I disassembled seacock & upon re assembley I found that the "position washer", does not fit "exactly". The slotted washer does not slide easily over the matching slot on the end of the plug.
Should the washer match up up exactly so that there is no gap between the washer and the "body". Will it press itself to aliginment or should I "open" it up a bit with emrory paper?
Michael Heintz
s/v/ Machts Nichts CD 30 MK II
mzenith@aol.com
Seacock maintenence
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ken Coit
Re: Seacock maintenence
Michael,
It sounds to me as if you haven't yet put the flange nut and jam nut on? Is that the case? If so, then you will find that when you do, the barrel will distribute the grease as it pulls into the housing; then the position washer will fit snugly to the barrel as it should. The position washer has to rest against the housing in order to pull the barrel into place and keep it there. Maybe you have too much grease on the barrel, that would keep it from seating properly and not allow the position washer to engage the flat on the barrel. It doesn't take much grease to fill the space between the barrel and the housing.
When I assembled my extra seacocks, I did put a little grease on the housing where the position washer seats in order to minimize the friction. They work very smoothly.
Try it again, I think you will find that the barrel will pull into the housing so that the position washer engages it properly.
Ken Coit
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
parfait@nc.rr.com
It sounds to me as if you haven't yet put the flange nut and jam nut on? Is that the case? If so, then you will find that when you do, the barrel will distribute the grease as it pulls into the housing; then the position washer will fit snugly to the barrel as it should. The position washer has to rest against the housing in order to pull the barrel into place and keep it there. Maybe you have too much grease on the barrel, that would keep it from seating properly and not allow the position washer to engage the flat on the barrel. It doesn't take much grease to fill the space between the barrel and the housing.
When I assembled my extra seacocks, I did put a little grease on the housing where the position washer seats in order to minimize the friction. They work very smoothly.
Try it again, I think you will find that the barrel will pull into the housing so that the position washer engages it properly.
Ken Coit
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC
Michael Heintz wrote: I disassembled seacock & upon re assembley I found that the "position washer", does not fit "exactly". The slotted washer does not slide easily over the matching slot on the end of the plug.
Should the washer match up up exactly so that there is no gap between the washer and the "body". Will it press itself to aliginment or should I "open" it up a bit with emrory paper?
Michael Heintz
s/v/ Machts Nichts CD 30 MK II
parfait@nc.rr.com
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Agree with Ken....
Michael,
When I did Hanaleis' seacocks last Saturday, I noticed just what you describe. The limit washers are a little difficult to position, particularly if there is too much grease on the barrel or in the body when you re-assemble. Remember, the tab on the washer lines up with the valve handle. I had to hold the washer in place as I tightened the first(flanged)nut into place. I also grease the limit washer and both nuts, just to eliminate friction and to make taking it apart next time a little easier.
By the way, that Morey's grease seems to be the thing to use! See earlier strings if you want to know exactly what it is and where to get it.
Hanalei goes in in three days, and the Captain will again be on full pay !!!
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
When I did Hanaleis' seacocks last Saturday, I noticed just what you describe. The limit washers are a little difficult to position, particularly if there is too much grease on the barrel or in the body when you re-assemble. Remember, the tab on the washer lines up with the valve handle. I had to hold the washer in place as I tightened the first(flanged)nut into place. I also grease the limit washer and both nuts, just to eliminate friction and to make taking it apart next time a little easier.
By the way, that Morey's grease seems to be the thing to use! See earlier strings if you want to know exactly what it is and where to get it.
Hanalei goes in in three days, and the Captain will again be on full pay !!!
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
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Michael Heintz
Re: Agree with Ken....
So it is safe to assume that even though the position washer ( when un- assembled) does not fit the slotted end of barrel.... that it will press itself to the barrel and slide over the "slot" and bring home the whole assembly?D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Dave & Ken,
Got lucky.... previous owner had about 1/2 a jar of "original" Sparten Grease... lucky me......I wil reatempt the seacocks later today when it warms up.
Michael Heintz
s/v Machats Nichts
gettin ready to go in !!!!!!
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bill
Re: Agree with Ken....
Hello to All
I just completed this task for the first time and I messed up one of the seacocks. I am not too sure that the ones I didnt mess up are "seated" correctly. I bought a new seacock from Spartan and the plug is TOTALLY pulled into the barrell. It is even recessed into the barrell. The ones I just lubed, protrude (on the handle end) about 1/8" or less and I am wondering if I have them seated completely. If I tighten the two nuts, you cant even move the handle.
Any comments of suggestion on how to make a determination????
