Above the Salish Sea II 2016

[David Patterson]

At Percy Anchorage of Gabriola Island, south of Nanaimo, a cruiser can wait for the right timing to transit one of the Narrows (Dodd or False). The anchorage marks, for me, my re-entry into the southern Gulf Islands, cooler waters, and increasingly familiar cruising grounds. More light airs sailing is required in them, and currents vary significantly though the tidal range is less. Crossing the remainder of the Gulf of Georgia (now known as the Strait of) I was able to sail the first third, to level with the Ballenas Islands, the torpedo range inactive that day. My track is shown below, and a photo of two sailing craft (larger than my little pocket cruiser) that companioned me for a time before we all went to motoring. I believe my least favorite sailing, or motoring for that matter, is downwind with following confused seas, especially if exacerbated by ship wakes. I'm unable to stop the tiring rolling without sacrificing course made good. Heaving-to changes the motion, naturally, but yields no progress. The photo of the boats under sail doesn't really capture the sea state, which worsened the closer I got to Nanaimo, as though the waters were piling up there after days of northwesterlies. Force 4 winds fell to Force 1, with a 180* shift in the offing. I motored, making my anchorage in time, just, after 9 hours and 28 miles. The last photo is of the Gulf from Fairway Channel, near Nanaimo. Snake Island looks like one from certain angles. That tow beyond it is common: a huge barge with cranes on pedestals, which load the barges to the base of the cranes with large high-quality logs, then are towed for off-loading and transshipment, perhaps even overseas. Vancouver City is an active international port, especially to the Orient. I'll post a few other random photos later, if I can.

[David Patterson]

One of the pleasures of cruising in this area, for me, is the chance to see the land from a different perspective. While not as dramatic a view as, say, from a jet at 7 miles altitude, the chance to study and compare lasts longer. Two tectonic plates meet under these coastal Pacific waters, creating varied geology. The huge glaciers that only melted away 10 or 12 thousand years ago marked the area deeply, leaving behind whole islands (Savary and Harwood are examples) that are glacial moraines. Never mind the fjords. After 67 days of being out on this cruise, much has captured my attention. Three photos: the first is of granite cliffs on Lasqueti Island. That big ketch, by the way, was so stern-loaded that 4-6 inch wind waves had her pitching rhythmically. It took me awhile to decide her trim alone could make her so active. In the same anchorage, and weighing a fraction of her tons, my 25D was not pitching at all. The second photo is of the cliffs of Gabriola Island, farther south in a different archipelago. Earthquake-shattered, I presume, huge slabs and chunks have tumbled to the base. And the waters are 120' deep there. I believe they are of very different composition. Would you want s house up there? Fantastic setting. Maybe this winter I'll look into some local geology texts. The third photo appears to be sandstone, also on Gabriola. Look, under that overhang, at those fantastic sea carvings.

[David Patterson]

Out of the Gulf of Georgia (now formally the Strait of Georgia) I'm satisfied to be back in protected waters, though light airs sailing can be challenging, too. Especially given the stronger and more complex currents among the Salish Sea islands. (The compass rose is in the Gulf in the photo, out where winds are at least a Force or two higher, the sea states to match.) Not that it matters too much, for I'm proceeding in the conventional vacation cruising mode, sailing when convenient, mostly, 68 days into this cruise. Except...I encountered a starting problem in Percy Anchorage, up between Gabriola and unbeautifully-named Mudge. Patient work on connections found a problem at the connection of the instrument panel's wiring harness and the bundle that leads forward to the engine's wiring harness. All of it should be replaced. Anyway, once re-connected, I motored through very busy Dodd Narrows at the slack before the flood, opposite to my preferred timing. Noon on a high tourist season day, over three dozen boats, from mega-yachts to small sport fishing boat, made the transit in a half hour period. Two-way traffic in a busy bottle-neck, some inevitable anxious cruisers barreling through at unnecessary speeds, wakes be damned. A fine Force 2 sail followed, but I was on the wrong tide. In the interest of a protected anchorage for some rest days, I motored on when the wind dropped, against the flood currents, working out a reasonable currents plan to get to Wallace Island Marine Park, though at places losing up to 2 kts SOG to current. Crowding is inevitable in these waters this time of year, though rarely extreme. Still, stern-tying in a small well-occupied anchorage as a single-hander requires forethought and preparation. Experience helps. Ahead will be Ganges Harbour, however I get there. A sight I look forward to is the boat pictured. I never tire of studying her. Probably engineless, as that long sweep suggests, the small fore triangle, large main area, wonderful sheer, low freeboard, and the overhangs, among other features, evoke a bygone era. Yet, some features show up in Alberg's designs that most of us sail today. (His original sail plan for the Alberg 30 had a small jib, in fact was a fractional rig, altered by the builder along with shifting the mast, to Alberg's reactions. He later pointed out that it worked out rather well on that design.) The features are ones that remain beautifully pleasing to my eye.

