Teak source

[dr2owen]

It looks like my rub rails are going to have to be replaced. Does anyone have a recommendation for a source of teak lumber in the Baltimore area?

[csoule13]

Exotic lumber, Annapolis. The real deal teak ain't cheap, though. Good luck.

[Vincent]

And Freestate Timbers in Timonium 410-561-9444

[S/V Ethan Grey]

It looks like my rub rails are going to have to be replaced. Does anyone have a recommendation for a source of teak lumber in the Baltimore area?

The rubrails on my CD30 are broken and will need to be replaced as well. I'm interested in following your progress. Please post lots of pictures.

[Walter Hobbs]

I've got a couple of damaged spots on my rubrail, CD 27, hoping to scarf in a couple of new pieces. I don't know if dimensions are the same as yours but I bet you'll have a few feet of undamaged rail. If dimensions are the same, Id love to take them off your hands for cost of handling and shipping. I'll have to measure.

Thanks.

[John Stone]

The mill shop at Atlantic Veneer, Beaufort NC. 350 miles away. Probably not a good option. But Jack King who runs the mill outlet there is very helpful. May be worth the call. PM me if you want his number.

Iroko is a reasonable substitute. I think silver bali is excellent too. I like ipe but it is very hard and tough to work with. If you go with teak get real Burmese teak and avoid plantation teak. There are other substitutes too.

I’m facing a similar task in the near future as I plan to add robust rub rails to the Far Reach.

[rorik]

I had good luck with Jatoba for rub rails/toe rails on a `59 Cheoy Lee……

[Jim Cornwell]

How can one tell if a piece of teak lumber is of the "real Burmese" or "plantation" variety? I've got some seemingly suitable material yearning to become replacement eyebrows for Yankee but don't want to invest lots of effort if the stuff is inferior.

[John Stone]

Hi Jim
I hear ya. If you have not worked with Burmese teak it can be hard to tell the difference. Side by side...it’s instantly apparent which is which.

Based on the wood I have used, Burmese teak is very dark brown—with a rich color, much more oily, and when you use a saw on it the beautiful fragrance of real teak comes bursting out.

Plantation teak, as a general rule, has wide growth rings. It has a more mottled pastel brownish color. While it has oil the the fragrance of the wood is more neutral—less strong. Actually, I don’t think it smells very good.

There are probably other characteristics. Any experienced builder of wood boats can also tell you what you have. You might also try the “wood data base” on line and read the descriptions of the two woods.

[dr2owen]

John,
So for making rub rails instead of cabinetry would the plantation teak be a bad thing to use. I understand that it may not be as aesthetically pleasing but is it an inferior product for that application?

[John Stone]

John,
So for making rub rails instead of cabinetry would the plantation teak be a bad thing to use. I understand that it may not be as aesthetically pleasing but is it an inferior product for that application?

It’s a purely imdividual decision. For me, I do not like the plantation teak. It’s not as strong. I suspect it’s not as rot resistant. It’s a whole lot of work to install a new rub-rail. I’m not one to throw money at things but you won’t be sorry if you use the best products you can afford.

Personally, I’d use iroko before I used plantation teak. That’s just me. I might use it based on some particular circumstances I was in...but I’m not so I won’t use it.

It’s not irresponsible or bad seamanship to use plantation teak. It does have some good characteristics over other wood for this application. It’s just a choice.

If you paint it you have more options. But if you want to leave it bare I think Burmese teak or silver Bali or iroko would be a better choice regarding longevity.