Mast rake on a cd28?

[Benlieb]

Wondering what is the factory rake on the mast. Is it perfectly vertical? Anyone have any knowledge or recommendations on this, I just set the mast back up yesterday. Also factory stay tension as measured one a loose gauge? Thank you!

[Steve Laume]

Others with better knowledge of rig trim will certainly have some advise but I am never one to hold back with an opinion. Since your mast is set up and properly tensioned then it seems like you should just take her out and see how she sails. Different sails on another boat might call for more or less mast rake. I believe the masts on our boats tend to be pretty close to vertical.

Raven always seems to have a bit too much weather helm when trimmed to the best of my ability. When I had new rigging made up I had then make the backstay an inch longer. I don't even know if it made much difference but at least it wasn't enough to mess things up either. A new mainsail would probably go a lot further towards eliminating weather helm on my boat at this point, Steve.

[Wingaersheek II]

Steve is correct, the mast should be vertical. From the Cape Dory owner’s manual:

"The fore and aft alignment of your mast can be checked by comparing it to a vertical structure such as a radio tower, chimney, etc. Before checking the mast alignment in this manner be certain that the boat is resting on her designed waterline. If the mast is leaning for or aft, ease the turnbuckle toward which the mast is leaning a few turns, and take up a corresponding number of turns on the opposite turnbuckle."

[Benlieb]

Vertical is what I kinda thought. Is there a proper tension?

[Neil Gordon]

>> If the mast is leaning for or aft, ease the turnbuckle toward which the mast is leaning a few turns, and take up a corresponding number of turns on the opposite turnbuckle."<<

Without actually doing the math, I'm trying to visualize the extent to which the top of the mast would more, fore or aft, as a result of "a few turns" on the turnbuckles. Is it more than a few millimeters (aka, "not at all")?

[tjr818]

Neil, My math is rusty, but I tried Pythagorus on this and to me it seems as though it works. My fuzzy math says that if you shorten an upper shroud by 1/2" the masts will move almost 4" at the top. Shortening the forestay by 1/2" moves the mast forward 1 1/2". All of this base on a CD27.

We need a mathematician here! Any takers

[Wingaersheek II]

The following from the Cape Dory Owner's Manual has always worked well for me:

3.29 TUNING THE STANDING RIGGING

The purpose of tuning the rig is to adjust the center of effort of the sail plan fore or aft to obtain a slight weather helm in moderate winds, and to keep it straight without hooks to port, starboard, fore or aft. Properly tuning the rig is an important process which should be attempted only by qualified personnel; consult your Cape Dory dealer.

The fore and aft alignment of your mast can be checked by comparing it to a vertical structure such as a radio tower, chimney, etc. Before checking the mast alignment in this manner, be certain that the boat is resting on her design waterline. If the mast is leaning fore or aft, ease the turnbuckle toward which the mast is leaning a few turns, and take up a corresponding number of turns of the opposite turnbuckle. (Note: when adjusting turnbuckles never use excessive force or the turnbuckle may be contorted.) Always prevent the upper threaded turnbuckle stud from turning. The Cape Dory 30 ketch has a split backstay with two turnbuckles. Headstays and backstays should never be taken up so tightly that they will not “give” an inch or so if you pull on them with moderate force.

Upper shrouds should also be tightened equally and have about an inch of “give” to them. Forward lower shrouds should have one to two inches of “give”, and the aft lowers slightly more.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES TAKE UP THE RIGGING TO BAR TIGHT TENSION. Both the mast and the boat can be severely damaged by excessive tension.

Fine tuning of the rig can be completed after the boat has been sailed, and may have to be done again after the boat has been out in strong winds. When sailing, it is important that the mast remain straight and as nearly in column as possible at all times. While sailing close hauled, sight up the mast track and note any mast curve. Does the mast appear to be falling off to leeward at the top, or does it hook upwind? Repeat this procedure on the opposite tack.

If the masthead is falling off on both tacks, the forward lower shrouds are too tight and the upper shrouds are too loose. If the masthead hooks to windward, the upper shroud is too tight in relation to the lower on the same side. When sailing to windward, the forward lower shrouds bear a greater load than the after lower shrouds; however, the after lower shrouds on the windward side should never be loose. All shroud tuning should be done from the leeward side. If the rig seems to be equally balanced when you begin, duplicate every half turn from side to side.

On Cape Dory boats with bowsprits, try to keep the bowsprit straight and not bowed up or down. This should be checked while sailing upwind in moderate conditions.

CHECK TO SEE THAT ALL COTTER PINS OR RINGS ARE IN PLACE AND THAT ALL SHARP EDGES ARE TAPED.

Rigging that has split strands of wire or cracked swage fittings should be discarded and replaced.