[David Patterson]

To me, Wallace Island is the preferable anchorage in Trincomali Channel of the Gulf Islands. More protection than in Montague, which many prefer. Small scenes are attractive here, like the rusted out hulk of a ship's lifeboat. #1378. Only 26 passenger rated. Probably it was sold on from the ship, its useful life ending right there. War surplus? Wherever people go they wish to leave a sign, since hand prints on cave walls. On Wallace that is customary. This old 20'x40' resort-store building is literally covered with plaques and other markers left over the years, many carefully crafted at home, some very ad hoc. Good place to see if your prospective boat name has already been used. Or to get new ideas for one. When the rapidly shallowing cove was more full, a moderately sized (for these waters) motor yacht stern-tied at the end of the row. Last spot left at the time, in waters only 5' deep at low tide. A fun comparison with little CLOUD GIRL. But, it's not how big your boat....

[David Patterson]

On my return south from the Discovery Islands and Desolation Sound, I've been trying (with mixed results!) to slip between SE systems. On this sail-only passage I was able to get most of a south-running tide's worth of light airs that were northerly. You can spot in my track where the wind shifted 180 degrees, gusting Force 3. With that and about 1.5 knots of current I was at nominal hull speed. I swept into Captain Passage. I felt fortunate not to have to beat SE in Trincomali Channel in Force 4 winds and the resulting sea states, as I've done a few times before. By the time I entered the long harbor I was running directly before a Force 2 and 3 wind under main alone, at about 3 knots. Fine by me. I furled the jib rather than run wing 'n' wing. No need to, especially heading into a crowded anchorage. There is always enough room, though, in this long harbor. SE exposure however. The last photo is of big Trincomali Channel's SE terminus. Active Pass, a major large craft thoroughfare, is to the left behind that headland. Straight ahead is beautiful Navy Channel, which I've passed down once, in June of 2015, early one morning. The images are still with me. At least I found Navy beautiful, that particular morning. Many of the local place names are the result of mid-19th century British navy use. Trincomali, Ganges, etc. Active Pass is very active, but it was named after the warship ACTIVE (I believe). Place names are an interesting study in the Salish Sea, and above. This was the 39th passage of my now 71 day cruise. I'll have to get more efficient to make the Broughtons next year, as I intended to this year. And get back.

[David Patterson]

On passage. A dawn start to a longish passage day, taking advantage (hopefully) of a rare window between southerlies. I don't mind an upwind passage, but one of 28 miles with a border crossing would be a bit much. No other boats in sight, which has been fairly frequent on this now 73 day cruise. Passage #40 of ones ranging from 1 to 40 miles. I'm headed for the Friday Harbor region, at the SE corner of the chart shot. The little sailboat is SEA SPOON II, 22' Seas Sprite, I think. Easy to spot as an Alberg design.

