I've decided that this year I will give up on my annual spring tradition of sanding, scapping, and painting my CD26 with a single season paint. I'm planning on moving to Micron CSC. Given that I have limited time this spring and I have some extra cash, I've decided to have my boatyard do the work. They have quoted about $2200 to strip all bottom paint, apply a 10 mil barrier coat, and 3 coats of CSC. The price quoted assumes that I am blister free. Incidentally, I am in northern fresh water. Does this seem like a reasonable price?
rpassmore42@hotmail.com
Bottom coating
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: Bottom coating
Rich:
It's a chunk of money but I've heard of much larger estimates just to do the barrier coat alone.
Figure that stripping the bottom will take two experienced workers the better part of a day. Then figure that the barrier coat will take two workers more than a whole day, depending on the temperature (lower temp, i.e. in the 50's means more waiting between coats, and with 7 or more coats is an entire day's work for two). The three coats of paint will take one worker about 4 hours. So figure about 36 hours of labor. Labor could actually be a bit more if they are to repaint the boot stripe which will inevitably suffer damage during the stripping process.
The barrier coat stuff will cost about $350 (I am guessing based on what I spent on West System epoxy, additives, applicators two years ago). The paint costs roughtly $100 a gallon (I've seen it range from $94.99 to $119. I used about 2.5 gallons for three coats on my 27, so figure three cans of paint (Keep the remainder for touch-ups next year). Add about another $250 for paint stripper, sandpaper, brushes, dropcloths, disposable body suits, respirators, etc.) and that puts the materials at about $900.
Subtract $900 from $2200 that leaves $1300 for labor divided by 36 hours gives you about $36 an hour for labor.
After having done all the described work myself (with a devoted assistant) two years ago, I must say it is not fun, it is extremely messy and there is an attraction to paying for the work. The price does not seem exorbitant; the yard guys have to eat, too.
Having said that, it is a personal choice. I chose to do my own grunt work on the hull and save those precious dollars for new sails that I don't have the skills to make for myself.
You will pat yourself on the back in years to come for doing this. Next year just touch up any bare spots and relaunch. Some say you have to hit the paint with a light powerwashing before launching to "activate" it, but I didn't do that last spring before launching and the hull was squeaky clean in the fall on haulout. This new high tech paint basically eliminates sanding, scraping, etc. in the future. One tip that is in the Interlux literature that you should follow: Have the first coat applied in a contrasting color from the final two coats. Then in those areas of high wear you will see the "marker" color show through, highlighting where you need to touch up before relaunching.
Another tip: after all the stripping is done, even if no blisters (knock on teak) you'll have the opportunity to fill dings, nicks and scratches that invariably develop below the water line on the hull, before barrier coating. Just fair them off with a little thickened epoxy mixture before barrier coating. Obviously, the procedure is more complicated for larger defects, gouges or blisters.
All the best, and hope for an early Spring.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance
New York
goldy@bestweb.net
It's a chunk of money but I've heard of much larger estimates just to do the barrier coat alone.
Figure that stripping the bottom will take two experienced workers the better part of a day. Then figure that the barrier coat will take two workers more than a whole day, depending on the temperature (lower temp, i.e. in the 50's means more waiting between coats, and with 7 or more coats is an entire day's work for two). The three coats of paint will take one worker about 4 hours. So figure about 36 hours of labor. Labor could actually be a bit more if they are to repaint the boot stripe which will inevitably suffer damage during the stripping process.
The barrier coat stuff will cost about $350 (I am guessing based on what I spent on West System epoxy, additives, applicators two years ago). The paint costs roughtly $100 a gallon (I've seen it range from $94.99 to $119. I used about 2.5 gallons for three coats on my 27, so figure three cans of paint (Keep the remainder for touch-ups next year). Add about another $250 for paint stripper, sandpaper, brushes, dropcloths, disposable body suits, respirators, etc.) and that puts the materials at about $900.
Subtract $900 from $2200 that leaves $1300 for labor divided by 36 hours gives you about $36 an hour for labor.
After having done all the described work myself (with a devoted assistant) two years ago, I must say it is not fun, it is extremely messy and there is an attraction to paying for the work. The price does not seem exorbitant; the yard guys have to eat, too.
Having said that, it is a personal choice. I chose to do my own grunt work on the hull and save those precious dollars for new sails that I don't have the skills to make for myself.
You will pat yourself on the back in years to come for doing this. Next year just touch up any bare spots and relaunch. Some say you have to hit the paint with a light powerwashing before launching to "activate" it, but I didn't do that last spring before launching and the hull was squeaky clean in the fall on haulout. This new high tech paint basically eliminates sanding, scraping, etc. in the future. One tip that is in the Interlux literature that you should follow: Have the first coat applied in a contrasting color from the final two coats. Then in those areas of high wear you will see the "marker" color show through, highlighting where you need to touch up before relaunching.
Another tip: after all the stripping is done, even if no blisters (knock on teak) you'll have the opportunity to fill dings, nicks and scratches that invariably develop below the water line on the hull, before barrier coating. Just fair them off with a little thickened epoxy mixture before barrier coating. Obviously, the procedure is more complicated for larger defects, gouges or blisters.
