I am planning to strip off the old non skid on my 76 Typhoon. I don't plan to go back with the light blue and probably not the biege. I had orignally planned to used paint with sand or some other non skid material mixed with the paint. I ordered gelcoat from GCP (thanks to Dana's post) and while talking to them I asked if I could just paint on the gelcoat in the non skid area and roll in a texture. They said that this could easily be done. I know that on some production boats it is done this way. It means that the only contrast between the nonskid and the rest of the deck is the difference in texture. Since I don't like the lt blue/red of the 70's or the brown/biege of the 80's or the dk blue/gray of other 90's boats I am leaning towards copying the paint scheme on a drawing of a Dark Harbor 20 shown in Joel White's book Wood, Water & Light. After all of this, the question is, has anyone tried texturing gelcoat for the non skid? Any pros or cons? Is it a problem to mix up that much gelcoat/hardener to cover the non skid area of a typhoon before it kicks? Thank you for your help.
John
branchedoakmarina@allte.net
non skid on typhoon
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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sloopjohnl
Re: non skid on typhoon
john,
i'm in the same ballgame with you. i am re-doing the nonskid on my '76 typhoon also. the previous and only other owner painted the factory non-skid with a slightly darker blue and did not do a very good job. i sanded it all down in november and went through the gelcoat in two spots - not much gelcoat on the decking. i was planning on applying two coats of west system epoxy, sanding smooth, then interthane primer followed by interthane plus with their non-skid additive. the times i have worked with gelcoat have discouraged me from trying anything large like the non-skid areas, but surely these would be more forgiving as to flaws.
hope to see some posts regarding this endeavor before i order the materials.
good luck to both of us!
i'm in the same ballgame with you. i am re-doing the nonskid on my '76 typhoon also. the previous and only other owner painted the factory non-skid with a slightly darker blue and did not do a very good job. i sanded it all down in november and went through the gelcoat in two spots - not much gelcoat on the decking. i was planning on applying two coats of west system epoxy, sanding smooth, then interthane primer followed by interthane plus with their non-skid additive. the times i have worked with gelcoat have discouraged me from trying anything large like the non-skid areas, but surely these would be more forgiving as to flaws.
hope to see some posts regarding this endeavor before i order the materials.
good luck to both of us!
John Phillips wrote: I am planning to strip off the old non skid on my 76 Typhoon. I don't plan to go back with the light blue and probably not the biege. I had orignally planned to used paint with sand or some other non skid material mixed with the paint. I ordered gelcoat from GCP (thanks to Dana's post) and while talking to them I asked if I could just paint on the gelcoat in the non skid area and roll in a texture. They said that this could easily be done. I know that on some production boats it is done this way. It means that the only contrast between the nonskid and the rest of the deck is the difference in texture. Since I don't like the lt blue/red of the 70's or the brown/biege of the 80's or the dk blue/gray of other 90's boats I am leaning towards copying the paint scheme on a drawing of a Dark Harbor 20 shown in Joel White's book Wood, Water & Light. After all of this, the question is, has anyone tried texturing gelcoat for the non skid? Any pros or cons? Is it a problem to mix up that much gelcoat/hardener to cover the non skid area of a typhoon before it kicks? Thank you for your help.
John
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Bill Bloxham
Re: non skid on typhoon
Hi Sloop
Redid the antiskid when I repainted a few years ago, and it worked very well. I sanded the old stuff, and like you, took some gelcoat off. I used WEST system epoxy and #407 low density filler to seal the deck and bring it back to grade(not that I would ever notice a slight dip in the surface with that texture anyway). Then I painted on a layer of Petit Easypoxy (it was most highly rated by Practical Sailor). While the paint was still wet I sprinkled Awlgrip Griptex from a salt shaker onto the area. The second coat of paint (rolled on with a WEST foam roller) covered everything. The finish did not wear thru in 4 years of sailing, and when I painted another layer over the antiskid this past spring the deck still had grip.
The only difficult part is getting those curves in the paintline right at the front by the chocks. You might try making a cardboard template to cut the masking tape away, and flipping it over to do the mirror image side.
