Questions re leak-proofing hatches, CD31

[Cathy Monaghan]

Here’s a link to Pompanette’s website for our hatches. They are the Bomar 100 Series cast hatches (at least that’s what’s on our CD32).

http://pompanettellc.com/current-catalo ... ast-hatch/

If you want to order the gasket material from them, it’s part# P100-52. You’ll find a list of spare parts for Bomar hatches in their catalog:

http://pompanettellc.com/wp-content/upl ... 3.2016.pdf

If you need to remove the lens, once you remove all the old glazing compound you can reseat the lens using butyl tape then seal all around the edges of the lens with Dowsil 790 or 791.

I didn’t use the butyl tape when I did mine, just used the glazing compound. It was very messy since to oozes out all over the place. Be sure to mask everything off ahead of time, especially the underside of the lens at the cross beams of the hatch.

Hope this helps.

[John Stone]

Years ago I tried this on leaking forward facing windows of a pilot house sail boat.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/captain- ... nt--243990

It worked and the leak was still gone 8 or 10 years later when I sold the boat.

Good Luck

Gary

That sounds like a product worth having around

[Gary M]

Thanks, Gary. I have heard of that stuff, but not in a very long time. But seems like I had heard positive reports before.

Did you use the Tolley's on cracks in the existing sealer?

Exactly. It was easy to use and it worked. I believe it is designed to fill very small cracks in sealer.

[Boyd]

Hi All:

A couple of years ago I replaced all 8 hatch lenses on my catamaran and the very large fixed windshields and side windows.

Generally the original caulk was pulling back from the frames and fiberglass but not leaking. The major complaint was crazing. I just couldnt see out.

For the hatches I used acrylic (plexiglass) to replace the very crazed existing acrylic. The hatch manuf was Eurpopean and used a metric sized product so I went to the next size slightly larger fractional size. I used a router to put a small chamfer to taper the difference out. It worked great.

For the 18" high x 5' long fixed windows I used a product called MR-10. Its a coated Polycarbonate (Lexan is a trade name) which is specifically used for things like race car windshields. I had to buy entire sheets from a supplier in Tampa (Total Plastics) Fortunately my son-in-law lives there, saving me the trip.

I used the GM 2200 black structural silicone which is compatible with both Lexan and Acrylic. DO NOT use any solvent based caulk. Been there, done that, didnt like the outcome.

To replace a hatch lens, just take the old one off at the hinges, take a utility knife and cut thru the entire depth of the caulk from the top. Then use a sharpened putty knife to pry and chisel the underside caulk joint. Clean out the old caulk thouroughly. The final clean up is with Isopropanol Alcohol. Use gloves and dont get finger grease on any mating surfaces.

Glue done a cheap piece of plywood with silicone on the bottom frame to cover the opening while the hatch is out.

I took the old lens to a plastics shop (Prospect Plastics) and had them profile cut an exact match from Acrylic or in the case of the windshields the MR-10 Typical hatch cost $45.

Sand the edges lightly with 60 grit to help the silicone bond. Clean with Alcohol. Then mask EVERYTHING. Caulk, wipe the excess with fingers and let it set 48 hours. The silicone mentioned above takes 10 days to fully cure but is pretty much good to go in 24 to 48 hours. Remove masking IMMEDIATELY. If you dont you will be sorry.

I took one of the old acrylic lenses (fully checked) and beat on it with a mini sledge. I did manage to break it but despite its well weathered condition it took a heck of a beating to fail. It was about 1/4". I took the old MR-10 and did the same thing. I only managed to dent and scratch it despite 18 years of crazing all over. I have total confidence that both products will stand up to pretty much anything.

I did use regular Lexan on my CD to replace the side windows. They hazed over and got translucent in only two years. The new MR-10 looks perfect after 2 years in Florida sun. I dont recommend Lexan for the replacement. Its too soft and doesnt stay clear. Acrylic is plenty strong enough.

This was the best single cosmetic improvement I have ever made in the Cat. Very rewarding. Total project cost about $750 for materials (Two full sheets of MR-10 was the heavy expense) but I did all the work myself.

Boyd
S/C Cat-A-Tonic
Prout 34
Fort Lauderdale.Fla