightly enlarge the circular inspection hole in the rear of the engine well to provide sufficient clearance for the rear of the new outboard, when mounted on the existing wood engine mount. This, in turn, required a little fiberglass work to fabricate a liner for the enlarged recess to retain watertight integrity. Lastly, I replaced the slide out wood cover in the rear of the cockpit with a soft rubber square of the same thickness as the original wood. This avoids the fuel line having to curve abruptly when fitted to the front of the motor. All of the above required a weekend to accomplish. Given the extremely strong tidal currents encountered in navigating the very narrow river exit channel from my mooring, which my previous outboard was frequently unable to make any headway against, the additional power provided by the new engine is well worth the installation effort required.

[Terry]

I raised the engine well cover by fitting a teak 2 inch block under each rear hinge..

I'd thought of that, too, as a potential remedy for closing the cover.

The modified section replacing the teak drop boards sounds good. That's a pretty easy mod. I like that.

With the tohatsu I have enough aft clearance, which would have been a major headache for me to modify.

Q: There is still a gap between the cover and the deck, correct? Is that a problem?

[Rockymtndaze]

Yes, raising the lid 2 inches results in a virtually unnoticeable gap at the rear lid edge (between the hinges) and on each side. It actually improves the cooling airflow to the motor and obviates any need to lift the lid for this purpose. I had been concerned that the gap caused by raising the lid would increase the noise level of running the motor, but I find the new outboard is still very much quieter than my original. I cut the soft rubber square from the thick Black soft rubber kneeling pads used by gardeners. It allows the fuel line to flex and bend without any pressure - but still presents a smooth solid appearance when viewed from the cockpit. Not as nice as the varnished teak original, but still presentable and practical.

[Terry]

Yes, raising the lid 2 inches. . . actually improves the cooling airflow. . . thick Black soft rubber kneeling pads used by gardeners. It allows the fuel line to flex. . .

Thanks. I'm going to tackle adding a couple blocks to raise the cover. Closed-cell foam pad sounds good. I have a scrap laying around that's blue, should look good.

Have a great week! Terry