CD27 prop replacement source

[John Stone]

I’m the last guy to tell you what to do. Your boat, your money, your way. But, there is no question your boat will sail better with a two blade locked vertically in the aperture than with a three blade prop. She will tack easier in light air and sail faster. The rudder will experience less turbulence with a two blade than a three blade even when you have enough wind to sustain hull speed with a three blade.

She will motor better and there will be less propeller vibration with a three blade prop. She will stop quicker with a three blade prop. So you have to ask yourself, where do you want the best performance, from your SAILboat or from your MOTORboat. The right answer is likely the one that most supports they way you enjoy using your boat most of the time.

[mgphl52]

After re-purchasing KAYLA (that's another story...) I replaced the 3-blade Michigan prop with a Campbell Sailor and am very pleased! The prior prop would easily knock a knot or better off my speed when locked in reverse and hum quite a bit when left to free-wheel. The new prop doesn't free-wheel much at all so I usually lock it in reverse to get the lever out of my way.

[Sea Hunt Video]

After re-purchasing KAYLA (that's another story...) I replaced the 3-blade Michigan prop with a Campbell Sailor and am very pleased! The prior prop would easily knock a knot or better off my speed when locked in reverse and hum quite a bit when left to free-wheel. The new prop doesn't free-wheel much at all so I usually lock it in reverse to get the lever out of my way.

I have been patiently waiting to see how long it would take during this cold winter for someone to raise the issue of "locked" versus "freewheeling" prop manners. My good friend Mike FINALLY bit the bullet and raised the issue. Let the war begin It's not too late There ares still 10 weeks before splashing up north.

[John Stone]

After re-purchasing KAYLA (that's another story...) I replaced the 3-blade Michigan prop with a Campbell Sailor and am very pleased! The prior prop would easily knock a knot or better off my speed when locked in reverse and hum quite a bit when left to free-wheel. The new prop doesn't free-wheel much at all so I usually lock it in reverse to get the lever out of my way.

I have been patiently waiting to see how long it would take during this cold winter for someone to raise the issue of "locked" versus "freewheeling" prop manners. My good friend Mike FINALLY bit the bullet and raised the issue. Let the war begin It's not too late There ares still 10 weeks before splashing up north.

I saw that too Roberto. And my first reaction was, oh my, here we go. But I noticed Roberto you took no position on locked or free wheeling. So, I’ll offer the only irrefutable position...the least drag is produced by neither locked nor free wheeling...the least drag is produced by no prop. Which is why we don’t have one. ‘Course that doesn’t make it the smartest option...which is a discussion better left for another day.

[mgphl52]

After re-purchasing KAYLA (that's another story...) I replaced the 3-blade Michigan prop with a Campbell Sailor and am very pleased! The prior prop would easily knock a knot or better off my speed when locked in reverse and hum quite a bit when left to free-wheel. The new prop doesn't free-wheel much at all so I usually lock it in reverse to get the lever out of my way.

I have been patiently waiting to see how long it would take during this cold winter for someone to raise the issue of "locked" versus "freewheeling" prop manners. My good friend Mike FINALLY bit the bullet and raised the issue. Let the war begin It's not too late There ares still 10 weeks before splashing up north.

I saw that too Roberto. And my first reaction was, oh my, here we go. But I noticed Roberto you took no position on locked or free wheeling. So, I’ll offer the only irrefutable position...the least drag is produced by neither locked nor free wheeling...the least drag is produced by no prop. Which is why we don’t have one. ‘Course that doesn’t make it the smartest option...which is a discussion better left for another day.

Oh sheeeet! I guess I better not mention my full-batten, loose-foot main... Oops! I reckon I just did
Seriously, my post was directed to "props" and their design. I really like my Campbell Sailor.

[fmueller]

mathaisben ...

I put a Featherstream on my 27 when I installed a Beta 14 last spring/summer. 12" x 9" (7" in rev.) Boat goes faster in light air for sure. There is some cavitation noise at about 2000 rpm. The pitch seems about right ... I can make 3500 rpm / no smoke. 5.6 to 5.8 knots. I think I might be just a little bit over pitched. But I usually just run at 2600 rpm and go a strong 4.5 knots.

