Getting a roller furling jib

[tom ricks]

I've been persuaded that I need to put a roller furling jib on my Typhoon. I've never had one and know nothing about them. I have some questions:

--What's the best way to go about it? Should I look for a furler/jib package, or best to buy separately?

--Any brand names to recommend?

--I see there are different sized jibs I can get. Again, I'd welcome thoughts on what size.

--I've got a nice genny, and an OK regular jib. Do I have to just stop using them once I have the new rig?

I sail single-handed mostly, always in Penobscot Bay. I just decided that at 62 I am too old to be bouncing around on the bow hanking the jib on.

Thanks,
Tom Ricks

[hinmo]

CDI furler, includes all you need. I am "in the same boat" as you ....over 60 and need simplicity. Just added one to my CD25. Take your jib to a local sailmaker and have them cut the hanks off and add the currect size tape for the chosen furler to your current jib.

http://www.sailcdi.com/

[robh]

Just basically seconding a lot of what hinmo stated.

A sailmaker can remove the hanks and add a furling strip/tape to the genoa/jib luff. You typically don't have to buy new sails just for this. The only 'gotcha' for this is some genoa's have luff panels installed, so when the larger genoa is furled, the luff folds nicely for airflow. Even without those panels, you can still simply furl in your genoa rather than put on your jib.

Most headsails constructed for furling systems also can incorporate a UV cover along the outside leech, so when its furled entirely, the sail material is protected. It is my understanding that having that added AFTER sail construction tends to be expensive, compared to just the hank to furler conversion. You may want to look at getting a jib sock to cover it so you don't have to remove your headsail when docked/moored.

The first time the boat is really bouncing around in wind and waves, and you can simply furl your headsail while still sitting at the tiller, you'll be pleased ;]

[Bibster]

hanks cut off and then having the luff tape installed in their place. The installation of the roller furling will shorten the amount of "usable" luff you have (because the drum, toggle and other hardware can sometimes take up more than a foot of length) and, if your current jib/genoa is longer than the new luff, you would also have to have the sail cut to match the new luff. Conversely, if the luff of your jib/genoa is too short for the new luff with the roller furling, you will have to install a wire pendant on the head or foot to ensure that the sail will furl properly. To give you an idea of costs, the shop where I work here in Annapolis charges $8.50 a foot to install luff tape (that price includes the tape) and $12.00 a foot to install the UV cover (and that price includes the Sunbrella material). The UV strip will run along the entire leech and foot of the sail. One other consideration is that even if you don't need to modify your existing sail to make it fit, it still won't provide optimal performance on your new roller furling. If it is within your budget, I would advise ordering a new sail at the same time you get the furler. Most places will offer you a special package price.

[casampson]

I priced out a roller furling jib for my Typhoon at a local sailmaker with a good reputation, and this is how he replied:

"The new jib should be a 130% roller furling head sail. It requires U.V. cover protection for the area along the leech and the foot that are exposed when the sail is furled in. To make the sail more versatile and and stable when reefed down 10% or 20% it should be fitted with a foam luff, which helps the sail keep it's proper shape when reduced in higher wind conditions. The sail complete with the foam luff, Sunshield, tell tales and sail bag is $980."

He also recommended Hood and Schaefer for the roller furling units; he felt the CDI was not robust enough. He was willing to supply everything and give me a 10% discount if I did the work over the winter. I decided not to do it at the time, but may reconsider for next year.

[hinmo]

"CDI was not robust enough."

hmmm, third one I've owned and used in blustery Buzzards Bay, no problems here with the CDI...

[Sea Hunt Video]

When I decided to install a furler on S/V Bali Ha'i (CD 25D) I narrowed it down to Harken, Schaefer and CDI.

A very respected rigger in Miami told me he would not install a CDI furler - not robust enough. He said he would install Harken, Schaefer, ProFurl, etc. When I posted this comment some time ago someone suggested the rigger probably gets a commission off the sale of the others but not CDI. I don't know. I trusted the rigger and I have been happy. He installed a Harken Mark II.

