Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

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Pete Zwiefelhofer

Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by Pete Zwiefelhofer »

My bow sprit has rot in two places, one of which is by a bolt. I am considering an epoxy repair. However, I am concerned about structural integrity since there is rot next to a bolt. If anyone has any thoughts on this I'd like to hear them.
My other option is to replace the white ash bow sprit with a new teak one. (The mast was dropped for winter storage.) However, the boat yard estimates it would cost $2,000 for them to do it! How hard is this job? Could someone with limited repair skills/experience (i.e., me) handle it? How hard is it to remove the old bow sprit? Is the bedding compound simply a sealtant (i.e., just to keep out the elements) or is it an adhesive? Will the bow sprit be easy to remove after unbolting it? Again, any thoughts would be appreciated.



pzwief@execpc.com
Jon Larson

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by Jon Larson »

Pete,

My 1981 CD30 PERI had to have her bowsprit replaced in 1988. The original white ash had rotted through by then and I had NO desire to take any chances with any potential weakness in a major structural component.

I had mine replaced at Old Lyme Marina on the Connecticut River in CT. They were able to do it while the boat was in the water. They put on a single teak plank bowsprit obviously made to the shape of the original. I think the teak plank at that time was $100 for the wood alone. Their comment about the old bowsprit was that once they had it off, they were amazed at the rot to be found under it. Until I saw what I thought was a blister in my new varnish, poked at it and put my finger into the bowsprit, I hadn't a clue that anything was wrong. If you're seeing a sign of rot, probably rest assured that the problem is worse than you think. The whole bill actually came out to $800 though I also had huge estimates at first.

I called Cape Dory when I found the rot to see if they'd stand behind the problem. By that time they were having their own troubles and there was no tangible support from them. I got the impression (I think it was Howard Means that I spoke with) that this was not the first problem with the white ash bowsprit. I also spoke with Andy Vavolitis who told me that while the white ash was a stronger bowsprit, the teak was more than adequate.

I couldn't be more relieved that I put a teak bowsprit on PERI.

Do it one way or the other. Having the mast fall down could really put a dent in your day.

Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay.
Pete Zwiefelhofer wrote: My bow sprit has rot in two places, one of which is by a bolt. I am considering an epoxy repair. However, I am concerned about structural integrity since there is rot next to a bolt. If anyone has any thoughts on this I'd like to hear them.
My other option is to replace the white ash bow sprit with a new teak one. (The mast was dropped for winter storage.) However, the boat yard estimates it would cost $2,000 for them to do it! How hard is this job? Could someone with limited repair skills/experience (i.e., me) handle it? How hard is it to remove the old bow sprit? Is the bedding compound simply a sealtant (i.e., just to keep out the elements) or is it an adhesive? Will the bow sprit be easy to remove after unbolting it? Again, any thoughts would be appreciated.


jon9@ix.netcom.com
Dave

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by Dave »

Pete Zwiefelhofer wrote: My bow sprit has rot in two places, one of which is by a bolt. I am considering an epoxy repair. However, I am concerned about structural integrity since there is rot next to a bolt. If anyone has any thoughts on this I'd like to hear them.
My other option is to replace the white ash bow sprit with a new teak one. (The mast was dropped for winter storage.) However, the boat yard estimates it would cost $2,000 for them to do it! How hard is this job? Could someone with limited repair skills/experience (i.e., me) handle it? How hard is it to remove the old bow sprit? Is the bedding compound simply a sealtant (i.e., just to keep out the elements) or is it an adhesive? Will the bow sprit be easy to remove after unbolting it? Again, any thoughts would be appreciated.
I replaced mine with teak. It is pretty easy. Did it in 3 - 4hours.
Only cost $200 - 300 for the teak. Sealeant is 5200. Was easy
to remove. Be carefu.l of the teak plugs on the toerail.
Pete Zwiefelhofer

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by Pete Zwiefelhofer »

I thanks for the responses. I plan to go ahead and install a new teak bow sprit. My question now is, do you think it best to use one piece of teak or would it be fine to fashion a bow sprit out of two pieces of teak? Thanks again.



pzwief@execpc.com
Jon Larson

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by Jon Larson »

My replacement teak bowsprit is a single plank. It has a shingle check that has developed over the years and I had a surveyor look at it, and it's no problem he opined. I notice the newer CD30s have laminated teak bowsprits, I would suspect that properly done that would give the greatest strength.

Good Luck!

Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay
Pete Zwiefelhofer wrote: I thanks for the responses. I plan to go ahead and install a new teak bow sprit. My question now is, do you think it best to use one piece of teak or would it be fine to fashion a bow sprit out of two pieces of teak? Thanks again.


jon9@ix.netcom.com
denny

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by denny »

I replaced the bow sprit on my CD28 last year. I used teak and made it from laminating ten 1" X 1 5/8" strips. I cut the strips from 1" thick rough cut teak plank. I used resorsinal glue. I wiped the teak down good with acetone prior to gluing to remove oils and used at least 4 or 5 pipe clamps to hold the mess together. When clamping I was careful to keep the stack straight/flat to avoid excess sanding/finishing. I applied a heavy amount of glue to both sides prior to clamping. All the wood strips don't need to glued at once.
When the assembly was dry I used a belt sander to flattten and finish both sides. I installed 1/4" stainless steel all-thread rods in each end to prevent checking and delimination points. Use a long 1/4" drill bit, counter sink and plug the nuts/washers. Use your old sprit to pattern bolt holes and/or trial fit and mark bolt hole location from holes in the deck. But double check prior to drilling. You may have to trim your toe rail depending on your sprit width. A hack saw blade works good.When every thing is trial fit sat.I apply good masking tape and plastic around the spirt, deck, and toe rail to catch the excess polysulfide. I applied about 1-1/2 tubes of boatlife polysulfide sealant coating both surfaces very liberally and bolts,washers. But prior to bedding the sprit I gave it about 4 coats, all over, of varnish. Rough up slightly the bedded area. Make sure you have a friend inside to tight the nuts while you hold the bolts, don't turn the bolts. I did not counter sink and plug my bolt heads but left them exposed over a good size washer. To me counter sinking weakens the joint and also invites a place for rot. Finish as nice as you like. Give the polysulfide a couple of days to frim up prior to pulling up the tape. Cut the polysulfide around the spirt and pull up the tape. Use a little laquer thinner to remove tape residue.
Things I would do different:
1. use epoxy glue in lieu of resorsinal glue when working with teak, due to the oil in teak. For other woods I would use resorsinal glue.
2. I would use white oak I lieu of teak for two reasons. The oak will cost 1/4 the price of teak (~$18.00/board or ~ 6 board feet). Secondly white oak is alot stronger and it is fairly good at rot resistance if well maintained. (should get 10 years plus with no problems)



denny@nations.net
John

Re: Bow Sprit Replacement - CD30

Post by John »

Pete Zwiefelhofer wrote: I thanks for the responses. I plan to go ahead and install a new teak bow sprit. My question now is, do you think it best to use one piece of teak or would it be fine to fashion a bow sprit out of two pieces of teak? Thanks again.
I would use one piece if I could BUT.... I would make damned sure it has a very tight grain structure. If not, laminate. Use epoxy as it is a gap filling adhesive to assist in securing integrity in the bonds. Most definately wipe down all gluing surfaces several times with liberal amounts of acetone. The more pieces in laminating usually equates to lower material cost, but the labor goes up - its a wash. I personaly would use teak dowels in the joints if laminating. You can make them yourself.
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