[David Patterson]

A successful 28 mile passage, mostly motored, completed my 73 day/40 passage cruise to above the Salish Sea. While I didn't attain the Broughton archipelago, my original goal, I learned a great deal that will help get me there, eventually, and enjoyed some very satisfying cruising, as described in multiple postings. The challenge of this 40th passage, which I've done a handful of times but have not always been as successful with, was to work the tides. I left Ganges toward the end of an ebb, which helped me leave the long harbor. During the flood, hard-won "local knowledge" helped me find useful countercurrents, boosting my SOG rather than decreasing it, except at Mouat Point of N Pender Island. There I lost nearly 2 knots to the current. The flood's currents helpfully (going SE) run clockwise around Stuart Island of the San Juans. In San Juan Channel the ebb then gives a boost to a cruiser going S. Anyway, a passage of all or part of three tides. Along N Pender Island large vacation homes perch on the cliffs. The houses look to me as though they might wish to be diving into Swanson Channel below, but that is mere surrealistical fantasy. The last photo is of the international border, looking NE up Boundary Pass on an exceptionally calm day. Such scenes have started to seem ordinary to me, until I look back on them through photos. Wind and tide wreak havoc here at times. Even moderate conditions can get pretty lively, I can attest. I'll post some of the "results" of my extended cruise in a week or two, in the form of some numbers and names.

[David Patterson]

Post-cruise ennui. Without the prospect of an interesting and challenging passage every day or two, as I enjoyed for 10.5 weeks, life seems a little...pale. Left to me for sailing, at the moment, is my customary "training passage" back and forth between Friday Harbor and (usually) placid Parks Bay. The chart shows a channel crossing under sail, mid-flood in mostly Force 2 southerly winds. I managed to eke out an hour forty and three whole miles of sailing, anchor to anchor. The most entertaining aspect was being buzzed by a boatpix.com helicopter. They'll find me online and offer photos. Perhaps even good ones. I'm clearly back in the urbanized part of the San Juans! Here it is harvest time, as tourist dollars are reaped, stacked, and stored for the coming lean months. As the second photo shows, one of the fortunate results of the harvest is the continued life of some old restored schooners, supporting themselves by providing day sail experiences, long to be recalled by the visitors who enjoy them. In the background are the pilings of the ferry dock. (Looks like the caulking on SPIKE AFRICA might be problematic. I like the way her "new-fangled" plow anchor is catted to a whisker stay.) At the port docks recently I stopped by PHEROUSA, advertised for sale in Good Old Boat. She is out of my budgetary reach, though. A superb Alberg 35, she is also too large for the tight-quarters sailing I like to try. Still, one of my cruising friends commented, "You want better upwind performance? Those extra feet of length will give it to you." She is docked beside what in these waters is a modest motor yacht. [As a side note, if you are in the NW for the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, I'll co-present this year with two young friends who also prefer to cruise under sail. They both designed and built their 30' wood cutter. Our topics are: making Princess Louisa's Chatterbox Falls using sail alone, and collecting personal sailing-challenges-met, which we playfully call "notches in the tiller." Not actual notches, of course, though tillers could get a little beat up in some of the attempts. Please come by if you are interested in the topics. Sept 9-11.]

[David Patterson]

An extended cruise requires a re-entry process afterwards, I'm finding. After my longest cruise to date (2.5 months) I provisioned, after turning in to customs my prohibited item...one tangerine, and fled to a quieter less-frequented anchorage for a few days. Now I've returned to port, but am only slowly adjusting to the bustle, though still out at anchor. I've not yet collected stats on my cruise. I have looked at some photos Karen on MINTAKA took when she, John, and I were sharing anchorages. The one below shows diminutive CLOUD GIRL in Ballet Bay, Nelson Island, near the mouth of Jervis Inlet. I'm about to open the anchor locker to let go the already prepped anchor, after sailing in through a narrow entrance, made narrower by low tide. Rain is beginning. To set the hook, I recall that I back winded the main, that time, rather than sailing it in. Force 4 outside the bay, low Force 1 as I anchored. (Thanks, Karen.) This was only a couple weeks into the cruise. CLOUDIE is far down on her lines, for I was mostly provisioned for up to 90 days, with only a few stops for additional supplies ahead. It doesn't take a very large cruiser to carry one sailor for quite awhile. In the second photo you can spot the big sleek topsail schooner ADVENTURESS, among other sailing vessels, in my "re-entry" anchorage. Last is a gaff rigged cruiser that sailed into Friday Harbor earlier today, only one "old gaffer" in evidence as a crew. Far more modern craft are nearby. I'm still debating with myself as to whether to call that handsome old wood boat a schooner or a ketch. Opinions? I enjoy the color of her sails.