By the way, I never got around to buying the canvas cover this fall. The boat is outside uncovered at this moment, and most likely has 4 feet of snow on deck.
I guess I'll get to paint again this spring.
I have about 85% of the small can of Griptex left - send me a physical address to mmmmmmbill@aol.com and I'll send you enough to do the boat.
Good luck and a dry spring.
Bill
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
Redid the antiskid when I repainted a few years ago, and it worked very well. I sanded the old stuff, and like you, took some gelcoat off. I used WEST system epoxy and #407 low density filler to seal the deck and bring it back to grade(not that I would ever notice a slight dip in the surface with that texture anyway). Then I painted on a layer of Petit Easypoxy (it was most highly rated by Practical Sailor). While the paint was still wet I sprinkled Awlgrip Griptex from a salt shaker onto the area. The second coat of paint (rolled on with a WEST foam roller) covered everything. The finish did not wear thru in 4 years of sailing, and when I painted another layer over the antiskid this past spring the deck still had grip.
The only difficult part is getting those curves in the paintline right at the front by the chocks. You might try making a cardboard template to cut the masking tape away, and flipping it over to do the mirror image side.
By the way, I never got around to buying the canvas cover this fall. The boat is outside uncovered at this moment, and most likely has 4 feet of snow on deck.
I guess I'll get to paint again this spring.
I have about 85% of the small can of Griptex left - send me a physical address to mmmmmmbill@aol.com and I'll send you enough to do the boat.
Good luck and a dry spring.
Bill
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
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Paul Rossmann
Re: non skid on typhoon
John, I have done a few boats, both glass and wood, and here is what I have found works great. Prep the deck for painting, and roll on "Allgrip" paint with a foam roller. Let that dry and mask off the area that you want to be nonskid. roll on another coat of paint in teh nonskid area, but before it dries, spinkle the non skid (not sand) onto the wet paint with a shaker. Don't put a lot down - you can always add later. Anyway, after that coat dries, pull off the tape and roll another, without the nonskid, over the top of it. You can add more coats to cut down on the abrasive qualities - or - more nonskid and additional coats to build up. Its easy to paint and will go on over polyester or epoxy. Good Luck - Paul
prossmann@aol.com
prossmann@aol.com
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Marino Curati
me too
Mine was over-painted dark blue too! Whoever did it didn't really do a good job because you can see the light blue peering out in many spots. I'd like to redo this as well but didn't realize I had to sand. Is there a chemical stripper that can be used in lieu of sanding? The paint that is on there is really weak. It smears a little when I scrub the deck so I think it will come off easily.
Marino Curati
Ty #74 Snug
Cleveland
mcurati@vision-design-inc.com
Marino Curati
Ty #74 Snug
Cleveland
mcurati@vision-design-inc.com
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Mike Buppert
Re: non skid on typhoon
John,
When you sand the nonskid parts of the deck are you sanding off the molded in texture or just the paint covering it? Our CD25 has a cross hatch texture formed into the deck and I could see where trying to sand this completely would take off gelcoat. Just curious because the light blue on our deck is wearing thin and I am considering going to tan in the spring, if the snow ever melts here in NJ.
thanks
MB
CD25 "Lucille"
Toms River Yacht Club
Barnegat Bay NJ
buppert@csionline.net
When you sand the nonskid parts of the deck are you sanding off the molded in texture or just the paint covering it? Our CD25 has a cross hatch texture formed into the deck and I could see where trying to sand this completely would take off gelcoat. Just curious because the light blue on our deck is wearing thin and I am considering going to tan in the spring, if the snow ever melts here in NJ.
thanks
MB
CD25 "Lucille"
Toms River Yacht Club
Barnegat Bay NJ
sloopjohnl wrote: john,
i'm in the same ballgame with you. i am re-doing the nonskid on my '76 typhoon also. the previous and only other owner painted the factory non-skid with a slightly darker blue and did not do a very good job. i sanded it all down in november and went through the gelcoat in two spots - not much gelcoat on the decking. i was planning on applying two coats of west system epoxy, sanding smooth, then interthane primer followed by interthane plus with their non-skid additive. the times i have worked with gelcoat have discouraged me from trying anything large like the non-skid areas, but surely these would be more forgiving as to flaws.
hope to see some posts regarding this endeavor before i order the materials.
good luck to both of us!
