CD 270 Toerail

[Daadolf]

I have CD 270 #11 at Jersey Shore Barnegat Bay had damage to teak toe rail about 16”s on starboard side. Any info or advice appreciated also would like to communicate with any 270 owners. Look forward to your input.

[Bill Goldsmith]

I've repaired a few sections of Loonsong's toe rail over the years myself. If you have woodworking tools, it can be a DIY project. Basic tools and supplies would include a piece of teak big enough to cut an oversized replacement (to be sanded or planed flush later), access to a table saw to mill the replacement piece, stainless screws of the same size used on your boat to attach the toe rail, a 3/8 inch forstner bit for recessing bunged fasteners, teak bungs, portable drill and bits, epoxy to fill any old fastener holes, bevel gauge, fine Japanese pull saw. Highly recommended would be access to a drill press to make the bung recesses, a bench top sander to fit the piece in the field.

Big picture, you need to cut out the damaged section with two outward facing scarf cuts. I use a Japanese pull saw after marking with an bevel gauge. Place your scarf cuts in locations where they make sense for existing bunged fasteners. Don't try to reuse old fastener holes--it is very difficult to create a new hole that lines up perfectly. Instead, fill any old fastener holes with epoxy and drill new ones for the new fastener locations you decide on.

Use a reasonably intact piece of the old rail to measure/duplicate the actual dimensions and angles of the rail. Cut a piece of replacement rail with dimensions a little larger than the existing rail. I have a bench top belt sander which I bring to the boat for fitting. Adjust for the curvature of the hull --you will not be able to bend such a short piece of teak, so you will have to sand some relief to the inside of the replacement piece, and so make sure the replacement piece is sufficiently oversized when you first cut it out. It's a little trickier on portions amidships where the hull is more curved, because you have to cut or sand more relief into the hull side of the new teak--toward the ends the hull is less curved and requires less (or no) adjustment. The bench top sander is great for "sneaking up" on the proper dimensions to get the scarfs to fit really well. A little gap is a good thing so that the bedding isn't all squeezed out when you tighten the fasteners. Dry fit and sand the repaired section flush with the existing rail. Some call that cheating, I call it "eyeballing." Then bed it in brown Boat Life or Sikaflex. I like to add bunged fasteners through each scarf joint to hold everything tightly in place. Happy to elaborate on any of these steps if you would find it helpful.

[Walter Hobbs]

Bill,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have a similar project on my CD 27 on the ever expanding winter to do list.

[Daadolf]

Bill,Thanks for your detailed response. I have most the tools and the
Willing to take it on . Keep you up to date.

[Bill Goldsmith]

I just realized that I was talking about rub-rail, especially my comments about hull curvature; you are talking about toe rail. It's basically the same process for toe rail, except that the curvature is not in the bedded side of the teak, the teak rail itself is curved. The additional challenge is getting the scarf cuts done without damaging good rub rail and gelcoat on the deck.

[Daadolf]

No good advice looks like I have a bit of toe rail and rub rail to work on. Thanks again.

[kerrydeare]

I have CD 270 #11 at Jersey Shore Barnegat Bay had damage to teak toe rail about 16”s on starboard side. Any info or advice appreciated also would like to communicate with any 270 owners. Look forward to your input.

My absolute best advice is to contact deRouville Boat Shop (on the Toms River in Bayville). These folks are the wooden boat gurus and this type of repair is just what they do and do well. Oh, before I forget: bring a (large) checkbook.