[David Patterson]

High tourist season in the San Juans of the Salish Sea, as I continue my post-cruise adjustment. To do anything intently for 2 1/2 months alters a person to fit the activity, mentally and physically. I suppose even attitudinally. "Cruisers' mind," perhaps. Life at a desk certainly does, right? I'm no longer suspended, between a focus on the next passage and more local concerns. Not quite fully back though. Used to mostly unshared anchorages, I watch some boaters with amazement. For example, in the first photo below, a maybe 50 foot motor yacht (I'm no judge of length) came to anchor needlessly right next to a 20' sloop. Perhaps the operators were perceptually calibrated to marina distances between boats. In any case, the expectable resulted, in the second photo. After 18 hours, the power boat moved away a hundred feet or so. In a better anchorage, in the third photo, the young designer/builder couple on RABANNAH sailed in, in part to plan our two co-presentation talks at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival. They had just had a fast crossing of Juan de Fuca Strait, making their tidal timing for Cattle Pass/Middle Passage accurately. In the photo (poor detail, sorry) one is back-winding the main to stretch out the chain and set the anchor. They never anchor at less than 5:1, they tell me. "Why would we?" Crowding comes to mind, but the principle can't be argued with, given some of the weather surprises here near the Pacific. Those have been demonstrated lately as fast-moving depressions come ashore through Juan de Fuca and Queen Charlotte Straits, contrary to the forecasts at times.

[David Patterson]

Just for pretty. Water, land, sky, on a mid-summer morning in Washington's San Juan Islands. Sailable light airs, just prior to a slack-before-the-ebb, with Force 2 wind signs on the channel's open waters ahead. The Olympic Mountains define the southern horizon, while San Juan Island acts as a bulwark (sometimes!) against the regular gales in Juan de Fuca Strait. Friday Harbor nestles two miles off in its fine bay, to the right, it's one exposure easterly. A scene so delicious, overall, that it makes the flavors of an excellent breakfast soon forgotten. Second is a standard shot: an anchorage in morning light, the next day.

[tjr818]

With a description such as that, who needs pictures? Have a nice day in such a wonderful place David.

[David Patterson]

Thanks, Tim. (Oops, didn't level the second photo. Oh well.)

[David Patterson]

In port for a more extended visit, anchored fore and aft in readiness to leave the boat for 4 days, I'm at times a bit overwhelmed by the sights, sounds, and exhaust smells of the port. Some sights do compensate. 63' EL DANATO of Campbell River, Canada, was tied up at the courtesy dock. Launched in 1960, she looks to be all wood, but could a wood hull be faired that beautifully? If fiberglass, that hull would have to be an early one. There was no one to ask. Near the ferry terminal, where two schooners in the tourist trade berth, I spotted a crew member working up SPIKE AFRICA's nicely raked mainmast. She seemed very much at ease as she moved about up there. Not everyone could do that job. I have my little CLOUD GIRL at the back of the field, with a float on each anchor, in hopes that no neophytes will snag my rodes. I'll have just enough depth to manage a few minus tides while I'm away...I hope. It's a good mud bottom and she has a truly burly keel if she does happen to touch. Better than being swung into. With four tides a day, lower low water is brief here. I won't worry. Much.

[David Patterson]

Leaving the San Juans via Thatcher Pass for a weekend in a city, on the first morning ferry, I caught the sun rising behind an island. At nearly 20 knots, the speed of the ferry is remarkable when compared to the cruising speeds of a small s/v. The coming speeds of inter-urban highways are of yet a different magnitude entirely. One gets calibrated to a walking pace on an extended cruise. Wind sign on the water looks to be from a very sailable Force 2 wind.