"Leoma" update windvane lines

[JD-MDR]

I'll try to explain and show the photos of what I've come up with. There was no model form Cape Horn windvane for the worm drive steering so I've had quite a challenge getting the lines to work. Oh, there was one model but he had the lever arm outside the transom I chose to use a quadrant and keep as much as possible inside the lazerette. Well I had the gear working OK. I didn't have a quick easy way to engage and disengage. I splices eyes on the control line and hooked them over the pins on the drum at the steering shaft (first photo). I had a hard time splicing that small 1/4" stuff. They go back to the quadrant thru turning blocks like normal. I made the lines slack enough so I can easily hook or unhook the control lines at the drum. I made this contraption (second photo) form leftover parts so now I can snug the control lines and cleat them. I'll try it out next week when I'm satisfied with everything I will glass all the turning blocks etc. in place. Now I just stuck them in place with Bondo. I removed the blocks that I Bondoed in the wrong place a few months ago and that stuff is very strong. The bond didn't break The plywood split at he laminates.

[JD-MDR]

Obviously that thing didn't work. I need to put the cam cleat in line. The only place is under the lid but it would be upside down. I made these brackets so the cleat could be right side up. I tried it out today and It seems to work. The bracket swung a little I should put another screw. The second line is stationary so doesn't need blocks or even fairleads. It is just for tensioning the control lines that go from the quadrant to the wheel drum but I will improve as I get the kinks out. I really think it would be a big improvement if I were to send my worm gear to be remachined. I think am getting some extra friction because there is some play in the parts.

[John Stone]

Good ideas. Keep at it. You’re getting it sorted out.

As you use it and narrow down how to make it work, don’t forget about adjusting the sensitivity control line on the vane. It’s the little shock cord near the course adjustment bezel just below the air-blade. If left too lose the boat wanders and will over correct and you might think it’s still a problem with your installation. I tend to adjust it so the air blade meets resistance about 20-30° from vertical. I mention that as a starting point as you refine what works for your boat in various conditions etc.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks. Ive been playing with that. For some reason it broke yesterday. I think I have another piece