Thanks
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
I just completed this task for the first time and I messed up one of the seacocks. I am not too sure that the ones I didnt mess up are "seated" correctly. I bought a new seacock from Spartan and the plug is TOTALLY pulled into the barrell. It is even recessed into the barrell. The ones I just lubed, protrude (on the handle end) about 1/8" or less and I am wondering if I have them seated completely. If I tighten the two nuts, you cant even move the handle.
Any comments of suggestion on how to make a determination????
Thanks
Bill
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Michael,
When I did Hanaleis' seacocks last Saturday, I noticed just what you describe. The limit washers are a little difficult to position, particularly if there is too much grease on the barrel or in the body when you re-assemble. Remember, the tab on the washer lines up with the valve handle. I had to hold the washer in place as I tightened the first(flanged)nut into place. I also grease the limit washer and both nuts, just to eliminate friction and to make taking it apart next time a little easier.
By the way, that Morey's grease seems to be the thing to use! See earlier strings if you want to know exactly what it is and where to get it.
Hanalei goes in in three days, and the Captain will again be on full pay !!!
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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Russell
I used Spartan's grease last haulout. I don't think it's tha
It's not that viscous, squeezes out easily, frequently requires adjustment to prevent trickles, and I suspect it gets washed away. This time, I'm going to try Morey's red. Spartan sells a "service kit," which turns out to be a jar of this grease and a cheap, open end wrench. The price is out of line for the contents.
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: I wouldn't use the Spartan stuff...
Michael,
If I were you, I'd use the Moreys' grease. You CAN get it at NAPA. See the other links for NAPA number and Moreys' number. If they don't have it on the shelf, they can probably get it in a day or so.
I just don't like doing the job in the first place, so if the Moreys' means I only have to do it every other year, that's great.
D. Stump
If I were you, I'd use the Moreys' grease. You CAN get it at NAPA. See the other links for NAPA number and Moreys' number. If they don't have it on the shelf, they can probably get it in a day or so.
I just don't like doing the job in the first place, so if the Moreys' means I only have to do it every other year, that's great.
D. Stump
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Matt Cawthorne
Adjusting seacocks
Bill,
The barrel does not have to pull all the way into the housing and you should not try and make it do so unless it was that way when you disassembled it. The fact that the one from Spartan does indicates that they do not work to super tight tolerances. That is why you have to buy the seacock housing and barrel as a matched set. It keeps the prices down. Not one of my seacock barrels pulls all the way into the housing. When installed in the housing the washer does not have to mate all the way against the face of the barrel. The washer does two things. Firstly it keeps the nut from experiencing torque due to friction and the rotary motion from spinning the nut off. Secondly it acts as a stop so that you can tell that the seacock is closed by pushing it to the stop and do not need to look at it. When the barrel is out of the housing the washer should slip down easily over the key all the way to the end of the barrel. When you assemble the seacock you need to make certain that the key in the end of the barrel mates with the slot in the washer. If it does not you will loose the bennefit of having the washer and it can keep the nuts from pulling the barrel into the correct position. You should not be able to make the washer seat all the way against the barrel when assembled in the housing. If you do the seacock is shot and needs replacement because the load from the nut will go directly into the barrel and not into pulling the barrel into the housing. Do not tighten the nut so tight that the seacock is hard to operate. If you have, take it apart, re-grease and assemble again with less torque. There was a recent thread on adjusting seacocks. It is worth looking at. My preference is to keep the seacocks on the loose side, so that they can be operated by one finger. The exception is that The engine seacock requires a second finger to operate so that vibration will not close it. I have had excellent experience with Spartan grease, but then again I have lapped most of the seacocks in the boat so that the barrel is a very good fit with the housing. I have never had a drip of any kind using the Spartan grease. That said, I am interested in giving Morey's grease a try next season. A thicker grease sounds like it would be a better seal.
Be gentle with the Spartan seacocks. They are tough, but if properly maintained, should never need a heavy hand. If you are wrestling with them ask more questions.
Good luck.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
The barrel does not have to pull all the way into the housing and you should not try and make it do so unless it was that way when you disassembled it. The fact that the one from Spartan does indicates that they do not work to super tight tolerances. That is why you have to buy the seacock housing and barrel as a matched set. It keeps the prices down. Not one of my seacock barrels pulls all the way into the housing. When installed in the housing the washer does not have to mate all the way against the face of the barrel. The washer does two things. Firstly it keeps the nut from experiencing torque due to friction and the rotary motion from spinning the nut off. Secondly it acts as a stop so that you can tell that the seacock is closed by pushing it to the stop and do not need to look at it. When the barrel is out of the housing the washer should slip down easily over the key all the way to the end of the barrel. When you assemble the seacock you need to make certain that the key in the end of the barrel mates with the slot in the washer. If it does not you will loose the bennefit of having the washer and it can keep the nuts from pulling the barrel into the correct position. You should not be able to make the washer seat all the way against the barrel when assembled in the housing. If you do the seacock is shot and needs replacement because the load from the nut will go directly into the barrel and not into pulling the barrel into the housing. Do not tighten the nut so tight that the seacock is hard to operate. If you have, take it apart, re-grease and assemble again with less torque. There was a recent thread on adjusting seacocks. It is worth looking at. My preference is to keep the seacocks on the loose side, so that they can be operated by one finger. The exception is that The engine seacock requires a second finger to operate so that vibration will not close it. I have had excellent experience with Spartan grease, but then again I have lapped most of the seacocks in the boat so that the barrel is a very good fit with the housing. I have never had a drip of any kind using the Spartan grease. That said, I am interested in giving Morey's grease a try next season. A thicker grease sounds like it would be a better seal.