John Phillips wrote: I am planning to strip off the old non skid on my 76 Typhoon. I don't plan to go back with the light blue and probably not the biege. I had orignally planned to used paint with sand or some other non skid material mixed with the paint. I ordered gelcoat from GCP (thanks to Dana's post) and while talking to them I asked if I could just paint on the gelcoat in the non skid area and roll in a texture. They said that this could easily be done. I know that on some production boats it is done this way. It means that the only contrast between the nonskid and the rest of the deck is the difference in texture. Since I don't like the lt blue/red of the 70's or the brown/biege of the 80's or the dk blue/gray of other 90's boats I am leaning towards copying the paint scheme on a drawing of a Dark Harbor 20 shown in Joel White's book Wood, Water & Light. After all of this, the question is, has anyone tried texturing gelcoat for the non skid? Any pros or cons? Is it a problem to mix up that much gelcoat/hardener to cover the non skid area of a typhoon before it kicks? Thank you for your help.
John
buppert@csionline.net
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John Phillips
Re: me too
I have been using Interlux Interstriper. It worked real well on the boot stripe, but because of the three coats it looks like a slower process on the non skid. Over the years there has been at least three different shades of blue used. I talked with Signature Paints today and they claim to have a good product for redoing the non skid. They recommended sanding with 60 grit, but if the striper works, I might not create a new hole for a hatch. If I remember correctly, there have been a few favorable comments on Signature Paints. I haven't done a search yet.
John
branchedoakmarina@alltel.net
John
Marino Curati wrote: Mine was over-painted dark blue too! Whoever did it didn't really do a good job because you can see the light blue peering out in many spots. I'd like to redo this as well but didn't realize I had to sand. Is there a chemical stripper that can be used in lieu of sanding? The paint that is on there is really weak. It smears a little when I scrub the deck so I think it will come off easily.
Marino Curati
Ty #74 Snug
Cleveland
branchedoakmarina@alltel.net
-
sloopjohnl
Re: non skid on typhoon
mike,
my typhoon did not have a texture to the non-skid, just some added grit i believe. i do not know whether the original owner (Warren Johnson, from Tom's River area - kept the boat at Leaming"s) just painted or added grit also.
my typhoon did not have a texture to the non-skid, just some added grit i believe. i do not know whether the original owner (Warren Johnson, from Tom's River area - kept the boat at Leaming"s) just painted or added grit also.
Mike Buppert wrote: John,
When you sand the nonskid parts of the deck are you sanding off the molded in texture or just the paint covering it? Our CD25 has a cross hatch texture formed into the deck and I could see where trying to sand this completely would take off gelcoat. Just curious because the light blue on our deck is wearing thin and I am considering going to tan in the spring, if the snow ever melts here in NJ.
thanks
MB
CD25 "Lucille"
Toms River Yacht Club
Barnegat Bay NJ
sloopjohnl wrote: john,
i'm in the same ballgame with you. i am re-doing the nonskid on my '76 typhoon also. the previous and only other owner painted the factory non-skid with a slightly darker blue and did not do a very good job. i sanded it all down in november and went through the gelcoat in two spots - not much gelcoat on the decking. i was planning on applying two coats of west system epoxy, sanding smooth, then interthane primer followed by interthane plus with their non-skid additive. the times i have worked with gelcoat have discouraged me from trying anything large like the non-skid areas, but surely these would be more forgiving as to flaws.
hope to see some posts regarding this endeavor before i order the materials.
good luck to both of us!
sloopjohnl wrote:John Phillips wrote: I am planning to strip off the old non skid on my 76 Typhoon. I don't plan to go back with the light blue and probably not the biege. I had orignally planned to used paint with sand or some other non skid material mixed with the paint. I ordered gelcoat from GCP (thanks to Dana's post) and while talking to them I asked if I could just paint on the gelcoat in the non skid area and roll in a texture. They said that this could easily be done. I know that on some production boats it is done this way. It means that the only contrast between the nonskid and the rest of the deck is the difference in texture. Since I don't like the lt blue/red of the 70's or the brown/biege of the 80's or the dk blue/gray of other 90's boats I am leaning towards copying the paint scheme on a drawing of a Dark Harbor 20 shown in Joel White's book Wood, Water & Light. After all of this, the question is, has anyone tried texturing gelcoat for the non skid? Any pros or cons? Is it a problem to mix up that much gelcoat/hardener to cover the non skid area of a typhoon before it kicks? Thank you for your help.
