Power Conditioner Thoughts

[Paul D.]

Anyone use one of these? If so how did you wire it and what are your thoughts on it?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=1475041

[hilbert]

What is the load that you want to protect?
If you can get by with 7 amps or less, then consider using an InterVOLT Heavy Duty 7Amp 12V DC-DC Isolated Voltage Stabilizer for $189.
It doesn't require a separate battery and will operate down to 10VDC.

• 7A continuous load rating. 93% efficiency. High visibility tri-color LED status indicator.
• Highly stable (< 20mV ripple) under a range of input conditions (10 - 16 VDC input).
• Switch selectable output voltage (12.5 or 13.6 VDC).
• Galvanic isolation between input and output. Wide operating temperature (-25 to +45C).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8OGBEC/re ... 1KXVJ1WW1C

[Joe CD MS 300]

Is there a particular problem you are having that make you think you need the protection? I was not aware that power spikes are an issue with a standard DC setup on a boat but there are a lot of items I'm not aware of.

[John Danicic]

Segregating your house bank from the starting bank and using only the starting bank to start your engine would eliminate the need for a power conditioner. Blue Sea Dual Battery Bank Management Panel would do it or you can create one yourself that would allow you to combine both banks in an emergency situation to start the engine from the house bank.



With all your power sensitive electronics and every thing else on the boat running directly off the house bank, you could directly charge the house bank from your charging sources and then using an "Echo Charger" to charge up the starting battery.
This method has worked well for Mariah now for some years. No brown downs or cut outs of the instruments or auto-helm when starting the engine. The house bank and engine bank switches remain, "on" while you are on the boat. And "Off" when you are away. Simple as it should be.

[Maine_Buzzard]

I have not used the Newmar conditioner, but a decent review of the owner's manual shows a simple low pass filter, a zener diode to catch spikes, and a 12V 4AH SLA battery to keep the voltage from sagging.

About as simple as you can get for a poor man's 12V UPS. Component cost for the filter and diodes would be about $30, and a 4AH battery is $16 on Amazon. I cannot see where there is $400 value in a steel box and a switch circuit. The diode that prevents backflow of electricity from the 4AH battery also ensures that you have 0.7V less than the voltage when charging and that the tiny battery is always kept slightly depleted when running on batteries.


House voltage is 12.8V, the diode eats 0.7V, the 4AH battery will be drained to 12.1V, and not at 100% if the house battery is shut off, you might have 3AH to suck out of the backup battery, and voltage will drop quickly to where electronics do not function. It would not power an autopilot for more than a minute or two.

A few cycles of the battery getting drained to 10% SOC or so will ensure that you have a dead battery inside the conditioner. You would need to add a power switch after the conditioner to shut off any devices that lack a mechanical power switch of their own. A device left in standby would flatten the backup battery in a day or two with the main breaker off.

This is pretty much a commercial product that provides the same function described earlier in the brownout thread.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34815

Ditto MS recommendations regarding battery wiring, particularly about where the instrument power is derived from the battery connections.

I like John's suggestion for a split battery switch far better. If an automatic combiner is used, you can charge without mental calculus regarding what each bank may need for a charge.

I'm wary of DC-DC converters or active power conditioners. Installing one may create electrical interference from a cheaply built unit.

[Paul D.]

Good thoughts all.

I am looking for a way to keep my new autopilot control head from temporarily turning off when I start the motor while it is on. So preventing brown outs essentially. My other electronics do not shut off.

Not really wanting to add another battery aboard. I had read the manual for the NewMar to and afterwards I was less eager to try it.

[Maine Sail]

Good thoughts all.

I am looking for a way to keep my new autopilot control head from temporarily turning off when I start the motor while it is on. So preventing brown outs essentially. My other electronics do not shut off.

Not really wanting to add another battery aboard. I had read the manual for the NewMar to and afterwards I was less eager to try it.

For more on voltage transients you may find this article of interest:

Voltage Transients in a Marine Electrical System
http://marinehowto.com/voltage-transien ... l-systems/

If it is just brown outs adding a simple ON/OFF to the 1/2/BOTH is easy and gives you a dedicated start bank.