Engine winterizing question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Engine winterizing question
I would be interested in hearing thoughts or suggestions from the people on this board about whether or not I should start up my diesel engine that I winterized last year and never got a chance to run because I never put my boat in this season.
The only reason why I would consider starting and running the engine is to make sure it starts and to circulate the oil to coat the inside of the engine for another winter's nap. Any thoughts?
The only reason why I would consider starting and running the engine is to make sure it starts and to circulate the oil to coat the inside of the engine for another winter's nap. Any thoughts?
Re: Engine winterizing question
Maybe you should move south and sail year round?
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
Re: Engine winterizing question
And give up ice fishing??
- tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: Engine winterizing question
I would not start it unless you are going to let it warm up completely. If you have a hand crank, as we do, I would turn it over a revolution two just to move things around.
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Re: Engine winterizing question
Fishing for ice??? We just get it out the ice maker...GeorgeH wrote:And give up ice fishing??
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
- David van den Burgh
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 18:54
- Location: Ariel CD36, 1979 - Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Re: Engine winterizing question
I, too, am of the opinion that you should only start it if you're prepared to bring it up to temperature, run it for a bit, and then winterize it again. If you're not interested in doing that, I'd be inclined to rotate it slowly by hand - if possible - or leave it alone till next season.
-
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Engine winterizing question
I like to drain the muffler and the exhaust hose when laying up, as it eliminates a pocket of damp air that can reach back to the exhaust valves and cylinder walls if a valve happens to be open.
Multi year storage? Remove the glow plugs and spray fogging oil in the intake while cranking. (Rag over the top of the head.) A squirt down the glow plug holes and replace them loosely. Overfill the oil and transmission oil, and hand crank slowly every three months to re-coat the internals.
Desiccant inside and plastic sealing of the intake and exhaust.
Fresh antifreeze and a drained raw water system, impeller pulled.
Keep it dry and an engine is good for five years.
Fogging oil in a warm engine cranking over makes for an exciting runaway for a few seconds!
Multi year storage? Remove the glow plugs and spray fogging oil in the intake while cranking. (Rag over the top of the head.) A squirt down the glow plug holes and replace them loosely. Overfill the oil and transmission oil, and hand crank slowly every three months to re-coat the internals.
Desiccant inside and plastic sealing of the intake and exhaust.
Fresh antifreeze and a drained raw water system, impeller pulled.
Keep it dry and an engine is good for five years.
Fogging oil in a warm engine cranking over makes for an exciting runaway for a few seconds!
Re: Engine winterizing question
Just pull out the "kill switch" and turn the engine over for a few seconds. This circulates oil to the cylinder walls and other places and should achieve what you want to do. I once had my CD28 sit for several seasons and observed no ill result.GeorgeH wrote: ... The only reason why I would consider starting and running the engine is to make sure it starts and to circulate the oil to coat the inside of the engine for another winter's nap ...
Of course the eventual result depends on the quality and extent of the initial winterization process.
- tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: Engine winterizing question
I have often thought of doing that, but wouldn't that squirt raw diesel into the cylinders? I think you would have to hold the decompression lever at the same time, I don't have enough arms to do that.
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
-
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Engine winterizing question
The engine kill cuts fuel delivery to the injectors, and turning the engine over with it active will splash a bit of oil on the cylinder walls, but the top end stays dry.
Re: Engine winterizing question
Note also that many of the older owner manuals for small diesels suggest using the "kill switch" technique to pre-start a cold engine in cooler weather if there is no other method or facility to warm the injectors. Not sure I have all the preferred jargon here, but the technique should be obvious.Maine_Buzzard wrote:The engine kill cuts fuel delivery to the injectors, and turning the engine over with it active will splash a bit of oil on the cylinder walls, but the top end stays dry.