John
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sloopjohnl
Re: me too
Marino,
it only took me about three hours to do the deck and the cockpit sole with 80 grit on a random-orbit sander. the burn throughs were no fault of the sander, grit or me (i think), just some manufacturing high laminate spots and both were only the size of a dime. my main reason for using the epoxy would be as a sealer and surfacer.
i'll take three hours of sanding over stripping any day.
it only took me about three hours to do the deck and the cockpit sole with 80 grit on a random-orbit sander. the burn throughs were no fault of the sander, grit or me (i think), just some manufacturing high laminate spots and both were only the size of a dime. my main reason for using the epoxy would be as a sealer and surfacer.
i'll take three hours of sanding over stripping any day.
Marino Curati wrote: Mine was over-painted dark blue too! Whoever did it didn't really do a good job because you can see the light blue peering out in many spots. I'd like to redo this as well but didn't realize I had to sand. Is there a chemical stripper that can be used in lieu of sanding? The paint that is on there is really weak. It smears a little when I scrub the deck so I think it will come off easily.
Marino Curati
Ty #74 Snug
Cleveland
-
Bob Miller
Re: non skid on typhoon
John - I had a Ty for 17 seasons and only once did I paint the decks. I used Interlux poly and I added this non-skid stuff in a small can that Interlux made. It worked really well and held up for several years without wearing through. I put the original lite blue over again, so that was not a problem. I lightly sanded the old coat first. I have also heard of people using crushed walnut shells but I don't know if that is an old wive's tale or not...
- Bob Miller
millerfam5050@worldnet.att.net
- Bob Miller
millerfam5050@worldnet.att.net
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Paul D.
Re: non skid on typhoon
John,
I redid our '76 ty's decks two years ago and they still look great. I did a total refit so I decided to save some money with this job and just used under a quart of Interlux Brightside in a medium grey. We washed the deck, sanded the nonskid area with 80 grit, cleaned and wiped with acetone then masked with blue tape and rolled on the first coat. Rolled on a second coat the next day and shook on the non-skid like the others. When that dried we rolled one last coat on and pulled the tape. Everyone comments on the excellent non-skid properties and good looks. (This, unfortunately is how I judge my work, but then again, folks could lie!) The part to watch is the consistency of shaking on the non-skid. There are a few spots that I let a bit too much go and it shows as a rougher patch on the foredeck. The paint lines are clean though and it was an inexpensive, solid job that adds to the function and beauty of our little HORNET. I recommend this approach.
Good luck,
Paul Danicic
#1178 HORNET
MPLS MN
nyeme001@tc.umn.edu
I redid our '76 ty's decks two years ago and they still look great. I did a total refit so I decided to save some money with this job and just used under a quart of Interlux Brightside in a medium grey. We washed the deck, sanded the nonskid area with 80 grit, cleaned and wiped with acetone then masked with blue tape and rolled on the first coat. Rolled on a second coat the next day and shook on the non-skid like the others. When that dried we rolled one last coat on and pulled the tape. Everyone comments on the excellent non-skid properties and good looks. (This, unfortunately is how I judge my work, but then again, folks could lie!) The part to watch is the consistency of shaking on the non-skid. There are a few spots that I let a bit too much go and it shows as a rougher patch on the foredeck. The paint lines are clean though and it was an inexpensive, solid job that adds to the function and beauty of our little HORNET. I recommend this approach.
Good luck,
Paul Danicic
#1178 HORNET
MPLS MN
nyeme001@tc.umn.edu