I think I've found the perfect tool...

[Joe Myerson]

... For removing old port light gaskets, that is.

I started removing the original, dried-out gaskets from my port lights today. The first one was a struggle: I started with a 1/4-inch wood chisel, which was too sharp and scratched the bronze. Then I tried using a piece of dowel whittled into an appropriate shape. Neither really worked well. I got the gasket out, in pieces, but lots of materiel remained in the groove.

My thoughts turned to plastic putty knives, and I thought I had one in the basement workshop. I couldn't find the putty knife, but my eyes fell on something even better, A West System #804 reusable stirring stick. The square end is sharp enough to fit between the gasketing and the bronze frame, and the tool is flexible. It also will not scratch bronze.

The result: I removed the second gasket in one piece, with almost no residue left in the groove. I only had one stick left (they come in packages of 8), and it was pretty blunt after 1 1/2 portholes. I plan to finish this job next week, get the new gaskets installed--and return the jig I borrowed to do the job.

--Joe

[Capt Hook]

Are you talking about the opening ports?

If so could you provide more details about your project, in particular a description of and use of the jig you mentioned.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Captain Hook:

I think this website may give you the information about the "jig" that Joe referenced in his post.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=33316

I am getting ready to think about the possibility of doing the same (or similar) on my ports. However, from what I can tell, they do not leak at all at this time so the phrase "if it ain't broke don't fix it" comes to mind.

If the above site reference is incorrect I apologize to Captain Hook and my friend Joe.

[jbenagh]

Thanks! At $3 at Defender (for 8) I just added them to the order for the last (hopefully) set of stuff for commissioning this year.

[Capt Hook]

Where do you get the gaskets?

[Joe Myerson]

Thanks for answering Hook's question, Roberto.

Capt. H: I ordered a 100-ft. Roll of gasketing material from McMasterCarr. Check my earlier thread for more information: I'm answering from iPhone and don't have other information handy right now.

[Joe Myerson]

Capt. Hook,
Here's a link to the product page at McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8605k44/=121kevp

It comes in 100-foot rolls. I've already had quite a few requests for my leftovers, but I haven't figured out what that works out to, so I might be able to add you to the list.

--Joe

[Capt Hook]

Capt. Hook,
Here's a link to the product page at McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8605k44/=121kevp

It comes in 100-foot rolls. I've already had quite a few requests for my leftovers, but I haven't figured out what that works out to, so I might be able to add you to the list.

--Joe

Thanks. From the pic I thought they came as a big odd shaped O ring the size and shape of the port.

[Frenchy]

Hi Capt. - The gaskets are available from Spartan Marine, already finished and custom made for your portlights.
They're not cheap, though. For my CD 33, the part # is P560-7 and the price is $17 each (ouch). I didn't know
you could make your own. The gaskets are also a tiny bit short, meaning you have to stretch them in place. That's
why I made a plywood form - to stretch them.
If you make your own, you'll have to make some kind of form or jig to simulate the inside perimeter of the
gasket groove in the port, cut the rubber at an angle and glue the ends. In that case, the length will be correct
and you won't have to stretch them in place. Also, you'll save a ton of money. Good luck-

[Capt Hook]

Hi Capt. - The gaskets are available from Spartan Marine, already finished and custom made for your portlights.
They're not cheap, though. For my CD 33, the part # is P560-7 and the price is $17 each (ouch). I didn't know
you could make your own. The gaskets are also a tiny bit short, meaning you have to stretch them in place. That's
why I made a plywood form - to stretch them.
If you make your own, you'll have to make some kind of form or jig to simulate the inside perimeter of the
gasket groove in the port, cut the rubber at an angle and glue the ends. In that case, the length will be correct
and you won't have to stretch them in place. Also, you'll save a ton of money. Good luck-

Thanks.

[Joe Myerson]

If you make your own, you'll have to make some kind of form or jig to simulate the inside perimeter of the
gasket groove in the port, cut the rubber at an angle and glue the ends. In that case, the length will be correct
and you won't have to stretch them in place. Also, you'll save a ton of money. Good luck-

That's why I bought the roll: 100 feet of neoprene tubing for half the price of the six gaskets I would need for my 25D.
Unfortunately, even though the weather is perfect, I'm stuck indoors with flu'-like symptoms. Hope to get the job done in a few days.

--Joe

[trapper]

Hi Joe,

Port gaskets were one of the first repairs I did on Saga. I had done them on my CD22 before her. I cant remember how I got the old stuff out but I purchased the Spartan gaskets for all. I think you would have to be very coordinated to get straight gasket material as well fitted as the Spartans. I did use the straight gasket material like you ordered for my forward hatch but that is different and it worked very well. Good luck with it!

[Joe Myerson]

Ugh!
Using my West System stirring stick, I was able to remove all six gaskets, five of them in one piece. That's the good news. (Average time per opening port: 1/2 hour)

Here's the bad news: I'm having one hell of a time getting the remainder of the glued neoprene out of the groove. Don Casey recommends using a soft wire wheel (brass, I presume) on an electric drill, but it's really tough to get a drill into the top section of the bronze frame.

Fellow CDer Pete Senopoulos suggested using a Dremel-type tool. My Dremel has two small wire wheels, both with steel bristles. Dremel recommends using the brushes as a slow (5,000 to 8,000) rpm. I've been doing this, but it is a very slow process.

Any suggestions from those who have done this?

I fear this project will take much more time than I anticipated. I had hoped to get the boat in early ... And maybe I'll be able to do so yet.

--Joe

[Steve Laume]

I got a stainless steel wire brush from a welding supply store. It is the kind that chucks into a drill and has the bristles coming straight out of the end in a tight bunch. It worked very well to clean things up. The brush is about 1" in diameter so I tended to use the edges to get into the groove on the port frame. The brass might be a bit too soft, Steve.