CD33 outhaul, topping lift, rigging...?

[swisscatfive]

the mast is up and now it's time to figure out how to re-rig! when i bought the boat, the mast was down. i also removed an outdated external roller furling system on the main, and replaced the boom and gooseneck (thanks, john!) i've been searching the internet for pics of how to reattach everything, but haven't had much luck. anyone out there with a cd33 (main sheet traveler in the cockpit) that could send me some pics of the rigging on the boom? particularly the topping lift, main sheet, reefing lines. i think i've got the outhaul sorted out correctly, but a pic or description of that might be a good double-check. thanks guys!

[Tom Keevil]

Here are a few photos that show some of the rigging. I can't find a photo of the mainsheet triple block, but you can see the two blocks on the boom and see how the upper end is rigged. It starts at a becket block on the boom, goes down through the triple block, back up through the becket block, back down through the triple block, up through the single block, and down through the triple block to the cam cleat.

The topping lift is a length of steel wire fixed to the masthead with a becket block attached to the end. The line starts at the becket, runs down through a block on the end of the boom, back up through the becket block, down to a cheek block on the port side of the boom, and forward to the most forward cleat. The cleat to the aft of that is for the outhaul, which goes inside the boom.

The reefing lines attach to the padeyes on the port side of the boom, go up through the reefing grommet in the sail, down through the cheek block, and forward to a cleat. You'll note that we have hardware for three reefs, but only two are rigged.

Those extra lines on the boom are the E-Z Jacks.

[Tom Keevil]

Here are a couple more photos that might be useful.

[swisscatfive]

thanks a bunch for the pics!! they help!

[Paul D.]

Here is how ours is rigged. Sorry our scanner's broke or I could have drawn a better one and sent it. The line starts from the aft block on the boom with a becket to the top block on the traveller three block set up, back up to the aft boom block, back to the middle traveller block, up to the aft end of the forward boom block then down to the bottom traveller block and out the cam cleat. I think running the line this way has the least friction and doesn't cross itself. I actually like this set up better than a winch on the coachroof next to the companionway. Faster adjusting of the main and easily reached from the helm. It can be a little tough in high wind but then that is a sign to reduce sail!.

Hope this schematic helps.

[swisscatfive]

thanks, paul! sorry for the delayed response...last month was all "real" work and then the finishing touches for splash day! the schematic definitely helps...and i've got a bit of re-rigging to do.

[Paul D.]

No worries. Hope you got out on the water some. I just had my last sail of the season. Solo sailed through sunset out to one of my favorite Islands with 25-30 Knots on the nose. With two reefs in the main and the new genny rolled out just to the shrouds, she made a good 5.5 - 6kts with a pretty easy helm. I would have liked a flatter main though, but that's just nit picking.

It was still blowing. Anchored that night in lee of Presque Isle Bay with waves powered by the fetch of all of Lake Superior pounding the beach on the other side of the Tombolo, the wood stove kept me warm and dry down below - I love the 33! As one of my marina mates said when I got back Sunday, "I was surprised you went out that day. Though the rest of us did say it was Cape Dory weather!"

[Sea Hunt Video]

Paul:

30 degree angle

[Jim Walsh]

Nice Paul!
I notice you haven't secured the bunt of your main with your reef points. I haven't for many years. I still have the cringles placed in my main but I never reeve the points. I took the advice of Hal Roth and I've never looked back.

[Paul D.]

Jim,

Yes, I got a wee bit lazy with the reef points.