All the best, and hope for an early Spring.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #173
Second Chance
New York
Rich Passmore wrote: I've decided that this year I will give up on my annual spring tradition of sanding, scapping, and painting my CD26 with a single season paint. I'm planning on moving to Micron CSC. Given that I have limited time this spring and I have some extra cash, I've decided to have my boatyard do the work. They have quoted about $2200 to strip all bottom paint, apply a 10 mil barrier coat, and 3 coats of CSC. The price quoted assumes that I am blister free. Incidentally, I am in northern fresh water. Does this seem like a reasonable price?
goldy@bestweb.net
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len
Re: Bottom coating
rich
i had this done a few years ago and my boat's bottom has been smooth and free of flaking paint since then - i think the price is fair - i think you will be very happy with the results
len
md.frel@nwh.org
i had this done a few years ago and my boat's bottom has been smooth and free of flaking paint since then - i think the price is fair - i think you will be very happy with the results
len
md.frel@nwh.org
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Olli Wendelin
Re: Bottom coating
Rich,
This seems like a lot of money for bottom paint.
This spring I will paint the bottom of my CD30. I will careen her on a local sandbar. I then clean the bottom on the falling tide and paint with one coat of Trinidad, the heaviest, nastiest antifouling paint I have found. The next day I do the other side. I could do both sides on one tide if I used a cradel to hold her up, but then I couldn't do the bottom of the keel. Its easiest to just lay her over.
This paint lasts two seasons easy, in salt water. Cost for two gallons of paint, disposable brushes and rollers may run $220. Labor is about 6 hours each side, and the rest of the day waiting for the tide to rise. Your budget would pay my bottom paint bill for 20 years, probably less due to inflation.
Yard labor costs are just too high, unless your take home hourly rate is more than the yards hourly rate.
I understand that this method is not for everyone. Especially if the tides in your area are small.
In northern climates boats are out of the water more than in. With the bottom visible so much of the year, I think the tendancy is to worry about them too much.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
This seems like a lot of money for bottom paint.
This spring I will paint the bottom of my CD30. I will careen her on a local sandbar. I then clean the bottom on the falling tide and paint with one coat of Trinidad, the heaviest, nastiest antifouling paint I have found. The next day I do the other side. I could do both sides on one tide if I used a cradel to hold her up, but then I couldn't do the bottom of the keel. Its easiest to just lay her over.
This paint lasts two seasons easy, in salt water. Cost for two gallons of paint, disposable brushes and rollers may run $220. Labor is about 6 hours each side, and the rest of the day waiting for the tide to rise. Your budget would pay my bottom paint bill for 20 years, probably less due to inflation.
Yard labor costs are just too high, unless your take home hourly rate is more than the yards hourly rate.
I understand that this method is not for everyone. Especially if the tides in your area are small.
In northern climates boats are out of the water more than in. With the bottom visible so much of the year, I think the tendancy is to worry about them too much.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
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Rich Passmore
Re: Bottom coating
Interesting...Olli Wendelin wrote: Rich,
This seems like a lot of money for bottom paint.
This spring I will paint the bottom of my CD30. I will careen her on a local sandbar. I then clean the bottom on the falling tide and paint with one coat of Trinidad, the heaviest, nastiest antifouling paint I have found. The next day I do the other side. I could do both sides on one tide if I used a cradel to hold her up, but then I couldn't do the bottom of the keel. Its easiest to just lay her over.
This paint lasts two seasons easy, in salt water. Cost for two gallons of paint, disposable brushes and rollers may run $220. Labor is about 6 hours each side, and the rest of the day waiting for the tide to rise. Your budget would pay my bottom paint bill for 20 years, probably less due to inflation.
Yard labor costs are just too high, unless your take home hourly rate is more than the yards hourly rate.
I understand that this method is not for everyone. Especially if the tides in your area are small.
In northern climates boats are out of the water more than in. With the bottom visible so much of the year, I think the tendancy is to worry about them too much.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
I have an unusual situation, I sail on a river so there is no option for what you described. I also am really curious about what lies beneath all that paint. The boat will be 16 years old this year and I would like to know for sure the the gelcoat and underlying glass is sound. I don't really relish spending that kind of money but then again I don't really have any other serious drains on income such as golf, skiing, etc. And these are very special boats, why not give them a treat like this every 16 years or so...
rpassmore42@hotmail.com
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Don Sargeant
Re: Bottom coating
I'm having Coquina stripped, barrier coated and bottom coated for about $775 plus materials. And that's a Greenwich (gold coast) price!
BTW use the CSC with algeacide. It's terrific.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Waiting anxiously to have her bottom rubbed in Greenwich Cove
don@cliggott.com
BTW use the CSC with algeacide. It's terrific.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Waiting anxiously to have her bottom rubbed in Greenwich Cove
Rich Passmore wrote: I've decided that this year I will give up on my annual spring tradition of sanding, scapping, and painting my CD26 with a single season paint. I'm planning on moving to Micron CSC. Given that I have limited time this spring and I have some extra cash, I've decided to have my boatyard do the work. They have quoted about $2200 to strip all bottom paint, apply a 10 mil barrier coat, and 3 coats of CSC. The price quoted assumes that I am blister free. Incidentally, I am in northern fresh water. Does this seem like a reasonable price?
don@cliggott.com