Outboard shaft length for Typhoon Daysailer?

[sciottos]

I'm finding a lot of 20" shaft lengths - but measurement from the top of the mounting bracket (stock) down 20 inches shows the cavitation plate barely under the waterline. Might be OK in calm water, but I'd be baring the prop every time I pass through a swell.

Is there a recommended shaft-length and horsepower for a Typhoon?

I could buy a new Tohatsu 5 hp propane-burner with a 25" shaft - which would work - but I'm told they're buggy...not cheap, either.

Found a 4.5 Johnson 2-stroke with the integrated gas tank but again - only a 20-incher.

Thanks in advance for any answers/opinions.

[Alan Stewart]

Most folks are happy with a std. 20” longshaft under the average conditions when you’d most likely be motoring vs. sailing. It’s true that choppy conditions may cause the prop to break the surface on occasion and cavitate, but it’s also possible to compensate to a degree by shifting crew weight aft.
With the outboard hanging so far aft of the rudder, a heavier 4-stroke (4,5 or 6hp), will tend to make the stern “squat” and also minimize the tendency to cavitate.
I’ve used a wide variety of outboards on Typhoons, from electric trolling motors to Honda 2,2.3 & 5hp, Yamaha 2.5 & 3hp, Mercury 3.5hp, Tohatsu 6hp. All got the job done, but when price & weight are prime concerns I still prefer the longshaft Honda 2 & 2.3 or the Yamaha 2.5 which offers a true “Neutral” vs. the centrifugal clutch on the Honda’s.
Having said all that, an older l/s 2-stroke can be a truly inexpensive option with power to spare!
Hope this helps...
If anyone is interested, I have a “like-new” 5hp Honda l/s for sale, as well as an OMC 4hp 4-stroke l/s in nice condition, and a 5hp Nissan 2-stroke l/s also. Contact me for details @ 843-450-2498.

[sciottos]

Thanks for your reply, Alan.

Hard to imagine a 4-6 hp outboard causing a 2,000 lb. sailboat - with nearly half that weight below the waterline - to 'squat'. Even a 4-stroke in that range is only 60-75 lbs. I suppose anything's possible.

I found a 4.5 long shaft (20") Johnson on craigslist nearby for $500; but leery on older 2-stroke engines which have been burning ethanol for years. I found a 43 year old 6 hp short shaft Johnson that was in brand new condition, with only a few hours on it; and it needed a carb kit because it was so gummed up with ethanol, it wouldn't even turn over.

How much for the Honda, and is it a 2 or 4 stroke?

I shouldn't need much horsepower. I'll only be coming in and out of Port Jefferson harbor, which is well-protected, though the LI Sound can get nasty at times.

[Alan Stewart]

I have a photo of 2 Typhoons rafted up side-by-side I can send you - both are empty (no crew), but one has a Tohatsu 6 hanging off the rear while the other has an electric trolling motor weighing 25 lbs., the trim of the 2 boats is so distinctly different that you have to look twice to believe it.
Bear in mind that the bronze o/b bracket is quite heavy as well, so yes, when you put close to 100 lbs. out beyond the taffrail of even a 2,000 lb Typhoon, the stern will squat and put the vessel off her lines - something that is impossible to detect when the boat is out of the water. BTW, the photo was taken last summer in Maine, and both boats belonged to me, so I can assure you that there were no other hidden weight factors involved, although the Typhoon with the trolling motor also had an oversized deep-cycle marine battery under the cockpit seat.

[sciottos]

Thanks, Alan and I’d love to see that photo!

My boat is the ‘K’ model - day sailer. No stowage under seats. This is why I’ve been looking for a motor with an integrated fuel tank.

A 4.5 Johnson long shaft with the integrated fuel tank is what the prior owner had - but he wouldn’t sell it with the boat!

Now I know why.

Thanks again,

Steve

[Steve Laume]

You can't go wrong with the 2.3 HP Honda. It is plenty of power to push the Typhoon along and they are extremely reliable. Not having a neutral has never been a problem. The internal fuel tank allows you to spin the motor right around for reverse or to move the stern sideways. You can spin the boat around in it's own length. The 20" shaft was only ever a problem when going to the bow with some waves. It would cavitate at times under those conditions.

I once bought a Ty with a 6HP motor. The PO added enough lead in the bow to trim the boat but it also brought her so far down on her lines that he had to eliminate the boot stripe. These boats are small enough that weight distribution is critical.

Since it is a day sailor, you are not going likely to be heading out when conditions would require you to motor for long periods of time. I would keep the motor as simple and light as possible to optimize the sailing characteristics of your fine little boat. 2 HP, or less, would be plenty of power. A trolling motor could work out well if your situation will support it. That is that you never plan to motor over longer distances. It's easy to bring an extra container of gas or buy it along the way. You also have to have an easy way to charge up batteries without schlepping them home.

For a more authentic look, you could go with a British Seagull, Steve.

[rjnale]

Hello
Very good info from both Alan and Steve and I agree with both.

I'd like to share my experiences for you to continue to weigh your options.

I'm sailing a Typhoon Daysailer Model K which replaced my Typhoon Weekender. I sail on Onondaga Lake in Syracuse NY and moor at a dock in a protected marina.

It's very very rare that I can sail in or out due to tight quarters with docks and short narrow curved channel to the lake.

The Weekender came with an older 1976 Johnson 4hp Sea Horse standard shaft. The motor weighed 49 lbs and separate gas tank. This motor was way too heavy for the boat and it didn't take much for the prop to break the surface even with the stern squatting in the water. I sold the boat and motor after 2 years. I found a Ty Daysailer!!!

The Typhoon Daysailer came with 1986 Johnson 4HP Sailmaster "long shaft" with a seperate tank. This motor comes in at 38 lbs according to the manual. The long shaft gave much better handling and control. With the weight of the bronze motor mount and 38lbs of motor the stern was squatting and looks awful hanging off the stern! I got the idea of pulling the motor and mount off while on the water to sail...real stupid idea once I get going on it!

For the last 4 years I have been using an electric trolling motor. The Minn Kota Endura Max 50 lb thrust, 36" shaft that weighs 26 lbs. The shaft is too deep but Walmart had it for $189 end of season price and box was opened, might have been returned. I couldn't pass it up regardless of length. I think you can find it around for $299 today.

I bring the battery home 2-3 times a season (late June-end Oct) to charge or bring my quick charger to the dock and top it off. I can run the motor at 3/4 top speed for 1 1/2 hours, which pushes the boat along really good clip in usual conditions and still have about 1/2 +/- the battery charge left. I find continuous use drains the battery faster. 5-10 mins use out and 5-10 mins back uses very little battery for the typical sailing situations.

I have one issue with the motor. In a 13-15 knot wind with a chop you better be going down wind or dead into the wind full power. If the bow falls off the wind too far, you'll have to circle around back up wind. But I think you may have the same problem with a 2 or 2.5 HP gas motor in those conditions with a Typhoon. You just don't have enough power to push the bow back up once she falls off too far with that much weight and momentum. Our prevailing winds for those conditions are usually S,SW,W, NW so I'm into the wind on leaving the marina channel. I just power into it till we are safely beyond the break wall and raise sail. Coming back in is a nice tail wind pushing us.

The shaft depth is adjustable so I run it "high" on the shaft adjustment. The motor head is higher up when using, but makes it easier to kick it up on the mount while sailing. Plus the low profile when kicked up and pulled in on the stern deck its out of the way.

Really think about the "normal" conditions of your sailing area, tides, current, typical wind speed and direction, waves or chop...

You may need more power for safe handling in your area.

I hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

Rick