CD 28 Roller Furl
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD 28 Roller Furl
Several conversations have been addressed for adding a Roller Furl system to the CD28 we have to convert it away from the hank-on jib...and the 80% club-footed jib and boom...
I did get a 150 Gen as hank-on, but the Admiral is already protesting about "wrestling that beast" even if I have described a downhaul and sail cover system for it.... we casually coastal sail, and no one yet has single-handed her, so I do not anticipate any great life-and-death struggle here; besides it will be a great new experience, etc...
What furlers / brands have folks done and been happy with ?
Additionally, has anyone stretched their CD28 fractional forestay rig to go full masthead...? ... And added roller furling ...?
Everyone says these boats are 'overbuilt' ... but I'd like to hear.... from this auspicious group...
Plans to step mast after this next season for inspection and road hauling is likely...
Best regards
Dana
I did get a 150 Gen as hank-on, but the Admiral is already protesting about "wrestling that beast" even if I have described a downhaul and sail cover system for it.... we casually coastal sail, and no one yet has single-handed her, so I do not anticipate any great life-and-death struggle here; besides it will be a great new experience, etc...
What furlers / brands have folks done and been happy with ?
Additionally, has anyone stretched their CD28 fractional forestay rig to go full masthead...? ... And added roller furling ...?
Everyone says these boats are 'overbuilt' ... but I'd like to hear.... from this auspicious group...
Plans to step mast after this next season for inspection and road hauling is likely...
Best regards
Dana
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
I am unaware of a fractional rig option offered on a CD28. Perhaps a previous owner has altered or replaced your rig? If you mean that the luff on your jib isn’t “full hoist”, i.e. the luff on your jib is noticeably shorter than the length of your headstay, it may indicate a previous owner asked a sailmaker to reduce the area of a replacement jib or a used jib was fitted which was “close enough”.D n L wrote:Several conversations have been addressed for adding a Roller Furl system to the CD28 we have to convert it away from the hank-on jib...and the 80% club-footed jib and boom...
I did get a 150 Gen as hank-on, but the Admiral is already protesting about "wrestling that beast" even if I have described a downhaul and sail cover system for it.... we casually coastal sail, and no one yet has single-handed her, so I do not anticipate any great life-and-death struggle here; besides it will be a great new experience, etc...
What furlers / brands have folks done and been happy with ?
Additionally, has anyone stretched their CD28 fractional forestay rig to go full masthead...? ... And added roller furling ...?
Everyone says these boats are 'overbuilt' ... but I'd like to hear.... from this auspicious group...
Plans to step mast after this next season for inspection and road hauling is likely...
Best regards
Dana
All of the modern roller furling equipment is pretty good. Everyone has their personal preferences, some based on intended use and some on cost. I have Harken roller furling units on both my headsails which I installed myself. I’m very satisfied with them.
I have seen CD28’s with the jib club removed and overlapping headsails used, both furling and hanked on. That’s another matter of personal preference. Be certain not to dispose of the club should you decide to remove it. The next owner may be very grateful.
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
I got a new furler for our CD27 Troika from CDI Furlers:
https://www.sailcdi.com
It was much less expensive that a Furlex replacement. It has its own internal halyard so there is no upper swivel. It has worked flawlessly for two seasons. You just have to be sure to support it well if you un-step the mast. We had ours installed by Doyle Sails on Long Island whom I would highly recommend.
https://www.sailcdi.com
It was much less expensive that a Furlex replacement. It has its own internal halyard so there is no upper swivel. It has worked flawlessly for two seasons. You just have to be sure to support it well if you un-step the mast. We had ours installed by Doyle Sails on Long Island whom I would highly recommend.
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
Jim W made me go back and rethink and review pix of my CD28 - he's correct - full masthead already - - it was only my club jib head that goes up to about 4 foot shy of the top... not the forestay...
I guess it's the chemo brain setting in.. ... ..oh well, Sailing On !
Much appreciated comments.... keep 'em coming !
I guess it's the chemo brain setting in.. ... ..oh well, Sailing On !
Much appreciated comments.... keep 'em coming !
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
I replaced the very sunbaked plastic furler on Femme when we got her in 2002 with a Harken MkIII Unit 1.5 and it has furled the genoa flawlessly each time from flat calm through 50 knots of wind. So I am a fan. Having said that I would also go with a pro furl
The current Harken MkIV Unit 0 should work for a 28. They are pricey but you may find them significantly less at a sail place. Sail Warehouse would be a place I'd try for a Profurl or CDI unit if you go that route.
FWIW I decided to replace with a furler and not go to hanked-on like I was used to largely due to the lack of good sail stowage space in the 33. We wanted the V berth for accommodations. Stowing the genny on the furler frees up room for a cruising chute and occasionally keep a smaller headsail, like a number 3, or 90-100% aboard below.
The current Harken MkIV Unit 0 should work for a 28. They are pricey but you may find them significantly less at a sail place. Sail Warehouse would be a place I'd try for a Profurl or CDI unit if you go that route.
FWIW I decided to replace with a furler and not go to hanked-on like I was used to largely due to the lack of good sail stowage space in the 33. We wanted the V berth for accommodations. Stowing the genny on the furler frees up room for a cruising chute and occasionally keep a smaller headsail, like a number 3, or 90-100% aboard below.
