Cape Dory 30 - Considering Purchase

[David Feibush]

I am new to the Cape Dory Owner's Association website and am considering purchasing a mid-80's Cape Dory 30 Cutter. It's not the version with the head in the bow, but rather a v-berth. I was wondering if there is anyone in the association that could point me to any prior message threads that highlight design or unusual maintenance issues on this model. Even better would be to speak on the phone.

Separately, could anyone recommend a good marine surveyor and rigger in the western Long Island Sound area (preferably Hudson Valley or Connecticut)?

Thank you very much for your guidance.

Regards,

Dave

[Chrisa006]

I will be interested in who you find for a surveyor.

Steven Laume on this forum should be able to help you with answers, as well as may others.

You will find belonging here
as a Cape Dory owner is priceless

[David Feibush]

Thank you very much Chris. Much appreciated!

Dave

[Paul D.]

Dave,

I cannot comment specifically to the CD30 but I do know some who have the boat and maybe have some 101 advice. First, I would search this board for the following and try to get specific to the CD 30, but know most if not almost all of Cape Dories are very similarly built hull wise (not including Intrepids and the 45) and they will have similar issues in boats that are 30-40 years old.

In addition to usual old boat stuff like condition of engine and sails, rigging, for a CD30 I would be specific with the surveyor to look at deck core issues, including the cockpit sole, rudder moisture and any hull damage. Those would be the big items for me. Just about anything else I would prefer to deal with somehow.

Good luck,

[nessie]

Searching the forums (CD30, or CD30C) will keep you reading for a while. They built roughly 400 of them. Plenty of info out there. I am not aware of any huge problem with the design.

We have owned one for 7 years and have found our 1984 CD30 to be simple, rugged and relatively inexpensive to own.

I tend to shop down the right side of the menu, but when it comes to boats, you might consider shopping a little longer or even paying a bit more for one that you think has had better care.

Best of luck!
Ted

[Maine_Buzzard]

Look for one with a new(er) engine. Repowering is more expensive and involved with the V drive.

Pick up a moisture meter and learn how to use it. Find a boat with dry decks, then have it surveyed.

Read all the Don Casey books.

Sail it for a year before making significant changes.

Convince the current owner to sail a bit with you, maybe a short trip from Maine to Connecticut.

[Neil Gordon]

>>Look for one with a new(er) engine. Repowering is more expensive and involved with the V drive. <<

Repowering is expensive with or without a V drive!

[Frenchy]

One other item not mentioned so far: check for the condition of any mild steel reinforcements in the bow or stern
chainplate attachment areas and also the chainplate reinforcement along the side decks. You can often see the
reinforcement at the top of lockers inside. If the owner permits, you could even unscrew some of the headliner
along the bottom of side decks to get a better view. Good luck with your survey and (hopefully) purchase.
These are wonderful boats. - Jean

[Bob Ohler]

Regardless of which CD30 for decide on, know that they sail like a dream! We are 18 years into owning CD30 #335 and we love her more than ever after thousands of miles cruising the Chesapeake.

They will take the weather, sometimes better than the crew.

Fair winds,

Bob O.

[Carl Thunberg]

Adding to Jean's comment on mild steel, the bracket holding the steering quadrant is also mild tubular steel, and it's in an area under the cockpit sole that's difficult to inspect. I agree with Bob. They are a joy to sail! I'm not a big fan of the early CD30s with worm gear steering.

[jbenagh]

Here's what I would look for. Almost all is fixable if you want. The corrosion issues are the most expensive/time consuming.

1) On the steering quadrant, much of the rust can be invisible. On mine, the part about to fail was the plate directly under the pedestal. The corrosion was between the deck and the plate and was not so visible (I found it when I had to remove the pedestal to replace the cockpit core). Be wary of any evidence of moisture or rust.

2) Chainplate corrosion. Expect surface corrosion on the bracket in the anchor locker; this is easily cleaned up. Be wary of serious corrosion there. Also look carefully, with a mirror and small flashlight at the shroud chainplates.

3) Mast step. Look for evidence (staining, etc) here due to badly bedded connections through the deck.

4) Assess the condition of the fuel tank. These are replaceable by a competent DIY but a bit of a pain.

5) Holding tanks will be 30-40 years old. It's very difficult to replace the hoses without cracking the fittings at this point. Expect to find some leaks.

6) Seacock backing plates are plywood and that had begun to fail.

7) look out for poor DIY electrical work, especially behind the panel and at the batteries. Easily fixed but could be a hazard. A couple boats I looked at had issues.

8) all the core issues others have indicated. My cockpit sole was wet in some places when I purchased but they didn't become a serious problem until the boat wintered outdoors with freeze/thaw cycles.

On the other hand, these are fantastic boats! I wouldn't trade her.

Jeff

[David Feibush]

All,

I just wanted to thank you so much for the thoughtful and helpful responses, all of which will help focus the surveyor and me. What a wonderful association you have. I was battling with the flu for about a week, so I'm finally able to catch up now. Really happy to hear that folks are generally happy with this model and there are no insurmountable issues. But, I will dig into the forums more using the "CD 30" search tip that you suggested.

Chris - in regards to your question on surveyor selection, I received two referrals - (1) Adrian Johnson from Johnson Marine Surveyors and (2) Buddy Hitchcock from Hitchcock Marine Services.

Thank you all again. I may have some follow-up questions on specific issues, but for now, this is more than enough to keep me busy. Stay warm and have an enjoyable weekend!

Regards,

Dave

[nessie]

Mine is now for sale and I am motivated to sell her.

[Chrisa006]

Mine is now for sale and I am motivated to sell her.

Please email me info and pictures if Dave isn't interested.

chrisa006 at yahoo dot com

[David Feibush]

She is a beautiful boat and if I lived closer to New Hampshire, I would definitely want to take a look at her. Unfortunately, that is a bit far. Best of luck with the sale.