Removing and rebedding a stanchion base

[Jim Walsh]

After 34 years I found it necessary to remove and rebed the forward stanchion base for my boarding gate. The base is a substantial weldment and was in perfect shape. The 1/4" machine screw fasteners had bent and stretched slightly allowing the base to wobble.
I had to remove two pieces of trim in the galley to "expose" the fasteners. Expose is a euphemism at best. I could feel them but I certainly couldn't see them. Nor could I get both hands in there to work efficiently.
With a little help topside I was able to get a long socket wrench in the area and had to remove the nut 1/4 of a turn at a time. The threads were all gunked up with bedding compound and it was a fight all the way but it was also very satisfying to finally remove them.
Attached is a photo of the base and the hardware shortly after removal. Not showing in the photo are four stainless washers. Note that the base was well secured by the builders with aluminum backing plates.
I replaced all of the fastenings, but just used some sandpaper to get the aluminum backing plates shining like new and reused them. I used some stainless cleaner on the station base to get it shining once again.
When I cleaned the deck of the old bedding compound I found it still pliable and adhering tenaciously. The fastening holes in the deck had been properly beveled by the builder. They were cleaned up with a knife and a rat tail file to ensure I had a good bonding surface for the new bedding compound. I chose to use 3M 4000 UV, mainly because I had some left over from rebedding my midship hatch a couple years ago.
The stanchion base was reinstalled today and it is solid as a rock.

[John Stone]

Excellent work Jim. Great post.

[Frenchy]

Jim, one frustration I have is when I've spent $20 or so on a tube of caulk and less than a year later it's set up despite
a screw in the nozzle, tape and whatever else I can think of to seal it. Any tips on how you're able to preserve for two
years? - Jean

[Jim Walsh]

Jim, one frustration I have is when I've spent $20 or so on a tube of caulk and less than a year later it's set up despite
a screw in the nozzle, tape and whatever else I can think of to seal it. Any tips on how you're able to preserve for two
years? - Jean

My buddy was asking me the same thing yesterday. All I did was tape over the end of the nozzle and put it in a resealable freezer bag with most of the air squeezed out. Then I stored it in my basement. I had a tube of Lifecaulk stored this way also but it solidified after a year. Apparently the polyether lasts far longer than the polysulfide type caulks in the cartridge.

[John Stone]

That’s sort of what I do as well—insert a nail and tape off the tip. If more than a couple months gonby I usually have to use a scratch-awl to dig the hardened caulk out of the nozzle, then the compound will usually flow smoothly. Sometimes the solidification is too far along and it’s no good. I have not tried the freezer bag. That seems like a good idea. I might also try “cling wrap” like we use for left overs. I have had great luck with that approach for preserving varnish. I’m always interested in learning a better way. As usual, Jim is inspiring me to up my game.

[Frenchy]

Thanks, Jim - I'm going to try the large zip lock bags. - Jean

[Chrisa006]

I cut a finger from a surgical glove, put it on tightly then put a rubber band around it. Amazingly I can seal 5 tubes with one glove.