is this mooring pendant serviceable?

[Megunticook]

I have a mooring pendant that's now seen 5 seasons. This is a remote mooring, not my home harbor, so I'm only on it maybe 15-20 days per year. It's in a fairly protected harbor. Other boats use it when I'm not around (I know this because when I show up sometimes another boat is on it), but I'm guessing that's only 1-2 nights per week typically in the summer. It's only in the water May through October, and gets a through washing each fall before being stored away indoors.

It's a Yale Maxi-Moor, 5/8 x 16', stainless thimble, and has an old canvas firehose chafe guard on it. It looks fine to me, except there's some wear on the jacket on the back side of the thimble where it apparently rubs against the shackle. It doesn't look like the wear has made it to the core yet.

What do you think...should I retire this thing now or am I just throwing away a perfectly serviceable piece of gear? I'm frugal, but at the same time I don't like to cut corners where safety is concerned. What do you say (is MaineSail around? Love to hear from you...)

[Chrisa006]

It is a $100 piece of line. What is your boat and piece of mind worth? If that isn’t reason enough to replace it have it shortened and respliced.

[Paul D.]

Modern rope is strong stuff and the core/sheath design makes for very long service life. Just from the photo, I would probably check it each time I tie up and replace it next season as I'm a cheap bastard. (What can I say, depression era parents!) The sheath is not braided all the way through and I'd assume the core still has all it's strength. However, as it is on a remote mooring and not checked often, I'd simply replace it now and not worry.

[John Stone]

That looks like a nice deep thimble from the photo which is intended to prevent that very type of chafe. Five years is probably a good life for a pendant but I don’t have experience in your area. I’d replace it for the reasons others have stated. But more importantly I’d want to know if that is normal wear or is there some adjustment on how your pendant is attached that might eliminate that wear. There are a lot of experienced harbor masters in your area (Maine?). I’d sketch out exactly how it’s put together (take pictures if possible) and take one of these folks to lunch and get their thoughts about it.

Also, there is an excellent video on OffCenter Harbour made with Wayne Hamilton (Harbour master in Searsport and family of Hamilton Marine ) about how moorings should be assembled and what kind of shackles go where, discussion on splices and line and chain. etc etc. Very informative.

I for one would be interesting in what you learn.

[Carl Thunberg]

Something in your mooring system isn't quite right. You should not be getting chafe in that area. Your thimble is either rubbing against the chain or an undersized shackle. I have the exact same pendant and have never experienced chafe in that area. You should be able to get at least five years out of a Yale pendant. 16 feet seems a little long for a Typhoon. Also, you want a float right after the thimble, so the mooring pendant lays sideways against the ball, not hanging down. Maine Sail has a very good tutorial on mooring setup. Check it out.

[mgphl52]

Other boats use it when I'm not around (I know this because when I show up sometimes another boat is on it), but I'm guessing that's only 1-2 nights per week typically in the summer.

It's also possible the chafe was caused by other boats not connecting properly.

[Megunticook]

I’d want to know if that is normal wear or is there some adjustment on how your pendant is attached that might eliminate that wear. There are a lot of experienced harbor masters in your area (Maine?).

I believe it was rubbing on the shackle that attaches it to the swivel. I set everything up according to Wayne Hamilton's methods. The one thing I may have gotten wrong, though, is he talks about using zip ties to keep the pendant in a position where it can't rub on the shackle. I don't think I got that part right. The shackle is 5/8, which is exactly what Hamilton recommends for my size boat.

You should be able to get at least five years out of a Yale pendant.

An old timer who I hired on the original mooring install said 10 years, but I took that with a grain of salt. My mooring guys in Camden are very experienced, and they seem to replace after about 3 years. Also, interestingly, they told me not to use a swivel unless absolutely necessary, as that's the weak point in the system and I guess they've seen some failures. They were a little dismissive of Hamilton when I mentioned that I was following his methods. I decided to keep the swivel, although I'm putting a new one on this year (after 5 years on the original). They didn't use a swivel on my Camden mooring, and I've seen the pendant get wrapped around the chain on more than one occasion (in fact I got a call from them yesterday saying I needed a new pendant because of that very problem, which chafed the old one that was only 2 years old!).

Something in your mooring system isn't quite right. You should not be getting chafe in that area. Your thimble is either rubbing against the chain or an undersized shackle. I have the exact same pendant and have never experienced chafe in that area. You should be able to get at least five years out of a Yale pendant. 16 feet seems a little long for a Typhoon. Also, you want a float right after the thimble, so the mooring pendant lays sideways against the ball, not hanging down. Maine Sail has a very good tutorial on mooring setup. Check it out.

16 feet seems a little long for a Typhoon.

I've read that you don't want it too short, but never heard that a pendant can be "too long."

Also, you want a float right after the thimble, so the mooring pendant lays sideways against the ball, not hanging down. Maine Sail has a very good tutorial on mooring setup. Check it out.

I do have that on my remote mooring and told the Camden guys to make sure that was set up this year on the Camden mooring. I've read MaineSail's stuff and find it very informative.

[Megunticook]

Other boats use it when I'm not around (I know this because when I show up sometimes another boat is on it), but I'm guessing that's only 1-2 nights per week typically in the summer.

It's also possible the chafe was caused by other boats not connecting properly.

Not sure how that would be caused by "not connecting properly"--the chafe is on the back side of the thimble. In fact I suspect the rubbing happens when there's no tension on the pendant, since when it's pulled taut the backside of the thimble is not contacting the shackle.

