"Leoma" update 3/24 /19

[JD-MDR]

Haven't posted for a while. Been busy scraping up the money for new dodger and windvane. I met with Iverson guys last week at Marina Del Rey. They set the tubing and made patterns. I have to go back in a couple of weeks. I also got the Cape Horn windvane and started installing today. I got the horizontal tube in and will glass the pads and the tube maybe wednesday. I'm following John S's example closely. I wonder if I need to use marine plywood for the pads for the lead blocks. Maybe the boatyard will sell me a small piece of plywood. Ive attached a photo of the dodger frame and the vane quadrant with the drum on the aft end of my wheel shaft .It's really close. It's too bad I can figure out a way to use a angular type coupling and connect without all the control lines. I guess I would have to figure out a way to disengage. I'm gonna try to rearrange all those hoses I can't wait to have autopilot. The trip back up to Ventura is only 60 miles but I was beat to a pulp . The Santa Ana's came up about 11:00 so I went to Paradise cove for a couple hours and as forcasted By 2PM it went to North, NW about 20 knots. The currant runs strong sometimes out of the Santa Barbara Channel. I hope I'm not too old to make my big trip I've been planning to Hilo and Kodiak. I might take a trip North maybe to San Francisco just to beat her up a little to see if she's ready ( And Me)

[Frenchy]

Your boat is coming along nicely, J.D. The dodger frame is a work of art. I think most of us are thinking about how
old we all are and hoping to sail for a long time yet. - Jean

[John Stone]

JD
Glad to hear you are well and still hammering away. Yes to marine grade ply. You just need some beveled squares for the pad eyes. I’m sure you can get a boat yard to give you a few off-cuts. Don’t be bashful about dumpster diving. There are some jewels to be found there plus there is always plywood.

It’ll get easier the more you sail because you transition from trying to muscle things along to becoming more proficient at technique. I continue to learn new and easier techniques all the time.

Looking forward to reading more about your upgrades and modifications.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks John, I wish I had your patience. I got the struts in. Not as nicely as I wanted . I had to force a couple in place cuz I didn't get the brackets lined up perfect. I should have did a mock up with pvc like you did. I just eyeballed everything and drilled the holes with a regular drill motor. I think It's OK. I wish I put more angle on the interior ones. I had to reem out some of the holes a little to get the bolt to go thur. I have another mistake on the exterior ones I cut them too short. I wanted them as far aft as possible but I couldn't get the nut on so I plug those holes with the g-10 rod I have left over and Since that teak board on the stern is so split and broken . I went ahead and cut a space for the bracket. If I ever replace that board I will make it good. I can live with it for now. I'm wondering if the outboard will block the wind. I can fold the steering oar up if I tilt the outboard. So that worked out OK. I only put one layer of fiberglass cloth on the pads. I was wondering if I should put more. I have two layers around the horizonital tube I didn't cut a hole but cut it so the 1" strips fold out along the tube then I wrapped that with a 2" strip on the tube bonding the two together. The control Lines are gonna cost me another $300 I don't know if I can do it yet. It's gonna be tricky.

[John Stone]

Hi JD
That looks great! Even the pros make mistakes...it’s how you address them that determines your skill.

One or two layers? Depends on what you are using for cloth...1708 biaxial then one is good.

Why $300 for line? What kind of line are you using? I have used 1/4” endura braid (has some spectra in the core) and standard 1/4” sta-set and I can’t tell the difference. I recommend you start with the sta-set (not sta-set X) and see how it works. Then replace it later with something like endura braid that has less stretch if you want and keep the sta-set as a back up.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks for the response , I was including blocks and leads etc. I need four bullet blocks and two fiddle blocks and fairleads and about 50' line. and cam cleats. Did you choose the 001's just because of the 500# rating. the others are all 300. I was thinking of swivel blocks. It would be $10 more each for the 500# but I don't see them with swivel. I was looking at the double braided with dyneema core. Also I got cheap stainless steel eyebolts form Home Depot I need about 6 of them and the good ones are about $20 ea. I got lucky again this week. I can't believe how the work keeps coming in. I evan got enough to pay my taxes. I am going to order the hardware soon as I get some input. The diagram of how I want to run the control lines is attached. John S. I really appreciate your help. I didn't want to interrupt your vacation.

[John Stone]

JD
No worries. Glad to help if I can but you seem like you have it under control. I chose the bigger blocks because they have a larger turning radius and therefore less friction. All are swivel blocks. Do whatever you can to eliminate as much friction as possible.

Just sailed across from St Thomas to St Croix—about 35 miles. The Cape Horn windvane, as always, steered the entire was. It performed perfectly.