Tohatsu Sail Pro 6 for CD 25

[jreinhard]

I am interested in re-powering my "81 CD 25. The Tohatsu Sail Pro 6 seems to be a popular choice. There is some ambiguity about the fit in the forums. Can any of the owners of this motor in a CD 25 verify that the motor will fit in the well with the hatch closed.

I have not been able to determine the motor height from the bracket to the top of the cowling. Does anyone have this number?

Is this motor happy running with the hatch closed?

Thanks

[Bibster]

In my experience, the Tohatsu 6hp was a little too "tall" for the hatch to close completely, by about 1/2". I didn't make any alterations to the hatch, I simply stuck a couple of those thick, stick-on pads that one puts on the bottom of furniture legs to protect wood floors on top of the cowling. That worked well enough for my purposes -- did a good job of protecting the engine cowling and the hatch, and one had to look pretty closely to notice that the hatch was not fully closed. Other folks have inserted small blocks of wood under the hinges to raise the height of the hatch then placed wood blocks or strips around the edges of the hatch opening to serve as shims on which the hatch rests.

Whenever I tried to run my Tohatsu with the hatch closed, the engine would run rough and begin to stall, so I always kept the hatch open whenever I ran the motor.

[pete faga]

Same as Bibster regarding using pads for chafe protection.
Never ran the hatch closed with the 4 stroke running

[Steve Bryant]

Hi jreinhard,

I have the same motor. My motor mount board is made from a treated 2X6. I cut a two inch (2") notch the width of the engine bracket in the top of motor mount board in order to lower the motor enough to close the hatch, and it works fine. I have had no problem running this engine with the hatch closed as it exhausts through the prop housing. The only minor issue with lowering the motor is that the space available for tightening down the motor mounting lugs on the engine once it's sitting on the mounting board. It's a tight fit getting your hands down in there in the well to turn the lugs.

I can send you a photo if you shoot me an email. You will really like the engine.

Good Luck,

[jreinhard]

Thanks to all for the quick replies! I like the idea of running with the hatch closed for sound damping in cases where longer trips under power are required.

Seems like Steve has hit on a solution. Bibster, do you have cowl vents on the hatch? Curious as to why your motor stalls hatch down and Steve's runs well.

Jim

[damvolpe]

Hi there. I installed this engine a few weeks ago for my CD25 1974's first journey. 3 days under sail and motor. The engine juuust fits. I have to keep the throttle arm up but since I'm steering with the rudder this isn't a big deal. I do have the hatch closed. It rests on the top of the cowling and made a bit of a mess but the engine ran well with the hatch closed and pretty quiet. I do have a vent on the top of the hatch. I also installed some thin foam on the top of the cowling. I'm really happy with this motor so far. I got the 20" version and it ran great in heavy swells. Hope this helps.

[jreinhard]

Thanks, seems to verify Steve's experience with the motor. You might try to lower the mount as Steve did to get more cowl clearance.

[mgiampaoli]

My mechanic questioned the power of the 6 hp, single cylinder ( vibration) . Have you any issues with the guts of the motor?

[pete faga]

No problem with vibration here.
I have had 2 of these engines in the last 8 years.
As far as power goes it pushes the boat o.k. Unless there is a good current and head wind in the same direction and then you have to throttle up.
Use non-ethanol or learn how to take the carb off for cleaning every year
Pete