On the flip side, one of our local sailing clubs has a small (7) fleet of Harbor 20s that are used on weekend races around the cans. The club owner purchased CDI furlers. From my experience the furlers were regularly abused by both experienced and inexperienced (me) sailors. I never heard of one failing.

Tom, my guess is you would be happy with any of the well known brands. Unless you are going to do the installation yourself you may want to decide on a rigger and then let him/her guide you on a suitable furler, Genoa/jib, etc.

I have enjoyed several of your books. "Pages turners"

[Neil Gordon]

Don't ask me what they might have changed, but I'm up to about 20 years on my CDI furler. It does what it was designed to do.

[pjust]

First, I'd say that the decision to go with a roller furling jib is one you won't regret, especially if, like me, you do most of your sailing single-handed. The ability to reef the jib to suit conditions is a terrific asset. Along with the roller furler, however, you will want to install a sliding track for you jib sheet blocks. That will allow you to adjust the angle of the sheet to the size of the jib, which has a significant effect on the efficiency of the sail, including how close into the wind you can point. (Oh, yes, nothing in sailing comes cheap.)

Second, I have the impression that the Schaefer SnapFurl is the most common furler newly installed on Typhoon-sized boats today. My Ty came with a CDI Flexible Furler 1, which has, I believe since been superseded by the Flexible Furler (wait for it) 2. It has performed admirably for me, and I recommend it. It's certainly up to the demands of a CD Typhoon.

Third, all the advice about sunshields is not to be ignored. UV light degrades contemporary sailcloth at an alarming rate. And be sure, by the way, that when you rig the furler, it winds so as to cover the sail with the sunshield. My sail was all white and I had the nasty experience of having the furler rigged to wind the wrong way 'round, so that the sunshield was on the inside. By the end of a year or two the sail began to shred at the luff and had to be replaced (ouch). My sailmaker put a colored "sunbrella" shield on the replacement genoa (135%), which not only looks handsome as it matches my mainsail cover, but assures me it's been properly rigged. If you're looking to get a new jib and have it rigged, or get an old jib fitted to a new furler, I highly recommend Pope Sails in Rockland (as I recall you're a PenBay sailor). Doug Pope is a terrific guy who stands by his work.

[Bibster]

They aren't designed for offshore use or for sustained use in heavy winds and rough conditions, but given the size of your boat and the fact that you intend to remain in the Bay, a CDI furler will be more than adequate. The prices of the CDIs are significantly lower than the Harken, Hood, Schaefer or Furlex units and you could apply the money you saved by buying a CDI towards the purchase of a new sail. We sell several CDI furlers a year and I have never heard of anybody having a problem with their units.

[tom ricks]

Thanks to all of you. This is very helpful.
With appreciation,
Tom Ricks

[Neil Gordon]

They aren't designed for offshore use or for sustained use in heavy winds and rough conditions, but given the size of your boat and the fact that you intend to remain in the Bay, a CDI furler will be more than adequate. The prices of the CDIs are significantly lower than the Harken, Hood, Schaefer or Furlex units and you could apply the money you saved by buying a CDI towards the purchase of a new sail. We sell several CDI furlers a year and I have never heard of anybody having a problem with their units.

Can you be more specific about what parts of the CDI system are not robust enough?

[Bibster]

Can you be more specific about what parts of the CDI system are not robust enough?

I am referring to the PVC foil, the plastic drum and the use of nylon bushings instead of bearing races (although one can order a system with proper bearings for about $75 more for the smaller units (FF1 and FF2) and about $150 more for the larger units). I am also not a fan of CDI's internal halyard for offshore use. On the positive side, the internal halyard prevents halyard wrap, but on the negative side, if it ever got jammed inside the foil while you were offshore, you would have a devil of a time getting your foresail down and it would be extremely difficult (maybe impossible) to repair while underway. This happened to one of our customers earlier this year and we had to send somebody to dismantle his system and repair the problem. Fortunately, he was sailing in the Chesapeake Bay on a calm day and was close to home, so it was a manageable situation. And, to be fair, his CDI unit was well over a decade old and obviously hadn't seen a lot of maintenance, so I really don't blame the design or the unit components for the failure. But, knowing that it happened would make me hesitant to stray too far from shore with one of those units installed on my boat.