bowsprit for 30K

[JD-MDR]

Here is a photo of my bowsprit, I'm hoping for comments and suggestions. From what I've gathered It seems that laminated strips of teak would be the best looking and durable enough.I'm thinking about 1-1/2" strips .I think the grain has to be vertically. and should I use west epoxy? My main question is how to put the bow roller so I can put a horizontal windlass later on. I was thinking of the Lewmar Profish 1000 freefalling windlass and one of their rollers suitable for my 30# CQR . I need to install the sprit now but won't be able to afford the windlass till next year

[Jim Walsh]

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34356
This link leads to some images of a replacement bowsprit constructed for a CD28.

[jbenagh]

My CD30 bowsprit has bronze rods through the teak boards, perpendicular to the grain. They are plugged with teak bungs on either side. I'm not sure how many rods there are though.

Jeff

[JD-MDR]

I got 10'- 8/4 teak $430 for two 2 x 6 boards. Oh Oh, Did I cut the grain the wrong way? I'm gonna use it anyway. I hope it OK..I'm starting to laminate them now... Here a later photo for your entertainment. I hope I'm doing it good. I wet it down and then spread a thickened goo. I hope I don't have to sand to much. The stock is 1-13/16 and the old piece is 1-11/16. I'm making it a little wider to make sure I can get the bow roller 3-1/8" to one side like what Hilbert has. I don't know what I'm gonna do for the windlass cuz that mount for the little boom might be in the way. Whats it called? club foot, or something.

[hilbert]

John, this is where I mounted the windlass when I rebuilt the bowsprit.
The chain from the windlass now falls down a tube just inside the v-berth and sits lower than before.



Jonathan

[JD-MDR]

Here is the new sprit, I was wondering if I should wait and varnish when its in place ? would it be a better bond to the deck with bare wood? I plan to put 4- 3/8" bronze rods thru like Jeff mentioned. I'll deal with the roller later and the hole for the chain to drop thru.
JOHN D

IMG_20170419_073618.jpg (1.13 MiB) Viewed 997 times

[hilbert]

The rods are probably a good idea since teak's natural oiliness repels most glues/epoxies. I believe that the primary function of the sealant is to keep water from running under the bowsprit and down the fasteners, but it is the function of the fasteners to attach/bond the bowsprit to the deck. In any case, it should be easier to varnish before installation.

The jib boom rises up at an angle from the pedestal, however it might not rise enough to clear a windlass that is too close.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Hllbert. Is it Jonathon?. It looks like plugging that hole for the anchor chain and moving it is more than I'm prepared for. Maybe I can fit a low profile horizontal windlass. I'm determined to have a windlass. When I worked on fishing boats sometimes I would have to pull the anchor 10 times a day. I hate it. Especially when not sure if it set in good bottom or maybe got too close to another boat. With the windlass It s not so bad to pull it and move.

[jbenagh]

Christine C's bowsprit has 4 bronze rods:

two are at the forward most end, about 4in apart
one is roughly in the middle of the sprit, centered between the cutout areas
one is just forward of where it meets the toe rail

When I installed the Spartan bow roller I cut through one at the forward end. I believe it was 3/8 or 7/16 diameter but that's remembering back a bit.

Jeff

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Jeff, I ordered some bronze rod from Jamestown distributors. $65 for 36"- 3/8" rod. I'll try to follow the same pattern you have assuming that is the engineers design. By the time I'm finished I'll have close to $1000 in this bowsprit project. I don't intend to reuse the Spartan roller I don't want to cut out the sprit and I want one of those stainless units Like Hilbert has. I hope to go Up To San Fran this weekend .The yard is making the bow plate out of g-10 and they are still thinking of how to remake the side backing plates, I'm wondering if I can do something from composite or carbon fiber (I don't know anything about it) All comments welcome Thanks

[JD-MDR]

I am planning to finish my bowsprit this weekend and was wondering if I should remove all hardware before varnishing and should the hardware be bedded with something. There was no bedding when I took it off. Since I have two quarts of Epiphanes I thought I might clean up the cockpit coamings and toerail as well . Is there something I can use as a filler for some of the wood is pretty weathered and some grain is open pretty wide. It would take a million coats of varnish to fill. Replacing the wood is not going to happen but I figured I can make it look and feel good without spending very much. I've gone thru some previous posts and find so many different opinions so I would just appreciate some updated suggestions.Thanks .I might post photos Monday.
JGD

[tjr818]

Remove hardware, varnish, and bed the hardware! That is my vote.

[c1josh]

I know this thread is older, but this should be in any discussion of varnishing wood.

Before varnishing the wood should be sealed with a coat or two of epoxy. This stabilizes the wood by filling the surface pores with a material that is much stronger than varnish. The varnish protects the epoxy (and wood) from UV degradation, and the epoxy keeps the weak varnish from cracking and letting water through to the wood. This method reduces the amount of yearly varnishing to a manageable level.

-Josh

[tjr818]

I'm with Josh on this. Years ago I made San Francisco Great Pelican out of Mahogany plywood, I sealed it all with epoxy and then four coats of varnish. The finish was still great many years later when I got rid of her.