Seized Copper Domestic Water Valve CD31

[wsonntag]

The joys of re-commissioning after 2 years! One of the copper domestic water manifold valves seized closed, then of course old ham-hand broke the end of the petcock shaft. (see photo) The valve fitting itself can be removed and screws into the manifold fitting so I'm looking for a replacement. I did a search on this board before posting, did not see anything come up. Does anyone have ideas for source of this fitting? I'll be checking out internet search results too. This system has been very reliable for me over 20 years and I'd hate to have to start splicing in plastic where copper was used.

Thanks in advance,


Bill Sonntag

[psjanker]

Cut the pipe above the valve, leaving as much pipe as possible. Then sweat in another valve.....7 bucks and about 10 minutes....make sure to remove guts prior to heating. Another possibility is to disassemble and braze a new handle and shaft extension on but it’s likley not worth the effort if the prev one was that hard to turn. Recommend taking the others off and doing some preventive Maint or consider replacing all three.

V/r

Pete

[Randy Capstick]

Prior to cutting anything I would attempt to remove the stem valve by loosening the nut that surrounds the stem and try to work the stem off with vice grip pliers. If successful, just take that piece to the hardware store to ensure you get the exact replacement. If not successful, you can always replace the whole assembly as Pete suggests.
Randy

[wsonntag]

Thanks to both of you for your responses/advice. I think its all half inch copper stock, standard gate valves. I could use anyone's advice on this, is that the right dimension, spec? (one of the hardest things for me as a non-expert is getting the size right!). I easily backed off and removed actual the petcock; valve, shaft and handle from the fitting as suggested by Randy so I will try to simply swap a new one into the fitting before I replace the whole fixture.

Meanwhile the domestic water pressure pump has gone bad. No questions here, found a replacement right away. I thought at first it was an early service failure like five years or less, but looking at my receipts, I was surprised to find I installed it in 2007. Not bad service in my view given the pump diaphragms sit decommissioned, bathed in propylene glycol for 5 months a year! Guess I could take the pump out of the system each year but what a pain!!

Thanks again,

Bill Sonntag

[Randy Capstick]

Hi Bill,
If you easily got the shaft off without damage, simply replacing it should work for you. Make sure you take the shaft with you to the hardware store as there are multiple similar replacements available.
Good Luck,
Randy

[John Stone]

I have the original manifold off my CD 36 Far Reach. It appears it was built exactly the same way as your manifold. It is set up for four vice three tanks. But I’d be happy to give it to you. PM me if you are interested.

[wsonntag]

John:

Just sent PM.

Thanks

[John Stone]

I found it. It was in one of several boxes of CD hardware I took off the Far Reach during the rebuild. I got all kinds of stuff.

It has not been used in 17 years so I can’t vouch for its condition other than it looks fine and I don’t think there is much in there to go bad.

Let me know if this is what you are looking for.

John

[wsonntag]

John:

That looks like the right thing and in good condition. I sent surface mail shippping coordinates to you earlier via pm so you can send. If you need more info, please let me know and again of course I'll pay shipping.

Bill Sonntag

[Capt Hook]

A chicken in every pot, a car in every garage and a water tank beneath every berth.

I think Carl Alberg said that.

[Bill Goldsmith]

When I started having gate valve issues, I removed the entire manifold and made a new one using ball valves with 90 degree throw on the handles. Now I can tell if a valve is open or closed just by looking at it. A nice improvement/upgrade.

[bottomscraper]

Like Bill, I went with 1/4 turn ball valves. I also used real hose barbs rather than straight copper tubing for the hose connections. Clamping hose on straight tubing is wrong in my book, life if too short to spend time chasing down leaks.

[Frenchy]

Another possibllity:
http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 97#p196661

[Jim Walsh]

Another possibllity:
http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 97#p196661

Very neat solution Jean.