Paul
CDSOA Member
CDSOA Member
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- Posts: 3582
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- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
Dana
Well I would not try to talk you out of a jib furler if you want one for the right reasons. IMO, the right reasons are because it’s convenient and clears the foredeck. A furling jib is neither as effective aerodynamically nor is it as long-lasting as a hank on jib...all things considered equal. One is not better or worse than the other...just different.
I singlehand the Far Reach, a CD 36, a fair amount. She has a much taller rig than a stock boat. A lot, of my sailing includes night time offshore work. I’m not a Superman so if I can do it on a 36, a 28 is very doable.
I would say that a 150 is a big jib for any boat. My preference would be nothing bigger than a 130, max. A 100% is even better. After a 130, it makes more sense to fly a 1.5 -2oz drifter for light air sailing. You can fly the drifter as a jib or fly it free, kind of like an asymmetric spinnaker. Big jibs can be tricky to manage due to limited deck space. But technique is the key to sail handing hank-on jibs.
For example, if you are sailing upnwind and drop the jib you have to leave it sheeted in and “skirt” it over then inside the lifelines. That is very hard work on the Far Reach due to the size of the sail (about 400 sq ft) and the size of the loads being imposed on it to drive it to leeward while I try to skirt it to windward. Insead, I will tack the boat and not release the jib sheet. While the jib is sheeted across the foredeck (to windward), I walk to the mast and release the jib halyard and the jib falls to the foredeck vice into the water (I use the downhaul to pull the jib down if required. Often, the jib just falls to the deck on its own and I secure it to the lifelines with a couple sail ties. If sailing downwind, I’ll gyb if possible leaving the jib back-winded across the deck, then release the halyard and the sail comes down onto the foredeck just fine.
So, there are two techniques to get the jib down with minimal effort. When done correct it’s 90 percent technique and 10 percent strength. When done incorrectly, it can be just the opposite. I store my jib on deck in a sunbrella go-bag. It’s attached to the head stay and ready to go. When the boat is laid up for an extended period of the time, I remove it from the headstay, bag it, and take it home.
So a furler is fine, though expensive. It is not as areondynamic as a hank on jib. It is not as efficient. But, it is much more convenient. No doubt about it. Either option...to furl or not to furl...is a personal decision. There is no right or wrong, depending on the “why.”
Well I would not try to talk you out of a jib furler if you want one for the right reasons. IMO, the right reasons are because it’s convenient and clears the foredeck. A furling jib is neither as effective aerodynamically nor is it as long-lasting as a hank on jib...all things considered equal. One is not better or worse than the other...just different.
I singlehand the Far Reach, a CD 36, a fair amount. She has a much taller rig than a stock boat. A lot, of my sailing includes night time offshore work. I’m not a Superman so if I can do it on a 36, a 28 is very doable.
I would say that a 150 is a big jib for any boat. My preference would be nothing bigger than a 130, max. A 100% is even better. After a 130, it makes more sense to fly a 1.5 -2oz drifter for light air sailing. You can fly the drifter as a jib or fly it free, kind of like an asymmetric spinnaker. Big jibs can be tricky to manage due to limited deck space. But technique is the key to sail handing hank-on jibs.
For example, if you are sailing upnwind and drop the jib you have to leave it sheeted in and “skirt” it over then inside the lifelines. That is very hard work on the Far Reach due to the size of the sail (about 400 sq ft) and the size of the loads being imposed on it to drive it to leeward while I try to skirt it to windward. Insead, I will tack the boat and not release the jib sheet. While the jib is sheeted across the foredeck (to windward), I walk to the mast and release the jib halyard and the jib falls to the foredeck vice into the water (I use the downhaul to pull the jib down if required. Often, the jib just falls to the deck on its own and I secure it to the lifelines with a couple sail ties. If sailing downwind, I’ll gyb if possible leaving the jib back-winded across the deck, then release the halyard and the sail comes down onto the foredeck just fine.
So, there are two techniques to get the jib down with minimal effort. When done correct it’s 90 percent technique and 10 percent strength. When done incorrectly, it can be just the opposite. I store my jib on deck in a sunbrella go-bag. It’s attached to the head stay and ready to go. When the boat is laid up for an extended period of the time, I remove it from the headstay, bag it, and take it home.
So a furler is fine, though expensive. It is not as areondynamic as a hank on jib. It is not as efficient. But, it is much more convenient. No doubt about it. Either option...to furl or not to furl...is a personal decision. There is no right or wrong, depending on the “why.”
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
I can't say enough good things about the Alado furler I put on my CD27. IT was incredibly easy to instal and I can't see how it could ever fail. Best of all its the lowest priced furler that I could find.
I work for a sailboat supply store in Annapolis and my
answer to your question would depend on what type of sailing you plan to do. If you are strictly a lake, bay or coastal sailor, the CDI furler would be a good, cost-effective choice for you (although I would spend the extra $175 or so for the ball-bearing race instead of the standard plastic bushings). If you plan to go offshore or if you frequently encounter rough conditions, then I think Harken and Furlex are much better choices. Both units are bulletproof and function extremely well in tough conditions. I installed the Harken MKIV Code 0 on my Cape Dory 26 and I couldn't be happier with it. I would also point out that Matt Rutherford, who completed a year-long circumnavigation of the Western Hemisphere (without ever touching land!) a few years ago, was equipped with a Harken furler that he rated as the best piece of equipment on his boat.
Re: CD 28 Roller Furl
Roller furlers ,the way to go, No choice better than Harken. Have worked on many others that have failed due to various design weakness. Would not recommend pro furl. Invest in a Harken and enjoy..