Time to think about the wood.

[MHBsailor]

To answer casampson's post about teak sealant, I tried it on the teak on my last sailboat and wasn't very happy with it, both in terms of how it went on (too viscous) and the result after it dried (dull flat). In my case, since the previous owner was so kind as to have had the yard do all the teak varnishing maintenance, I'm going to do my best to keep it up as I do think it makes for a classy look, but if I had to start from scratch, until I'm retired and have lots more time to bond with my boat, I may be tempted to employ a less time-consuming alternative solution, so I really appreciate the diverse experiences and opinions on this thread!
Having said that, as I too am in Southern New England and it will be at least another month or possibly even up to six weeks before the shrink wrap comes off, just thinking about it being warm enough to varnish teak is wonderful to contemplate. JD

[mgphl52]

just thinking about it being warm enough to varnish teak is wonderful to contemplate. JD

I always seemed to find a good day for doing teak work could be a great day for sailing...
guess which one *always* won out...

[MHBsailor]

Although some days will be warm enough for teak varnishing by mid-to-late April here in coastal Southern New England, the water will probably in the mid-40s so there's plenty of time for teak work before a mid-May launch.

[wsonntag]

I've posted about my varnish technique before so just a e points here. Answering the first question - heat guns, really any one you find will work, I have two, one I like a bit more but they're not something that demands lots of comparison shopping. I'll add the one hint I have found really helpful, when using a heat gun, along with a scraper, always have a shinny putty knife in the other hand to help direct the heat and protect adjacent finish and fiberglass.

I have always used Interlux Schooner, I'm used to it. I dose it up with Japan Dryer, (especially when I'm trying for a hot coat, second coat in one day) correct thinning solvent and a dash of Penetrol. And through many varnish campaigns, I've found that my prep and extra care especially with the first sealer coats as John S has described, have a huge impact on longevity. Sanding, vigorous for the first few coats, then you read the results as you go between coats, good smooth coverage last coat, problem areas, sags and drips, but almost always a light scuff just to see where you're are going on the next coat. I never use much more than hand sanding with 220, maybe 180 on early coats. Brushes, I use basic quality badger brushes available at the marina stores especially for big surface areas like coamings, but for hand rails etc, foam brushes work fine. It takes time and technique to make sure you don't overload them. They get loaded up fast and your going to have drips, sags, and holidays....!

I wish I was aboard my boat now working on the varnish. I'm looking forward to my Spring varnish touch up regimen and this year and I'm going to tackle the toerails, rubrails. Teak oil just does not cut it. I just can't stand to see em grey and dirty. And just to my right here at the desk is the Rebecca Wittman book along side a few color photos of 1950's era Lancia D50 Monoposto F1 race cars.

Cheers!

[wsonntag]

Sorry should have picked another photo. It's a standard Spartan Marine bronze cast cleat, electropolished, copper strike, Nickel plate, 22 caret gold plate.

[John Stone]

WSONNTAG
Great work. Lovely finish.

[Walter Hobbs]

Please straighten out those slotted screw heads!
Just joking, beautiful work!!!

[casampson]

Temperatures in the fifties prompted me to uncover my boat today. Work on treating the teak may begin as early as tomorrow. I have pretty much decided to go with a teak oil sealer, such as the one offered by Star Brite or possibly the Totalboat product sold by Jamestown Distributors. No varnish or even Cetol for me, at least not this time. It will take a while, but I will post pictures when I have finished.

[wsonntag]

I am compelled by experience to warn you off the Star Brite product. I used it once and was greatly disappointed.

On the other hand, you might want to check out a product called "Amazon's Golden Teak Oil", here's the listing from Jamestown Distributors: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/u ... do?pid=163

It gives a very nice finish. I've used it on my toe and rub rails. You have to keep after these products, none of them have great longevity but this looked very good for a few months but by the end of the season it was not so good I admit, did not return to it all season. I'm still weighing whether I want to commit to full varnish regimen on toe and rub rails. Let see 31 X 2 = way too many linear feet, I may go this route again and keep a renewal regimen going. Its does not take long to renew with just a couple rags.......

So despite my varnish preference pathology this seems to be a good alternative again noting you need to stick to a renewal schedule a couple times a season.

I look forward to seeing your results in photos. And, whatever the choice - fair winds and happy sailing to you your family and friends.

[wsonntag]

Walter Hobbs

The screw heads were straight! Just an optical illusion caused by camera angle, declination of the sun, azimuth of the spheres, Bernoulli effect, strength of the Mt Gay and tonic, etc.....

Thanks

Cheers!

[Walter Hobbs]

I stand corrected.

W

[tjr818]

Lock prop, wheel, tiller or not, certainly everyone agrees that all screw slots should be in the vertical position for drainage

[John Stone]

certainly everyone agrees that all screw slots should be in the vertical position for drainage

Not bitting on this one.

[casampson]

I used Semco Natural on our new teak patio furniture, and I am totally sold on the product. Check it out below.

[Frenchy]

Very classy!