Tiller pilot install

[adamganz]

Just picked up a simrad tp32. I'm looking for easy "analog" installation. Do not have gps; all course settings will be relative to wind etc.

Anybody install directly to battery? I'm thinking I could use an in-line fuse and switch.

Adam

[Maine_Buzzard]

Nice addition to your boat!

I have to believe that you have an electrical panel, or at least fuses for the nave lights and VHF if you are adding an autopilot... What model boat do you have, and is there a circuit breaker panel already?

As a bare minimum, you could use a cigarette lighter plug and a longish run of cable if you have only one or two electrical items, and already have a plug somewhere. Put a 2A fuse in the lighter plug for this autopilot.

Having a weatherproof socket and connector on the autopilot will make life considerably easier than hardwiring to a switch.

If you have a circuit panel with an open spot, add a 5A breaker (about the smallest you can find) and run the red positive supply and black negative to the waterproof socket.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=2436642

Here's a $20 plug and socket that would work well.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=846701

[Dick Kobayashi]

Most tp users I know, just set the TP for the next waypoint (not necessarily a GPS way point) and trim sails so the tp is not over whelmed. What is the value of a tp - not being a tiller slave. There are lots of pieces that allow various mounting arrangements. Others can describe electrical arrangements. Would be helpful if you specified you boat model.

[adamganz]

Thanks. The boat is an '83 cd28. It has the original elec panel but there's no room for additional wiring/circuits fuses. I've got a couple of other components wired directly to battery, including the bilge pump and a cigarette lighter.

My thought is to do the same with the tiller pilot. I'd install a waterproof receptacle in cockpit, and run the wiring to battery in the lazarette. But want to be able to switch off power.

[Dick Kobayashi]

It was a while ago, but I believe I spliced the tp power supply into a line serving something else, maybe the depth sounder which is always on, this way I got adequate power but got it through the fused electrical panel. I don't see a problem with a battery take off if fused and switched properly. Good luck on this. You'll like it.

[tjr818]

Thanks. The boat is an '83 cd28. It has the original elec panel but there's no room for additional wiring/circuits fuses. I've got a couple of other components wired directly to battery, including the bilge pump and a cigarette lighter.My thought is to do the same with the tiller pilot. I'd install a waterproof receptacle in cockpit, and run the wiring to battery in the lazarette. But want to be able to switch off power.

It is very easy to install a Blue Seas six circuit fuse panel in the battery compartment. Wire it directly to the house battery and take the individual circuits off of that fuse panel. It is safer and you will then have the proper amperage fuse for each circuit. Defender has them for $35, add another few $$ for fuses and wiring and you have it all for less than $75.
Here is the Defender link: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=336189

[Warren Kaplan]

I wired my Tiller pilot 2000 directly to the battery. I put an inline fuse into the positive lead from the battery to the receptacle. The pilot itself was plugged into the receptacle. When I wanted to turn the pilot off, (other than leave it on standby) all I had to do was pull the plug from the unit out of the receptacle...like pulling a plug out of a wall socket in your house. If I wanted to use it again, I just plugged it back in. Very very simple...quick and easy. Worked quite well.

[adamganz]

Warren, that's exactly what I'd like to do. Sounds pretty straight forward - thanks! Adam

[Warren Kaplan]

Warren, that's exactly what I'd like to do. Sounds pretty straight forward - thanks! Adam

I've forgotten what size fuse I used. Pretty small though. I'm sure you can find out what size from your owner's manual, or email the company...and of course, online for anything and everything.

[Neil Gordon]

Just a note about integrating auto-pilot to GPS. Remember that if you have a route set, on reaching a way point, your auto-pilot will steer to the next way point, etc., etc. What the auto-pilot won't do is check to see if the turn to the new way point complies with the Regulations for Avoiding Collisions at Sea, aka rules of the road.

[Steve Bryant]

Hi adamganz,

Having had to correct a lot of electrical issues on my boat, my only advice is that you really need to look at your owner's manual for the proper installation. No problem connecting to the battery, but you will be maxed out by ABYC standards with the four connections directly tied to your battery post. tjr818's advice to add a fuse block is a good one.

The TP32 should have come with a receptacle that is wired directly to the power source that the unit plugs into, so you don't need a switch. You mentioned installing a 2 amp fuse. Your owner's manual states a 10 amp fuse is required. Autopilots can require a lot of current when they are under a heavy load. It also states to use 14 awg wire if the length of the run is over 13 ft, 16 awg if less than 13ft. I would opt for 14 awg regardless.

Just want you to be safe,

Good Luck,

[adamganz]

Thanks Steve. Not sure who mentioned a 2amp fuse but it wasn't me - I'll use whatever is specified. To be honest I'm not entirely sure what is connected to the battery other than the bilge pump and the radio, which I'm removing. If it looks like I need additional connections I'll consider an additional fuse block.

[Steve Bryant]

You're correct, it wasn't you.

Sorry,