25D accomodations

[CaptPepa]

Greetings. Summer is just around the corner, even if we still have snow here in Nebraska. I hope to splash CD25D hull #164 by mid-May. I do have questions for those of you with experience. Let me just start with the galley table. The post that supports said table is mighty solidly fixed in my vessel. It would seem that this should not be the case, and if the top can be removed, then the pipe stand should also. I have been reluctant to attack it with a pipe wrench, not certain that it actually is supposed to be removable. So, will I do irreparable damage if I attempt to twist it out? Any tricks out there that I should know about? Thanks.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Captain Pepa:

Congratulations on your Cape Dory 25D. Of all of Carl Alberg's designs, his greatest was the Cape Dory 25D, the pride of the fleet.

The metal post is (or should be) removable from the floor base hole, unless a PO used 5200 to cement it in place. It is possible it has been in that position so long that it is "fused" in place. Gentle hammer taps, Liquid Wrench, etc., may help.

When not in use the table itself is stored in slots along the top of the starboard quarter berth. I put the metal post in one of the lockers underneath the starboard settee.

Again, congratulations and welcome to the wonderful world of Cape Dory Yachts

[RC James]

Seconding Roberto-
The tube is Stainless Steel, the top fits into the table fitting, which is (if memory serves) aluminum. I can imagine that, if the table has been mounted for a length of time, that the 2 metals may have some corrosion inhibiting removal.
-A rubber hammer, applied from below the table, in a random circular pattern close to the fitting should loosen it. It is a Purely Lift-Off attachment.
-The base of the post is the same.

PB40/ or any lubricant, and a little wiggling of the post should remove it, once the table-top is off.

There are no threads on either end to worry about damaging. Strictly a friction fit.

Hope this helps. And, the cabin will look much larger once you get that encumbrance out of the way.
RC

[CaptPepa]

Thanks to both of you. I have trolled this website long enough to recognize a few of you and have made a point to keep track of 25D caretakers. Hope to meet on the water some day. I'll have a few years of practicing in our inland ponds before heading out on the Big Blue Wet Thing. I'll tap tap wiggle wiggle the post with a little liquid persuasion.

[Nebe]

use a rubber strap wrench. or an adjustable oil filter wrench. if you use a pipe wrench, wrap something around the stainless tube so it won't scratch up that beautiful piece of cape dory hardware.

[Steve Kuhar]

Capt. Pepa,

I agree with all of the above except that while Carl Alberg was certainly a great boat designer, as a furniture designer, well, not so much.

The best tool to gain leverage for extracting the table is the table itself. By simultaneously pullng and twisting, one end or the other should break free. Hopefully it was at the cabin sole end, in which case you can take the umbrella shaped assembly to the dock, invert it and stand on it while repeating the twisting and pulling procedure. As long as you are on the dock I would recommend that the next step should be to carry the whole thing home and place it in storage to await the next owner.

If you don't follow my recommendation you have two options. Return it to its in use position where you will clamber around it twenty times for every time you actually use it, or store it where it will reduce quarterberth capacity and give you something to bang your head on every time you reach in there. The table leg itself can be stored on top of the table where it will remind you of its presence by rolling back and forth every time you tack.

If fine dining is an important part of your sailing plans I would ignore my suggestions, but personally I would rather just make a sandwich and eat it in the cockpit.

Steve Kuhar

[Neil Gordon]

The table legs are tapered and tend to jam, as well. Rocking the leg back and forth might break it free, but don'e overdo it.

One option is to remove the plate, with leg attached. It's easier to play with it that way, and you can put the leg in a vice and tap the plate.

If all goes badly and the plate breaks, replacements are available, with exactly the same bolt pattern.

[steveg]

You could try spraying some penetrating oil into the joint between the base and leg, then tapping on the base with something hard, a screwdriver or a pair of plyers, while you try to wiggle the base back and forth. Hopefully the oil and vibration will permit it to come free. This is a combination of some of the previous suggestions.

You could also apply heat from a heat gun to the base as well. If it does not immediatly free itself come back on a different day after the oil has some time to work.

[CaptPepa]

Thanks to all. Reassurance that, indeed, the post is not intended to stand in the middle of the cabin on it's own encourages me to attempt the more aggressive approaches mentioned. This weekend, penetrating oil in hand, I shall again attack the problem. Of course, only one of a dozen or so projects that require my attention.

[Sea Hunt Video]

The table legs are tapered and tend to jam, as well. Rocking the leg back and forth might break it free, but don'e overdo it.

One option is to remove the plate, with leg attached. It's easier to play with it that way, and you can put the leg in a vice and tap the plate.

If all goes badly and the plate breaks, replacements are available, with exactly the same bolt pattern.

Neil: I think on most, if not all, of the CD 25Ds the table leg is just one metal (s/s?) tube (3" diam?). There is a hole in the cabin sole for it to sit in. There is also a female receptacle on the bottom of the table.

You may be thinking of the fold down tables on a Cape Dory 28 and many other CD models that have fold out tapered wood legs.

Think launch day

P.S. For those (John S.) who might be interested Red Sox are 9-1; Cardinals are 5-6

[Neil Gordon]

You may be thinking of the fold down tables on a Cape Dory 28 and many other CD models that have fold out tapered wood legs.

Nope. I have a table that's mounted on two tubes that fit into receptacles in the sole. Mine would get stuck all the time.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Neil:

Sorry. When you referenced "tapered" legs in your initial post I thought you were talking about the tapered wood legs on some Cape Dory tables.

On S/V Bali Ha'i I have what I think is the original single metal tube that is positioned "off center" on the underside of the table. I do not believe it is tapered but, as we all know, I ain't no expert.

I have been fortunate that it has not (yet) gotten stuck in the floor receptacle. Of course, I have several other pieces of equipment that are (or were) stuck. I still have three (3) seacock handles that are stuck/frozen - 2 in the "open" position and 1 in the "closed" position.

[Joe Myerson]

I agree that careful twisting and lifting, along with application of some penetrating oil if necessary, should do the job. BTW, one really nice feature of this little table is the way it will fit across the aft end of the cockpit. Just raise the tiller, place the table, and you and a companion will have a nice table for evening cocktails or even an al fresco meal.

Once you free the table, it's a good idea to store it in the slots described by Roberto until you want to use it. And don't store the table mounted in the cabin sole during off-season lay-up.

Good luck!

--Joe