Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Calclements
- Posts: 16
- Joined: May 5th, '14, 07:27
- Location: Typhoon #784
Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
I discovered an insane degree of wear in the insides of both trailer tires. I'm not sure if this happened all at once on very hot roads or if it has been happening and I haven't noticed. The trailer repair tech says that the Typhoon is too heavy for the axle, thereby putting the weight on the inside of the tires. He suggests using radials.
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- tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
Radials or not - if the Ty is too heavy for the axle I would not use this setup as anything other than a yard trailer. I doubt that the axle would break, but if it does....
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
Yup, you'll just ruin a set of radials.tjr818 wrote:Radials or not - if the Ty is too heavy for the axle I would not use this setup as anything other than a yard trailer. I doubt that the axle would break, but if it does....
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
There is most definitely excess camber. Most probably caused by excess weight. However it could be the result of improperly assembled axle. I noticed that you have a dropped axle; you might want to have it checked for excessive camber. Or, you just might want to replace it with a new axle.
Look here for possible replacement: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... alesRank|1
I do not know what the gross weight of your boat is but I believe the ballast was 900 lbs.
Look here for possible replacement: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... alesRank|1
I do not know what the gross weight of your boat is but I believe the ballast was 900 lbs.
Have A Nice Day
- bottomscraper
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:08
- Location: Previous Owner of CD36 Mahalo #163 1990
- Contact:
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
Haven't had a boat trailer for a while but when I did I found Champion Trailer to be a good source for parts:
http://www.championtrailers.com
http://www.championtrailers.com
Rich Abato
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
- Calclements
- Posts: 16
- Joined: May 5th, '14, 07:27
- Location: Typhoon #784
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
Thanks for your replies. I'm going to replace the axle and step it up to 5000 lbs. that ought to do it with a typhoon (2000) and trailer and gear. Odd to have this problem since the trailer was designed for the boat.
-
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Nov 24th, '11, 08:53
- Location: 1975 CD25 239 Moon Shine
Re: Trailer... Tires... Axle weight rating...
I was surprised to see the extreme tire wear in your photo. I have a couple of useful stories for you.
In regards to trailer axle design, strength, and reliability, the only person ultimately responsible for its maintenance and reliability is us. We have to be picky about trailer purchase and maintenance, as it carries one of our favorite toys. It is very unusual to see a tire worn that badly which can only happen due to an overloaded or bent axle, and likely with a lot of miles. We have seen some dreadful combinations out there, all dealers are not scrupulous, and too many of them will sell a buyer the trailer which fits his pocketbook to make the sale, instead of the correct trailer for the boat. I would not think a Typhoon would need a 5000 pound axle, which will likely ride pretty hard. It is the whole combination and parts quality that really counts, and especially the tires, bearings adjustment and proper lube. But that would not fix the overloaded axle.
Plus all trailer manufacturers do not always do a good job in production. If you travel a lot you have seen many trailers on the side of the road, most with flat tires, many with bad bearings, and some with broken axles at the spindle weld joint. Most people do not check tire pressures, and will even run them intentionally low on pressure to "ride good." A proper trailer special tire (ie., ST) should be run at full "rated" pressure (cold) to prevent overheating of the side walls from too much flexure (too low pressure) which causes most blowouts. Most tires will start to check/crack in 5 years and the mfr will typically NOT warantee a blowout after 5 years. I guarantee this also applies to all RV tires on the highway. But most trailer tires are made in China now and many of those do not even have the DOT required (for sale in the US) date stamp on the sidewall to tell where and when it was made. For example my 2nd hand "Work and Play" cycle wagon made in Indiana was sold with 4 Chinese tires on it, 2 with legal DOT numbers and 2 without. The previous owner had one blow out on a dark rainy Sunday night far from home, when it was 3 years old, which took off part of the fender, and there was no warrantee. And he had no jack or spare. Later when I bought it I replaced all four with fresh new Good Year ST tires, which are also Chinese, but requested fresh 2 month old DOT dates, got a good 5 yr warrantee, and did the same with our small power boat trailer when they went over 5 yrs.
An old co-worker friend of mine bought and was very proud of his new 15 ft Boston Whaler power boat for which he had knocked the dealer down on price by opting for a lighter weight trailer with skinny tires. The trailer was obviously too light for the boat. I urged him to check his tire pressures often and look at the grease, install buddy bearings, and not to pressure them up more than half way to leave room for expansion. After one year use on local roads, he had to have the whole rig towed to the dealer on a larger trailer. He did not have time to check the bearings and the original trailer bearings had never ever been greased from the factory. The bearings got so hot the spindles turned colors and one snapped off going down the road. The spindle broke off likely from a minimal weld joint and too much load, with no grease. I have seen several more like that since.
