CD 30 leak below seacock

[Jim]

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.



otter777@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Yeah, I believe that it's time to put her in slings, and get her hauled to take care of this problem. The seacock will have to be removed from the thru-hull first, then the thru-hull has to be removed to allow the teak backing pad to be pulled up and cleaned up, then the thru-hull and backing plate can be recaulked and put back into place.

Good Luck!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

demers@sgi.com

[Al Levesque]

...Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull.

Until you can clearly inspect the thru hull fitting, you should also consider the possibility that the fitting has corroded. If that happens, there may not be much holding it together. Good luck.

Al



albertlevesque@cove.com

[Jim]

Larry thank you for your reply. If one of the thru-hulls is leaking does that mean that the others are soon to follow? If so would it be recommended to do all of them at this time?

Yeah, I believe that it's time to put her in slings, and get her hauled to take care of this problem. The seacock will have to be removed from the thru-hull first, then the thru-hull has to be removed to allow the teak backing pad to be pulled up and cleaned up, then the thru-hull and backing plate can be recaulked and put back into place.

Good Luck!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

Otter777@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Well, it would certainly be one of my concerns. It depends on what is found when the first thru-hull is removed. I would be looking at the others very critically.
Removing a thruhull/seacock is not a trivial job either. Let us know how it goes!!

Best of Luck,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~Lake Superior~~

Larry thank you for your reply. If one of the thru-hulls is leaking does that mean that the others are soon to follow? If so would it be recommended to do all of them at this time?

Yeah, I believe that it's time to put her in slings, and get her hauled to take care of this problem. The seacock will have to be removed from the thru-hull first, then the thru-hull has to be removed to allow the teak backing pad to be pulled up and cleaned up, then the thru-hull and backing plate can be recaulked and put back into place.

Good Luck!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

demers@sgi.com

[Bill DeCamp]

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

;Jim we had the same problem on our 1983 CD28,we hauled out last year and replaced two bad backing plates.The center piece of the thru hull screws out of the valve body,then remove the two bronze machine screws and the backing plate.We replaced with marine plywood that I soaked in spar varnish,there is a plastic material that boat builders use if you have any near you,use 3M101 bedding.The factory 3M101 was still plyable after seventeen years on our CD.Good Luck
Bill DeCamp
CD28 Infinity hull#342



tocoiriverrats@aol.com

[maurice]

I purchased a 1978 Bristol 40 last year and found at haul out this Fall the port cockpit thru hull was corroded. I made the decision to replace all 8 thru hulls, seacocks, and, the below-the-waterline hoses. After 22 years and looking at that bad thru hull, I decided not to take any chances. If one is visually bad, perhaps others have some problems that are not visible. It will be a pain to do, expensive, but, I'll sleep better at night...when I am on board as well as not. : To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?

I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

mllyely@aol.com

[Jim]

Thanks everyone for responding. The boat yard is recommending that the teak backing boards be replaced with fiberglass. There reasoning is that the wood rots over time thus causing the leaks, and the glass will not rot. Seemed like a good idea at first, until I thought that maybe wood was used in the past so that it will expand and seal leaks. Of coarse it has not sealed this one but after 20 yrs who knows it sealed up until now. Any thoughts or comments? I have not been able to check the condition of the metal through hulls, yet since the yard is full and they will not be able to pull her for a week.

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

otter777@aol.com

[Jim]

Thanks everyone for responding. The boat yard is recommending that the teak backing boards be replaced with fiberglass. There reasoning is that the wood rots over time thus causing the leaks, and the glass will not rot. Seemed like a good idea at first, until I thought that maybe wood was used in the past so that it will expand and seal leaks. Of coarse it has not sealed this one but after 20 yrs who knows it sealed up until now. Any thoughts or comments? I have not been able to check the condition of the metal through hulls, yet since the yard is full and they will not be able to pull her for a week.

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

otter777@aol.com

[Carl Jones]

Thanks everyone for responding. The boat yard is recommending that the teak backing boards be replaced with fiberglass. There reasoning is that the wood rots over time thus causing the leaks, and the glass will not rot. Seemed like a good idea at first, until I thought that maybe wood was used in the past so that it will expand and seal leaks. Of coarse it has not sealed this one but after 20 yrs who knows it sealed up until now. Any thoughts or comments? I have not been able to check the condition of the metal through hulls, yet since the yard is full and they will not be able to pull her for a week.

To my horror when I went to sail Delta Dawn on Saturday the bilge was full of water. The electric pump is not working so I have been pumping the water out manually every 10 hours. Water is comming in between the strenthing board under the seacock and the hull. Does anyone know how to repair this and does the boat have to be pulled to do the repair?
I am assuming it does. I am guessing the seal between the wood and the hull has broken down over time.

I replaced all the backing plates on my 1983 CD30 last August. Some of them were starting to come apart due to small leaks over the years. I replaced them with marine plywood, soaked in 3 coats of West Epoxy. These were bedded in 3M101, not 5200, because I want to be able to take it apart again if I have to. Amazingly, all the thru hulls unscrewed from the seacocks relatively easily, after 17 years in salt water (we don't haul out in the winter here in Texas). I also installed new thru hulls because some had minor electrolysis, but the seacocks were fine. Electrolysis could be the cause of your problem. There is a tool that fits inside the thru hull and has a groove that catches the key inside the thru hull. With a pipe wrench and cheater, they all broke loose and then came out relatively easily. I had heard all kinds of horror stories about cutting them off, etc. but it was not necessary. The threads were coated with a rubbery compound of some kind and apparently that kept them from seizing. It made me feel good about the way Cape Dorys are built. I coated mine with the aforementioned 3M 101. I would rather go back with wood than fiberglass. Properly sealed, it should last a very long time. Since I did my own work, this job was very inexpensive. Materials only consisted of the plywood (not much), epoxy, thru hulls, and bedding compound. She did not leak a drop when splashed! Get to this job ASAP, as a thru-hull failure is fatal. Good luck.
Carl Jones
CD30 Spanish Eyes




GreatCells@aol.com