C36 Anchor Locker

[Skylark]

The v-berth gets wet when sailing to windward in weather. Water comes in from waves and spray. Most of this is from the windlass which is mounted just behind the bowsprit and drops the chain only a few inches toward of the bulkhead. I believe the solution is to add a tube at the windlass opening to drop the chain lower and a little further forward in the locker. Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures?

[Chrisa006]

Somewhere online I just read a detailed description of someone doing that. I will see if I can find it as I cannot remember where it was.

[Skylark]

The nautical term is "spurling pipe"... I'm thinking about doing this with a fiberglass exhaust tube.

[John Danicic]

That situation happens with Mariah's Chain locker as well.

The solution would be some kind of pipe, not too long so that it interferes with the chain piling up but long enough to direct the spray and running water downward. Attachment of the "spurling pipe" would have to be robust and secure. A difficult space to work to install and it could be prone to clogging.

A better solution might be some kind of canvas windlass cover that plugs up the windlass. A cover would have to be well attached to stay in place and be effective in heavy seas. I did once try a wad of window insulation clay to plug up the windlass, it did the job with the bulk of the water as far as I could tell but it was messy to remove after it got wet. As I have a vertical electric windlass, I think water gets in around the gypsy and finds its way down the chain hole. A cover would help with that as well.

[tjr818]

The latest issue of Cruising Word has an article on doing this. They did not date this issue, but it is 2018 and they call it the D-I-Y isssue.

[John Stone]

I rebuilt my anchor locker to better stow the anchor chain and eliminate water getting below through the chain pipe.

1. I rebuilt the chain locker and moved it about about 18” further aft. I build a second locker forward of the chain locker just for rope.

2. I installed the windlass on a thick teak riser block to raise it and the opening of the chain pipe further off the deck. This makes it less like water will get below.

3. I installed a grey PVC chain pipe to direct the chain down into the middle of the locker.

4. We designed and installed an anchor chain bag made of heavy duty stamoid waterproof fabric. The chain fits into the bag. The bag can be removed for cleaning. The corners of the bag are secured to bronze padeyes.

5. My wife sewed up a cover for the windlass made out of sunbrella. It’s reinforced with heavy duty chrome-tanned leather.

6. We have a bronze chain pipe cover we use when off-shore. When it’s installed no water gets below. It has a gasket. It also has a ring underneath we secure, via a lanyard, to an eyebolt in the chain locker bulkhead. We remove the chain from the anchor and seal off the opening to the chainpipe by installing the chain pipe cover. When not offshore, we don't use the chain pipe cover...and we don’t get water below as long as the windlass cover is installed over the windlass.

In summery, it’s a system. We always install the cover over the windlass even at anchor. Offshore we remove the chain from the anchor and employ a bronze chain pipe cover to completely seal the locker from water getting below.

We have never had a problem with the chain get tangled up in the chain locker. The chain pipe and deep locker bin works perfectly to sufficiently "self-lay" the chain in a manner that seems to eliminate tangles.

The windlass install and chain locker layout is described in the link below. There are a number of pictures. Scroll down about 1/3 of the way to find the details of the windlass and chainpipe.
http://www.farreachvoyages.com/project ... dware.html

[JD-MDR]

Now I see a problem I have with the installation of my windlass. The chain hawse hole was about 1-1/2" off but I didn't correct it. I just bored another hole so now I have two three inch holes. The bowsprit covers it all and i used plenty of sealant but If I had a nice three inch hole I could plug it from underneath with one of those rubber compression plugs that plumbers use. Sailing locally I don't need to worry. I plan to make a canvass and vinyl cover but I like John's idea to disconnect the anchor and plug the hole when the sailing rough weather or outside waters. My hopes of sailing to Hilo, Kodiak and back to LA is seeming more and more likely. I have a three or four years to prepare still. I have to be here till my father passes on. I think I can fix the fiberglass from underneath so I can plug it. I still have many more important things to do. Good thing I enjoy this type of work.

[JD-MDR]

I'm at the boat now and decided to add some photos.the windlass is several inches above the deck. A little water can get in with the rode and a minimal amount of rain and spray but it should be dry with a good cover. I can plug the hole with a 3" plug like the photo. You guys got me going now. I can finish my chain locker since it won't cost anything. Finishing the chain plates is the next expense.Very soon

[JD-MDR]

Another photo just for entertainment: Christmas presents, curtains from my oldest sister,pillows from the second and a blanlet from the youngest and girl scout cookies from my niece.

[John Stone]

Very nice. If you can put your windlass in a 1.5"-2" riser block and make the cover long enough to go all the way down around the riser block to the surface of the bowsprit, 95 percent of your problems regarding unwanted water getting below will be solved.

[Skylark]

I did improve the drainage in the port locker by cutting holes in the floor. (used for a three strand rode). The edges of the ply were then coated with tung oil.

[John Stone]

Very good. I recommend you do one of two things. Do away with the bowline as you can’t untie it when it’s under load—replace it with a round turn and two half hitches which you can untie under load. Or connect the three strand to a 1/4” or 5/16” double braid, that you secure to a strong fitting below, about 15’ long that you can cut on deck quickly with a knife should you need to let the bower go in a hurry.

[JD-MDR]

I'm thinking of putting a plywood in mine also with some way to access under with the vacuum or just a rag or something. My locker slopes forward so It can't drain at all. P.S. Ordered new sails yesterday from Ullman, new club jib, Mainsail with Tides strongtrack and new Mizzen. Got the cabin, deck and cockpit all painted ,three or four coats. I'll post photos soon. It looks nice and clean but nothing like an expert job. but I only spent $200and three days work. The yard quoted me about $6000