Caulk for hatches

[Carl Thunberg]

So, without going into a ton of chemistry, what's the difference between poly-ether caulks and the traditional polysulfide that I've always used with good results? I'm all for using better technology, and I'm also fairly conservative about abandoning a product that has served me well. Too little detail in this link to make an informed decision on this one.

[Paul D.]

I generally like Don Casey's advice on these types of things.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/sealant.asp

[tjr818]

...What do you all suggest for painting the aluminum frame? John

I would suggest rethinking that idea, for any paint to work well you would have to get the aluminum absolutely totally clean, and that can be hard to do. Is this cast aluminum, or is it extruded?

Epoxy paint would last for a while. Anodizing would be nice.

[Joe CD MS 300]

If you really wanted to paint the hatch I'd pull it out and have it powder coated. Not sure how the durability compares with two part epoxy but I think the powder process actually enhances the bonding to the metal.

[mgphl52]

I'm not sure where the 'paint' part comes in, but I just replaced the main salon hatch and used rubber butyl tape to seal it.
with 20 screws attaching it the coach roof, I didn' feel the need for "gluey" sealant. Just wanted a tried and true sealant.

[mgphl52]

You don't miss the ventilation?

???
I 'replaced' with a new Bomar hatch...

[Mv-typhoon]

BoatLife makes the best stuff Life-Calk sets under water and is great. Also takes paint

[Ron M.]

Replaced both hatch lights about 8 yrs ago. I removed the frames and sandblasted the cast aluminum entirely. Acid wash, primer and 2 part polyurethane paint. Made 2 plexiglass lenses and bed them to the frames with "G. E. Ultra Glaze" caulk which was recommended by the manufacturer,(Bomar). I had to order it from Pompanette (sp). It has held up perfectly since and no screws used to fasten the plexi to the frame.