Looking to buy a CD 30 Cutter (maybe)

[TyTwo]

Hi,

After years away from Cape Dories, I'm considering purchasing a 30 Cutter. There are several for sale in similar condition near me (Mass) listed at or about $20K.

I've looked at one and will be looking at two others today.

Can anyone give me a rundown of what to look for, both good and bad?

One of the boats' owners has removed the staysail/stay and only uses a jib. Thoughts on this approach? He has the equipment to revert, but I'm curious what you all think.

Any insight is appreciated,

Thanks,

Eric Woodman

[moctrams]

The biggest problem that I found with my 1982 CD cutter was the decks where manufacturer placed the winches and anywhere they drilled into deck to attach things. Cost me $5000 to fix problems and repaint deck.

[TyTwo]

Thanks. I assume you mean leaks in those spots>?

[Joe Mac Phee]

Eric,

If you like the 30 cutter, consider the rare 30 ketch. The ketch is a versatile rig allowing many variations for sail configurations for wind conditions. Very handy for short handed sailing.

My 30 ketch is listed on this web site and lies at Bristol RI. Search for "30 ketch" to find the listing.

Joe Mac Phee

[moctrams]

Not leaks. Soft decks including cockpit.

[mgphl52]

Here's a CD30 ketch in Rhode Island... http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=36503
It's been "on the list" for quite awhile. Might be worthy of a look?

[Carl Thunberg]

Here are a few miscellaneous things to look for in no particular order:

Never fall in love with a boat until you own it. Until then, it's a business transaction and you need to protect your investment. There is plenty of time to fall in love after you own it.

The bracket that holds the steering quadrant sheaves is made of tubular steel. It's located under the cockpit sole in a place that is difficult to inspect. You need to go in through the seat locker to inspect it. The tubular steel can rust and go undetected for a long time until it breaks without warning. This has happened to a number of CD30s including my former CD30. It is worth inspecting and don't be afraid to hit it hard with a hammer. A welder can fabricate a new bracket inexpensively. This should not be a deal-breaker.

The Volvo MD7A (or is it B?) is a high quality engine, but they are getting old and they are difficult to find parts for. If it runs well, then there's no compelling reason to re-power. If you plan to keep the boat for long time, then a re-power is probably going to be required at some point.

The lav sink across from the head is practically useless. If you are good at cabinetry, consider converting it to a hanging locker or other storage.

This is strictly personal preference, but I don't like worm gear steering like the early CD30s had. I have sailed a CD30 with worm gear steering and I found it difficult to tell whether the helm was balanced.

The electric bilge pump discharge is located on the starboard side and fairly close to the water line. Under the right conditions on a port tack the bilge pump discharge can become submerged. If the electric bilge pump happens to kick on at that time, water can siphon into the boat. There is an easy fix. Turn the electric bilge pump off while under sail, and turn it back on when you are safely at anchor.

The CD30c is a remarkably fast boat. I can't speak to the sloop conversion other than Carl Alberg designed it as a cutter, and the boat sails well that way. I hope some of these comments don't scare you away from the CD30c. It really is a great boat.