The big deal is we felt we should modify the aperture so that extreme rudder angles would not impinge on the prop but only if you flipped from fwd to rev and had the tiller pegged hard over (something I really never do) ... but just to be safe, we ground out the rudder a little, then re-glassed it. In other words, there was only very slight interference with the leading edge of the rudder at extreme rudder and the prop in feathered attitude.

here are three pix that display the problem ... I did not take shots of the modified rudder ... The prop itself looked like jewelry right out of the box and has worked without a hitch so far. Just a very slight knock when going from fwd to rev and back.

World of difference in all aspects from my YSM 8 and factory 12" x 2 blade and the Beta 14 / Featherstream

PM me or call if you'd like to discuss. 508 250 1164

cheers Fred

[John Stone]

That’s very nice work Fred. What kind of reduction gearing does your Beta 14 have? If I ever put an inboard in the Far Reach it would probably be a Beta 16. It would need a hefty reduction gear and a big two blade folding prop though. It’s something I consider from time to time.

Have you considered rudder stops? I have set them up on the Far Reach. Max effective rudder angle is about 35°. No benefits to turning radius past that. The danger is backing down...if the rudder gets whipped over serious damage can occur.

[Frenchy]

Thanks for posting, Fred. I've been interested in the Featherstreams for awhile-money and cost/benefit ratio is the issue.
I'm also shocked that your rudder can swing 45 degrees off center. Mine is limited to about 30 or so. I hope you'll
let us know what kind of performance improvement you get. - Jean

[fmueller]

John,

I think the beta 14 comes with 2/1 reduction in the transmission and the 16 is the same ... but you can get other ratios.

We thought about rudder stops but my son Toby who did most of the work was not to keen on that. How did you accomplish that ? I do know I want to pull the rudder next winter just as a confidence measure plus at that time maybe I can figure out how to stop the dripping from the rudder tube into the cockpit when motoring - which others have reported here as something tillered Cape Dorys just do ... grrr

You would definitely want the 16 for your boat. I feel the 14 is just a little underpowered for my 27 - or perhaps the feathering prop is just not as efficient as a standard prop - I can just make 6 knots wide open - I think my hull speed is 6.2 ... but I don't care. If I'm motoring I'm happy at 2600 rpms and 4.8 knots. But I really don't motor much. Have a good look at the Yanmars because they come with larger alternators standard. The two cylinder Yanmar 15 has a 120 amp alternator I think. They correctly surmise that these small motors are DC generators as much as they are point a to b devices.


Jean,

I made other changes last summer that have helped sailing dynamics besides the feathering prop ... so I don't know how much to attribute to the prop itself. I took down my radar which gets that weight off the mast and also removes the turbulence and windage in the slot (I think that is a pretty big deal - especially on my small boat). (I might put it back up on a pole - but I'm not in a hurry).

I moved my two group 27 AGMs to under the cabin sole from the shelf they were on in the stbd locker, and we got a new poly fuel tank and lowered/centered it in the boat by about 18" on the port side. The bottom was nicely sanded and painted so it is a smooth as it has ever been, and then a rigger from RW Rope in New Bedford came and helped me carefully tension the standing rigging, lots more tension than I previously thought was correct. Long/short, boat really moving very much noticeably better. In a decent breeze (8-12) I'm hardly ever below 5 knots except if I'm pinching or DDW, mostly at 5.4 or 5.6ish (and I'm only flying a 110% hi cut jib). 12-15 and I'm in the 6 knot neighborhood all the time and past 15 I need to reef because I'm not going to go faster.

What I can say about the prop confidently is that reverse is more powerful - (well "braking") - prop walk is, if anything, worse.

: >(

But acceleration in forward is better too. All together it's smoother and quieter and the Beta starts every time - including a few times last fall at near freezing temps.



cheers

Fred