Be gentle with the Spartan seacocks. They are tough, but if properly maintained, should never need a heavy hand. If you are wrestling with them ask more questions.
Good luck.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Bill
Re: Adjusting seacocks
Thanks Matt
You mentioned a detail that was the cause of my messing up one of my seacocks.
What a great site and thanks to all for your comments.
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
You mentioned a detail that was the cause of my messing up one of my seacocks.
That is exactly what I didnt do and as a result I tore the "shoulder" off of the plug! Hench replacing the seacock and lesson learned...Matt Cawthorne wrote: Matt wrote
When you assemble the seacock you need to make certain that the
key in the end of the barrel mates with the slot in the washer.
What a great site and thanks to all for your comments.
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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Bill
Re: I wouldn't use the Spartan stuff...
Hi Captain
Well, I talked with the NAPA people here (Oklahoma) and while they carry some Moreys' products the informed me that they CANNOT order the stuff...
I will try and acquire some this summer while attending the NE Fleet activities.
Bill
Captain Commanding
Rhapsody on the Hard :<( !!!
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
Well, I talked with the NAPA people here (Oklahoma) and while they carry some Moreys' products the informed me that they CANNOT order the stuff...
I will try and acquire some this summer while attending the NE Fleet activities.
Bill
Captain Commanding
Rhapsody on the Hard :<( !!!
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Michael,
If I were you, I'd use the Moreys' grease. You CAN get it at NAPA. See the other links for NAPA number and Moreys' number. If they don't have it on the shelf, they can probably get it in a day or so.
I just don't like doing the job in the first place, so if the Moreys' means I only have to do it every other year, that's great.
D. Stump
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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Michael Heintz
Confusion on washer and key ?????
Matt:
When I have seacock un assembled in hand.... the position washer does not slid freely over the Keyed end of the barrel. It will butt up to it, and under pressure from tighting will "hold" at the slot. Should it slide over the key when installed oor just sit at the end?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
mzenith@aol.com
When I have seacock un assembled in hand.... the position washer does not slid freely over the Keyed end of the barrel. It will butt up to it, and under pressure from tighting will "hold" at the slot. Should it slide over the key when installed oor just sit at the end?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
mzenith@aol.com
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bill
Re: Confusion on washer and key ?????
Michael
Failure (on my part) to get the position washer on the "keyed end of the barrel" sufficiently was the error I made when re-assemblying the seacock. The bronze is very soft and the barrel turned inside of the position washer chewing off the corners of the "key".
Hope this helps.
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
Failure (on my part) to get the position washer on the "keyed end of the barrel" sufficiently was the error I made when re-assemblying the seacock. The bronze is very soft and the barrel turned inside of the position washer chewing off the corners of the "key".
Hope this helps.
Bill
Michael Heintz wrote: Matt:
When I have seacock un assembled in hand.... the position washer does not slid freely over the Keyed end of the barrel. It will butt up to it, and under pressure from tighting will "hold" at the slot. Should it slide over the key when installed oor just sit at the end?
Michael Heintz
Machts Nichts
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Washer should be able to butt up against the barrel....
Michael,
The washer is keyed to the barrel, "D" shaped hole, it should be ABLE to mate up with the end of the barrel, but may not completely when installed. The point is, the washer is keyed so that it moves as you move the handle. If the washer is not made up with the key, you could bung up the washer or the key, and then the washer will not go on the key.
When you got it out and in hand, inspect the washer and key. Any burrs or deformities, file them out, so that the washer will fit on the key.
Hope this helps....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
The washer is keyed to the barrel, "D" shaped hole, it should be ABLE to mate up with the end of the barrel, but may not completely when installed. The point is, the washer is keyed so that it moves as you move the handle. If the washer is not made up with the key, you could bung up the washer or the key, and then the washer will not go on the key.
When you got it out and in hand, inspect the washer and key. Any burrs or deformities, file them out, so that the washer will fit on the key.
Hope this helps....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei