No Bottom Paint?

[Markst95]

I'm thinking of Purchasing a boat that is on a trailer that is not included in the sale. The owner may store the boat for me this winter and launch it in the spring. The bottom of the hull has been mostly stripped and I won't have a chance to paint it on his trailer if he launches it for me. I'll be mooring it in fresh water with 3 to 5 day ocean trips. Will this be ok without having any bottom paint for a season? I did notice a few blister on one section of the hull.

[Jim Walsh]

Antifouling is required in fresh and saltwater.....and everything in between

[Markst95]

Jim- I'd be mooring in Wethersfield cove. I don't think anything grows in there anymore. Plus with frequent trips to salt water wouldn't it kill anything that started to grow on the hull? And visa versa for any salt water growth? I'm more worried about the blisters.

[psjanker]

Mark
I would be concerned about putting in a boat for any length of time without an effective barrier coat. My 28 had been on the hard for 12 years, when I purchased her, and had an ablative bottom covering that must have had 20 coats. I was very tempted to splash the boat and sail for the season as is. However, I elected however to totally strip the boat to the gel coat, repair the small blisters and put on a solid e2000 barrier coat.

Putting the boat in the water would have given up the benefit of the hull being totally dry. Sounds like the most unpleasant portion of stripping the hull has been accomplished on your future boat. I would recommend repairing the blisters and at least putting on a barrier coat prior to putting the boat in the water.

I am assuming you are going to keep the boat for a long time.

V/r

Pete

[tjr818]

What size boat are we talking about? A small boat could be jacked up off of the trailer, painted, and set back down on the trailer during the winter and early spring before launching. Doing it now before putting it in the water will save you a lot of money and time since it has already been stripped and is ready for a barrier coat and paint.

[Astronomertoo]

Mark
However, I elected however to totally strip the boat to the gel coat, repair the small blisters and put on a solid e2000 barrier coat.
V/r
Pete

---
Hey Pete,
Since you mentioned it, did you just sand off the old coats (with tons of protection) or use a remover solution and scrapers? I do know how much fun that is, as I did my old much smaller Kittywake 23 back at Galveston Bay long ago, and do not look forward to it. But your note is a reminder that I really should do this CD25, as it is currently dry. Mine could really use the exposure and a fresh coat e2000 for the same reasons, although I do not believe it has any blisters. I am on the trailer now, protected in a big RV garage in Florida, and this is the right time and weather for me.
Bob C

[psjanker]

Bob
I put a tarp under the boat and purchased a random orbital 90 degree sander along with a full face respirator. Dirty job but between the tools and some good sandpaper it wasn’t so bad. I used the heavy duty sander to get down to where I could see patches of gel coat and then switched to a palm sander with 100 grit (started with 25 grit for much of the old bottom paint).

The “blisters” were what folks commonly call pox and were mainly near the bow of the 28. They were about the size of a bb and not difficult to fix. I respect e2000 so much that I elected to use it as a barrier coat on the deck of my 30 this past spring. I talked to Interlux and they indicated that there was no issue with prepping the deck painting right over. I then covered the antiskid with KIWI and used Perfection for the rest of the topsides. I had repaired some soft spots on the deck and felt that e2000 could be an effective method for keeping water away from the core….Interlux indicated that it would do the job.

The only issue I had with the e2000 is that it is very slick. After the first season on my 28 I was amazed to have the bottom ablative paint explode off the hull when I pressure washed the bottom growth off of the area that the crane slings had covered. I had pressure washed the hull when haul out but the week of “drying” resulted in the ablative paint lifting from the e2000.

I called Interlux and they sent out a technical representative (George Dunigan) to take a look at the boat (I could hardly believe that a company would send anyone to the field for such a minor issue) George took a look and indicated that the sanding of the e2000 had not been aggressive enough to give the ablative paint a surface sufficiently rough to adhere to. I thought that was a fair assessment and I recall thinking to myself, when I was doing the painting, how nice the e2000 had looked after the 4th or 5th coat and how hard it was to take sandpaper to it after having just putting it on.

George recommend that I apply the ablative paint while the e2000 was still tacky (hot painting) which I did the second time around and have had no problems since.(just think about having to sand off ones ablative paint off (two coats black and three of blue) a complete hull two summers in a roll…..I had the sanding down!!)

What was incredible was that George asked me to call him early the next Spring and he replaced and shipped all the paint necessary to re-barrier coat and bottom paint the hull! It’s nice when a company stands behind their product even when the customer is the one that made a mistake.

V/r

Pete

[Astronomertoo]

Bob
I put a tarp under the boat and purchased a random orbital 90 degree sander along with a full face respirator. Dirty job but between the tools and some good sandpaper it wasn’t so bad. I used the heavy duty sander to get down to where I could see patches of gel coat and then switched to a palm sander with 100 grit (started with 25 grit for much of the old bottom paint).

The only issue I had with the e2000 is that it is very slick. After the first season on my 28 I was amazed to have the bottom ablative paint explode off the hull when I pressure washed the bottom growth off of the area that the crane slings had covered. I had pressure washed the hull when haul out but the week of “drying” resulted in the ablative paint lifting from the e2000.

I called Interlux and they sent out a technical representative (George Dunigan) to take a look at the boat (I could hardly believe that a company would send anyone to the field for such a minor issue) George took a look and indicated that the sanding of the e2000 had not been aggressive enough to give the ablative paint a surface sufficiently rough to adhere to. I thought that was a fair assessment and I recall thinking to myself, when I was doing the painting, how nice the e2000 had looked after the 4th or 5th coat and how hard it was to take sandpaper to it after having just putting it on.

George recommend that I apply the ablative paint while the e2000 was still tacky (hot painting) which I did the second time around and have had no problems since.(just think about having to sand off ones ablative paint off (two coats black and three of blue) a complete hull two summers in a roll…..I had the sanding down!!)

What was incredible was that George asked me to call him early the next Spring and he replaced and shipped all the paint necessary to re-barrier coat and bottom paint the hull! It’s nice when a company stands behind their product even when the customer is the one that made a mistake.

V/r

Pete

---------------
Wow. Clearly, after several episodes of that kind of fun, you have suffered sufficiently to win a trophy for ambition and tolerance for bottom jobs! Good job, and looks great too. My hat is off to you, and we all need a friendly representative like George on our side. I shall also use their product. Hot paint it shall be.
Btw, Which type of Ablative bottom paint did you use?

I have accumulated all the tools and safety gear to do that job, which I was not planning on doing as the hull generally looks good. But the bottom paint is so thick I am concerned what might be hidden. And if it is to be done, it is going to happen before splashdown. My own plans for my older boat were similar to how Stanley Friehoffer started, and progressed on his own 25, which must include super cleaning and painting all the ugly bilges and lockers, after I find out where my marked outside weeps were coming from. This boat is a planned retirement job which I bought and brought down from up north, so I suspect some ice damage. Therefore I need to look at the outside hull as well. That can happen before I replace the 2 main bulkheads which are both either rotten at the bottom rear, or partially removed on the stbd side forward by a PO. That was not cool. That and the plumbing, wiring, adding new larger scupper valves, and replacing a small area of core on the portside near the jib sheet winch will keep me basy for a while. There is obviously enough more "stuff" to keep me busy for a while, which I look forward to after a few more major home (retirement) improvements. Luckily the boat included a good strong trailer and other good componenents.
Best wishes to all.
Bob C

[JWSutcliffe]

Mark:

I used to trailer a power boat to Hartford for day excursions on the river. Since the boat was rarely in the water for more than 8 hours I did not have anti fouling bottom paint on it. After occasional overnights in Wethersfield Cove I would notice a slime buildup on the bare bottom (after only 16 or so hours of exposure.)

[Jim Walsh]

Mark:

I used to trailer a power boat to Hartford for day excursions on the river. Since the boat was rarely in the water for more than 8 hours I did not have anti fouling bottom paint on it. After occasional overnights in Wethersfield Cove I would notice a slime buildup on the bare bottom (after only 16 or so hours of exposure.)

Markst95,
Looks like Skip has provided a definitive answer to your query. If you don't apply bottom paint, as I first suggested, your bottom will be fouled, whether in fresh or salt water.

[Markst95]

thanks for all the info.

[psjanker]

Bob

I used Interlux Micron Plus but would recommend talking to an Interlux represenative or some locals since I understand that the best bottom paint is dependent on the location. One question I never asked Interlux was splashing the boat with just e2000 on the bottom. My take is that it would be fine and most anything could be scrubbed off of course I am referring to fresh water use. One would also need a tint unless one wanted a white or gray bottom.

Good luck with your job, I really agree that in Florida the best season to undertake the task is winter. Looking forward to getting my 28 down to Key West in the year or so.

V/r

Pete

[psjanker]

Sorry about the photo. It somehow loaded due to my mistake. It is however one of our favorite watering holes in Key West (actually on Stock Island's Marina area) the Hog Fish Grill. It's my son and his wife.

The only way I could get my wife to accept (or perhaps somewhat tolerate two Cape Dories) was to claim that it provided a boat for my son! My granddaughter is only 8 months but in a few years she'll be ready for a Typhoon.

V/r

Pete