I later ordered a new Shoreline 1900 pound, galvanized tandem axle sailboat trailer with a 8900 pound gross wt, for my old full keel 23 ft Kittywake (Alberg design) for travelling out of Houston. Luckily I inspected my new bearings when I was adding my new buddy bearings after I first towed it to the house, before fitting the sailboat to the trailer. The only thing in any of the 4 outer bearings was dry metal dust from the cotter pins rubbing inside the dry grease cup. I learned to not trust new stuff that day, and been careful ever since. I have been replacing tires after 5 years, keeping track of my air pressure, and always carry a correctly aired spare tire and a jack useful for the trailer. I have never blown a tire on any car or any of my many trailers, or burned up a bearing since those days. It is easier to do the maintenance, and my toys are too valuable to me to break down on the side of the road.
Best wishes
Bob C
In regards to trailer axle design, strength, and reliability, the only person ultimately responsible for its maintenance and reliability is us. We have to be picky about trailer purchase and maintenance, as it carries one of our favorite toys. It is very unusual to see a tire worn that badly which can only happen due to an overloaded or bent axle, and likely with a lot of miles. We have seen some dreadful combinations out there, all dealers are not scrupulous, and too many of them will sell a buyer the trailer which fits his pocketbook to make the sale, instead of the correct trailer for the boat. I would not think a Typhoon would need a 5000 pound axle, which will likely ride pretty hard. It is the whole combination and parts quality that really counts, and especially the tires, bearings adjustment and proper lube. But that would not fix the overloaded axle.
Plus all trailer manufacturers do not always do a good job in production. If you travel a lot you have seen many trailers on the side of the road, most with flat tires, many with bad bearings, and some with broken axles at the spindle weld joint. Most people do not check tire pressures, and will even run them intentionally low on pressure to "ride good." A proper trailer special tire (ie., ST) should be run at full "rated" pressure (cold) to prevent overheating of the side walls from too much flexure (too low pressure) which causes most blowouts. Most tires will start to check/crack in 5 years and the mfr will typically NOT warantee a blowout after 5 years. I guarantee this also applies to all RV tires on the highway. But most trailer tires are made in China now and many of those do not even have the DOT required (for sale in the US) date stamp on the sidewall to tell where and when it was made. For example my 2nd hand "Work and Play" cycle wagon made in Indiana was sold with 4 Chinese tires on it, 2 with legal DOT numbers and 2 without. The previous owner had one blow out on a dark rainy Sunday night far from home, when it was 3 years old, which took off part of the fender, and there was no warrantee. And he had no jack or spare. Later when I bought it I replaced all four with fresh new Good Year ST tires, which are also Chinese, but requested fresh 2 month old DOT dates, got a good 5 yr warrantee, and did the same with our small power boat trailer when they went over 5 yrs.
An old co-worker friend of mine bought and was very proud of his new 15 ft Boston Whaler power boat for which he had knocked the dealer down on price by opting for a lighter weight trailer with skinny tires. The trailer was obviously too light for the boat. I urged him to check his tire pressures often and look at the grease, install buddy bearings, and not to pressure them up more than half way to leave room for expansion. After one year use on local roads, he had to have the whole rig towed to the dealer on a larger trailer. He did not have time to check the bearings and the original trailer bearings had never ever been greased from the factory. The bearings got so hot the spindles turned colors and one snapped off going down the road. The spindle broke off likely from a minimal weld joint and too much load, with no grease. I have seen several more like that since.
I later ordered a new Shoreline 1900 pound, galvanized tandem axle sailboat trailer with a 8900 pound gross wt, for my old full keel 23 ft Kittywake (Alberg design) for travelling out of Houston. Luckily I inspected my new bearings when I was adding my new buddy bearings after I first towed it to the house, before fitting the sailboat to the trailer. The only thing in any of the 4 outer bearings was dry metal dust from the cotter pins rubbing inside the dry grease cup. I learned to not trust new stuff that day, and been careful ever since. I have been replacing tires after 5 years, keeping track of my air pressure, and always carry a correctly aired spare tire and a jack useful for the trailer. I have never blown a tire on any car or any of my many trailers, or burned up a bearing since those days. It is easier to do the maintenance, and my toys are too valuable to me to break down on the side of the road.
Best wishes
Bob C
BobC
Citrus Springs, Florida
Citrus Springs, Florida