Leoma windvane
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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JD-MDR
- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Leoma windvane
I'm really having problems getting this new windvane to work.I went across the channel Friday, close hauled and it seemed to be working, although the boat tracks pretty good on its own when close hauled. I did see the vane turning the wheel back and forth. Coming back on a broad reach was a different story .The paddle or steering oar was always way up to one side . It was staying on coarse for a while but then the oar fell off. I'm wondering if I don't have the correct ratio of the quadrant to the drum size cuz with the paddle way up I think that should turn the wheel all the way to one side. Is the quadrant supposed to turn the wheel shaft all the way lock to lock? I think alot of it has to do the balancing of sails. Maybe I should have took the mizzen down and poled out a genoa. It's kinda too much work for a single handed sixty something guy. I'll keep trying. I attached a photo of how I put the drum on the wheel shaft with the control lines coming out from each side to the double grooved drum then around the pin to a jamming cleat on the side. Little by little I will make improvements. I'm happy that I'm at least starting to figure it out. I'm ready to haul out and finish my chain backing plates. I also plan to buy some new seacocks from CDSOA member "Chelininger" who advertised much hardware for sale. I'm also gonna get a bronze thru hull to replace my plastic one for the bilge outlet. I want to move mine to the other side . That would give me a lot of clear area to access my lazerette. After Haulout I think I will focus on a roller furling. I want to keep the club though. It's handy in rough weather. Last boat I had an old fashion roller furling but It was only good when fully out. Do the newer ones work as roller reefing as well?
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WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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John Stone
- Posts: 3621
- Joined: Oct 6th, '08, 07:30
- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Leoma windvane
John
Good to hear from you. Some comments.
Terminology is important. The wood blade in the water is the servo blade. The white fabric covered blade at the top of the tower is the air blade. The tower is the SS vertical tube between the air blade and the servo blade.
No, the vane will not turn the wheel lock to lock—just as you would not turn the wheel that far to steer the boat when sailing. It might turn the wheel 1/4 turn. I’m just guessing based on how far my tiller will move.
The key is to get the boat sailing on any position of sail with the helm nearly centered. That means only a little weather helm. Use the trim of the sails to accomplish a balanced helm. If you have weather helm, and most boats experience increasing amounts as they heel, reduce he wind pressure on the mains’l first. That means ease out the main sheet, drop the traveler, or reef it first. Or with a ketch you can reef or drop the mizzen first. Most people reduce the jib first by roller furling, which is exactly wrong. You want less wind pressure on the sails on the aft end of the boat. On a ketch you might get a neutral helm by reefing the mains’l and keep the mizzen full. Just depends on your boat and the point of sail you are on.
With that accomplished lower the servo blade into the water. Hold the the boat on course then turn the air blade so the blade remains as vertical as possible. When the airblade is vertical and aligned with the tower the servo blade will be in alignment with the tower as well. When the boat is on course with the wheel centered and with the minimum weather helm required, lock the two control lines in place. Let go the wheel and the vane should steer the boat. The wheel should not be turning back and fourth ore than 1/4 turn to either side max.
Keep working at it.
Good to hear from you. Some comments.
Terminology is important. The wood blade in the water is the servo blade. The white fabric covered blade at the top of the tower is the air blade. The tower is the SS vertical tube between the air blade and the servo blade.
No, the vane will not turn the wheel lock to lock—just as you would not turn the wheel that far to steer the boat when sailing. It might turn the wheel 1/4 turn. I’m just guessing based on how far my tiller will move.
The key is to get the boat sailing on any position of sail with the helm nearly centered. That means only a little weather helm. Use the trim of the sails to accomplish a balanced helm. If you have weather helm, and most boats experience increasing amounts as they heel, reduce he wind pressure on the mains’l first. That means ease out the main sheet, drop the traveler, or reef it first. Or with a ketch you can reef or drop the mizzen first. Most people reduce the jib first by roller furling, which is exactly wrong. You want less wind pressure on the sails on the aft end of the boat. On a ketch you might get a neutral helm by reefing the mains’l and keep the mizzen full. Just depends on your boat and the point of sail you are on.
With that accomplished lower the servo blade into the water. Hold the the boat on course then turn the air blade so the blade remains as vertical as possible. When the airblade is vertical and aligned with the tower the servo blade will be in alignment with the tower as well. When the boat is on course with the wheel centered and with the minimum weather helm required, lock the two control lines in place. Let go the wheel and the vane should steer the boat. The wheel should not be turning back and fourth ore than 1/4 turn to either side max.
Keep working at it.
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JD-MDR
- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: Leoma windvane
I feel like I'm being scolded.
Eric from Cape Horn said I should have a 2/1 ratio so when I lift the
Servo Blade or turn the quadrant 20 Degrees my rudder should turn 10 degrees. I have to lift the blade all the way up to get 10 degrees rudder.So I think the ratio is way off. "Morning Star has a 14" radius on the lever instead of the 8" radius I have on the quadrant. I think I really need a small drum. CH is sending one with 2.5" radius. It's gonna be tricky getting the jamming cleats to work. I'm not frustrated anymore. At least I'm making progress. Scheduled to haul out 7/15 to finish chain plates and three seacocks .
Thanks John. I appreciate your input. I have noticed wind pressure on the aft end points the boat up more. like you said I have been reducing or easing sail with the main or mizzen first
Eric from Cape Horn said I should have a 2/1 ratio so when I lift the
Servo Blade or turn the quadrant 20 Degrees my rudder should turn 10 degrees. I have to lift the blade all the way up to get 10 degrees rudder.So I think the ratio is way off. "Morning Star has a 14" radius on the lever instead of the 8" radius I have on the quadrant. I think I really need a small drum. CH is sending one with 2.5" radius. It's gonna be tricky getting the jamming cleats to work. I'm not frustrated anymore. At least I'm making progress. Scheduled to haul out 7/15 to finish chain plates and three seacocks .
Thanks John. I appreciate your input. I have noticed wind pressure on the aft end points the boat up more. like you said I have been reducing or easing sail with the main or mizzen first
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510