Seacock maintenance

[Maine_Buzzard]

An Apollo flanged valve will provide plenty of longevity...



http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?nam ... id=3359116

A 1/2" piece of G10 will serve as a backer, after sanding the hull and curving the G10 to match the inside. Glue with thickened epoxy and boat on.

Spartan valves are very pretty, but you need to decide if your sailing and wallet require old school valves.

Marelon is an option too, if you are very thoughtful about the location. No, I would not put one in a locker where an anchor can bash it. The price is not much less than bronze for the 1 1/2" ones.



Some think they are unwise, and I can see the argument. Lake boat, out of the water more than in? Plastic would be an option.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index. ... -failures/

Rod's primer on installation is awesome:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

A CD25 has a head, sink drain, and two cockpit drains? You may just want to plug the head drain.

Just looked at the Spartan price list. 1.5" seacock, $352. OUCH! Marelon is $114, Apollo is $154

Split the difference and put in Apollo flanged ones and you will be set.

Put any money saved towards Don Casey's book:

https://www.amazon.com/This-Old-Boat-Se ... casey+boat

[Sea Hunt Video]

"A 1/2" piece of G10 will serve as a backer, after sanding the hull and curving the G10 to match the inside."

Is G10 a material that a rookie/amateur with limited tools can work with (cut, sand, etc.) or does it require the skills and tools of a pro or a semi-pro

Thanks in advance for any and all replies, suggestions, etc.

[bottomscraper]

Is G10 a material that a rookie/amateur with limited tools can work with (cut, sand, etc.) or does it require the skills and tools of a pro or a semi-pro

It's just layers of fiberglass with epoxy binder. I can be cut, drilled and sanded with hand or power tools. Boring a big hole for a seacock would be easier with a drill press but a power drill with a hole saw would work.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Thanks Rich.

I am in need of only a small amount of G10; enough to make 4-5 backing plates for seacocks. Most of the websites I have looked at sell in large sheet sizes.

Anyone have a small amount of 1/2" thick G10 that they want to "donate" to a worthy cause or sell at a reasonable price

[Maine_Buzzard]

Another way to get a backer- One quart of resin, some hardener, and a sheet of fiberglass cloth will run you about $60 Tools and materials another $40. A good respirator is another $40.

Cut circles 5", 5.5" and 6". About four of each I think.

take a sheet of scrap aluminum sheet. Bend it to about the curve of the hull inside and clamp/screw, fix however possible to hold in place. Put down a coat of old school car wax. Mix the epoxy, 1/2 cup at a time (use slow hardener in summer weather) Place the 6" sheet on the aluminum, wet out with a squeege and repeat with the other three. Switch to 5.5" and continue. Get the air out and add cut corners to get the top surface flat. Finished surface should be 3/8 - 1/2"

Have a beer and let it cure overnight. Pop it off the sheet and wash w/ soap and water. Sand the top flat to match the seacock, fit the bottom to the hull. It will require very little sanding.

Pick up silica 405 for thickener, and mix a glue layer, then attach the backer to the hull. drill as needed and off you go! This is significantly easier than cutting and shaping G10.

[JD-MDR]

Roberto, Check Jamestown Distributors. I think they sell small pcs. for backing plates

[Sea Hunt Video]

Maine Buzzard:

Thanks for the information but I truly lack the skills to do that project and have it look even moderately neat. Yours look very nice.

JD:

I checked the Jamestown site. Thanks The small disks of G10 they have appear to be in 1/4" thickness. Is that sufficient thickness for use as a backing plate for seacocks

[bottomscraper]

Also check out McMaster Carr (link below) and Ebay (might be some bargains, watch for excessive shipping charges) for G10 sheet.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10-garolite/=17urvq6

[Sea Hunt Video]

Rich:

Thanks for the heads up on shipping charges. The 3"x6" G10 pieces look promising. They come in a six-pack from Jamestown Distributors. In reading about G10 material it appears there are a LOT of safety considerations involving particulate getting on the skin, inhaling, etc. If I go with G10 I am hopeful of limited drilling and cutting on the G10 material.

Honestly, I am still sort of partial to simple teak backing plates; but they are not durable.

[JD-MDR]

I'm wondering if It would be a good idea to just change the tapered cone and not the whole valve. That would be very easy and it looks like only the cone is deteriorated. Any comments?

[bottomscraper]

I'm wondering if It would be a good idea to just change the tapered cone and not the whole valve. That would be very easy and it looks like only the cone is deteriorated. Any comments?

You aren't going to find a place to buy just the cone. I believe the only seacock part that Spartan sells is a replacement handle.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks for the response. I realize I would have to buy the complete valve But I'm wondering If I can avoid the work to replace everything. I don't see anything wrong with the valve body etc.