Split Teak Coaming

[Skeep]

Pursuant to the problem in discussion, I never use my coamings for anything but splash protection. They simply aren't sufficiently durable for tying-to for anything more than to affix the rudder alignment for haul-out. I too have a partial crack in one coaming near the stern end which I baby along. Character.

[joemerchant]

Helped a friend with a little Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer he is trying to restore on the cheap. The key to buying teak is shopping and not being afraid to build your board up with strips, glue and clamps from smaller pieces. Hardest part, as mentioned, is removing the old to install the new. $200 in wood, clamps, glue, and a lot of time and patience and it will look like new. You can patch it up by filling, gluing and sanding, but from the looks of the teak, it will only be a band aide solution, but one I would probably opt for personally unless I was restoring the rest to match. To do a proper scarf joint, you would need to remove it, if you are going to remove it, then you may as well replace it. Sand, fill, glue, cetol, and sail. Or remove build, fit, glue, sand and work through half a season, then sail.

[tartansailor]

[/url]

YesI did the bow tie regimen thing some time ago. If you go that route, you will find that Caqpe Dory installed a screw
in the aft end apex center that needs to be removed if you wish to open the split wide enough to inject epoxy.

[Neil Gordon]

Pursuant to the problem in discussion, I never use my coamings for anything but splash protection. They simply aren't sufficiently durable for tying-to for anything more than to affix the rudder alignment for haul-out.

There was a post a while back where someone used a coaming cleat to hold a dock line during a raft up. Bad idea!!!

[Gulf Coast Greg]

I am replacing my combing boards with African Teak

[Gulf Coast Greg]

image.jpg

image.jpg

[adamganz]

Greg, where did you pick up the teak? Mind telling me how much it was? Also, what are your plans for the 90 degree returns at the front of the boards? Adam

[Keith]

I'm replacing my bow sprit. The old one was oak (I think) with a 1/2 piece of teak on top for asthetics. The rot was so much worse then I had imagined. Glad I decided to replace this winter. I'll post under another thread. They want about $500 for a piece 53" x 10 1/4 " x 1 3/4". I can get a laminate piece for half that. I'm concerned about the strength. Looking for inputs and experience.

Keith

[tjr818]

Laminate will be stronger I would think that with a proper Bobstay set up the only forces on a bowsprit would be longitudinal compression with the forestay canceling out any bending. Now if you add an anchor roller things get a bit more complicated,but I would still prefer laminated over single ply. Amy weakness in the grain of one layer will be reinforced by the other layer. It should stay straighter with less chance of any warping.

[Neil Gordon]

Now if you add an anchor roller things get a bit more complicated, ...

Yes, but only with respect to the anchor and not with respect to the rig, which I suggest is what you mean.

The complication is eliminated if the roller is used for anchor storage, deploying and retrieving only. I lead my rode through a chock and back to a cleat.

[Keith]

Thanks Neil & Tim,

Yes it is my opinion as well that laminated is actually stronger then the single piece of stock but was just looking for a second opinion and third in this case. Yes, I only use the bow roller for storage, deploying and retrieving not anchoring. When I get a bit more time I'll start another thread for my project and post the very ugly pictures. I'm also replacing the steel bow support G-10 I think. Both are out of the boat.

Thanks again

[Gulf Coast Greg]

The African Teak came from Peeples Exotic Wood in Contonment Florida and cost $270. I plan to use the teak that attaches to the house as they are undamaged and are still pretty thick

[tjr818]

The African Teak came from Peeples Exotic Wood in Contonment Florida and cost $270. I plan to use the teak that attaches to the house as they are undamaged and are still pretty thick

$270, although quite a few boat dollars. does not seem too bad. What about shipping? This is the only time that I envy those living on the East Coast. Shipping anything over eight foot in length or over anything 20 pounds to STL cost almost as much as the product itself.

I am planning to build a wooden dingy and I am pretty much limited to under 8 foot length, because of shipping, unless I go strip plank and cut my own strips from Home Depot stock.

[Ron M.]

Quite a bit of discussion on bowsprits in the archives.
Many CD's, including mine had ash bowsprits. Ash does resemble oak, and is somewhat lighter in color.
I considered using teak but couldn't justify the cost. I chose quarter sawn white oak which is native, stable and rot resistant, (exterior door thresholds were white oak for that reason) .
I laminated 1" x 1-3/4" lengths with 3/8" stainless steel threaded rod , (3) at 90 degrees to the grain. Teak colored oil stain and varnished.
Looks good after 8 years.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Half of a brass hinge with the slots for pins cut off with a hacksaw makes an excellent stabilizer - oxidizes to a nice green. Fast and cheap and not completely unaesthetic...not the solution if you are into "wood", though.