[John Stone]

Megunticook,
That’s a pretty thorough investigation. Sounds like you are sorting it out. I agree a swivel can be the weak link. But pendants twisted around chains can chafe through. So it seems to me that you need to make sure the swivel is an appropriate size, is US made, and changed ever so often. I think we are talking less than $50 to change out a swivel.

I rebuilt my friends mooring here in St Thomas and that’s what the Far Reach is hanging on now. I used a big US made swivel and US made shackles that are part of my drogue parachute system. The opinions here seems to be split in using or not using a swivel.

The owner of the local chandlery and I had a disagreement when he tried to convince me the Chinese made swivels he sold were a better value than a US domestic made swivel. His rational was laughable but worse it was irresponsible.

As far as Wayne Hamilton’s technique...call him and ask him about the criticism. See what he says. That would be an interesting conversation. You know, if you want to find someone to challenge your opinions just ask a sailor. We have a great variety of views and opinions even here on our friendly and helpful forum. And the opinions are usually well supported with sound reasoning. But so is the conflicting opinion. There usually isn’t one way to do all things. To me the surest sign that there is no one indisputable way to do something is when insurance companies don’t require it. When the evidence is overwhelmingly supportive of a technique they almost always require it.

I think you are doing the right thing—going to experts, listening to their views (make sure you ask them to explain their rationale), asking your fellow sailors, etc. then do what seems like the best approach for you.

Would be interested to hear what you decide. Pictures are always a plus.

[Carl Thunberg]

Let me clarify on the length. If space is of no concern, then no worries. In a crowded mooring field, 16 feet could be a problem for a Typhoon. Yale pendants sink, so the longer the pendant, the more floats you need to keep it floating on the surface when you are away. I tried the pool noodle method, and that didn't work out so well. No matter how many wire ties I used, it would eventually start to bunch up. I went back to the old fashioned lobster buoy toggles.

[kerrydeare]

I have a mooring pendant that's now seen 5 seasons ... It's a Yale Maxi-Moor, 5/8 x 16', stainless thimble ... there's some wear on the jacket on the back side of the thimble where it apparently rubs against the shackle ... should I retire this thing [?] ...]

Not to be mean about it, but if you have to ask ...

First, this mooring is for your own Typhoon, and there's little reason to employ a 16 foot pendant. Way too long. Second, if others use the mooring, it's up to them to make things secure, not you. If bigger boats get on your rig, security is their problem, not yours. Of course that's the nature of remote mooring gear. Third and of most importance, there is clearly a chafe issue that's not being addressed, and either you or the folks who maintain your gear need to get it fixed now. There are always several ways to do this and it doesn't matter which one you choose, but it really does really matter that you address the issue now (repeat: now).

Is your boat worth more or less than a piece of rope?

[Megunticook]

I think we are talking less than $50 to change out a swivel.

Yes, I just picked up a new 3/4" one at Hamilton for $47.

The owner of the local chandlery and I had a disagreement when he tried to convince me the Chinese made swivels he sold were a better value than a US domestic made swivel. His rational was laughable but worse it was irresponsible.

Agreed, I only buy U.S. made steel if I have any choice. Fortunately Hamilton carries the "Chicago" stuff (as well as the cheaper Chinese). Way too many documented cases of crappy Asian steel.

As far as Wayne Hamilton’s technique...call him and ask him about the criticism. See what he says. That would be an interesting conversation.

I've met Wayne and had some chats with him, I'm quite sure he'd just dismiss my local mooring guy's opinion on swivels. I tend to side with Wayne on this one--especially as I got a call a few days ago from my mooring guy saying he needed to replace the pendant that was new two years ago because of chain wrap. I asked him what he planned to do to make sure that didn't happen again--he said he'd put another float on the pendant. We'll see...

[Megunticook]

In a crowded mooring field, 16 feet could be a problem for a Typhoon. Yale pendants sink, so the longer the pendant, the more floats you need to keep it floating on the surface when you are away. I tried the pool noodle method, and that didn't work out so well. No matter how many wire ties I used, it would eventually start to bunch up. I went back to the old fashioned lobster buoy toggles.

The remote mooring is actually the only one in the harbor, so I'm not too worried about swing radius. On the other hand, there are times when a bunch of boats anchor there. There's plenty of space, but it's funny how often people will crowd the mooring even though there's lots of space elsewhere. I guess they figure it must be safe where my mooring is.

I use a toggle on the end and pipe-insulator foam on the rest, but as you say it tends to bunch up even with tight zip ties. This year I might just bag the foam and buy a few more toggles.

[John Stone]

Seems like you are sorting it out pretty well. In the Hamilton video I mention, made by Off Center Harbor, Wayne secures the pipe insulation along its entire length with some kind of special tape. I didn’t think about it at the time but it makes a lot of sense now. He explained the rational for doing it that way. Maybe something to consider.

[Megunticook]

First, this mooring is for your own Typhoon, and there's little reason to employ a 16 foot pendant. Way too long.

What's the rationale there? Hamilton's guidance is pendant needs to be "a minimum of 3 times the height of your bow off the water." There's no harm in "too long" unless you don't have the swing room. But correct me if I'm wrong (just explain the reasoning).

If bigger boats get on your rig, security is their problem, not yours.

Exactly...I painted "22' max" on the mooring buoy (plus my last name) but from what I've seen some people don't pay the least bit of attention to that--they see a mooring, they take it (even though they have no idea of its condition--pretty dicey).

there is clearly a chafe issue that's not being addressed, and either you or the folks who maintain your gear need to get it fixed now.

Agreed, I'll try Wayne Hamilton's method using zip ties to hold the thimble away from the far side of the shackle.