Return to the Salish Sea

[David Patterson]

CLOUD GIRL in Conover Cove of Wallace Idland Marine Park, off Trincomali Channel of the Canada Gulf Islands. Salt Spring Island is across Houstoun Passage, to the SW. I'm stern tied to hold me in place where water is deep enough at low tide. The cove is pretty shallow on the north end.

[David Patterson]

To transit the Narrows (Dodd or False) below Nanaimo by sail alone makes for a stirring challenge for the cruiser under sail. Very busy Dodd Narrows can have 9 knot currents, not to even be considered at peak speed. I've sailed through Dodd only once, heading south, wing 'n' wing as I recall. False Narrows is far less busy, with only 4 knots or so at peak. I was the only boat yesterday when I transited. Tight tolerances for error. (I only grounded once.) Was on a run or broad reach while I went through. A satisfying success. The chart is Canadian, the depths are in meters, at datum.

[David Patterson]

Outside Nanaimo Harbor, on Galiano Island, are cliffs heavily populated with nesting seabirds. They don't account for all of the white in the rocks. Seven ferry routes show on the chart, from Northumberland Channel to Horswell Channel. Just a few miles in distance, but in light airs a fair amount of time. Notice the smooth surface between my stern and that giant high speed ferry, which crosses the Strait of Georgia, Nanaimo to Vancouver city. Their wakes can really rob momentum from a cruiser under sail. I was glad this one passed astern. My little anemometer hangs only boom high, so under-measures the wind. I've gotten used to reading it upside down, since I've had it for 8 years. It reads 1.7 knots, an improvement over the previous hour. Last photo is of part of a collection of originally driftwood shacks which, I recall reading, go back to Depression days and earlier, Hammond Bay/Pipers Lagoon, Vancouver Island.

[John Schafer]

Under sail through False Narrows and Dodd is quite an achievement. Allen Farrell is the only other sailor I know of to make that passage. I get nervous just thinking about it. While the memory is fresh, record as many of the landmark signs and range markers as to which side of channel to navigate. That would be greatly appreciated by future sailors wishing to attempt that channel. Last week when we went thru Dodd, we and other vessels announced on ch. 16 our plans to transit, but a 45' BC trawler decided to enter, unannounced. While we were at narrowest point, he was playing chicken with us. I just held my course, center channel, and held my gestures, too, but Karen on the bow did not hold back her dirty look as he passed by. Hope you get a southerly push across the straits, unusually light air for May. John.

[Skeep]

Fascinating as usual.

[David Patterson]

John, thanks for the attaboy, and if I get back in time for the Alberg Rendezvous, and I intend to, I'll sit down with the chart. Allen Farrell's CHINA CLOUD, with bilge keels and a relatively shallow draft, must have been fine at high water slack. Going south in either Narrows with a following wind is kind of ideal, I think on my limited experience. I had to enter False from the SE at low water slack, though I had 5' above datum. Not having been there before, I got too close to Mudge. A guy named John, off a tri named DING HO, told me "enter close to Mudge, but not too close." Well, I got too close. Used my sweep oar to push off. The whole soft grounding event took about 15", but gave the tide time to turn. I have two significant faults as a sailing cruiser, aside from my inexperience: one is that I persist in getting too close to the broken winds and conflicting currents near points, while the other is I tend to push my timing for slack water in narrows and passes. Maybe I will eventually learn, maybe I won't. Meanwhile, I'm having a grand time. I intend to cross from Hammond Bay to Jedediah tomorrow. I've been promised 5-15 SE, but they have reneged on their nice promises before. [The photo is a screen shot of my course thru False. Compare with the chart I posted above and you can spot my course. The lines of the 1:200,000 chart are so broad the track isn't very informative. The triangle boat symbol shows me when anchored in Percy Anchorage, a southeast running current in spite of early flood.]

[David Patterson]

Sunrise, Strait of Georgia, Force 4 NW. 2'-3' wind waves rob little CLOUD GIRL of her momentum.

[David Patterson]

A cloudy morning, looking SE down the Strait of Georgia, from South Thormanby Island, strongly gives the impression that the Salish Sea is just what it is, a cold-water inland sea of substantial proportions. Nothing like the vastness I am moved by when looking at, say, the Atlantic from Long Island's Montauk Point. Still.... These rocky islands only emerged from their burden of glaciers 12 or 15 thousand years ago, and the vegetation here --still subjected to intense weather at times, especially winds-- has yet to build much soil. It is trying, however.

[David Patterson]

Pender Harbor's waterways, which give it the nickname of Canada's Venice, can be entered from the south, via Bargain Bay. The boat can't go on, but the crew can, by dinghy or afoot. This bay is quieter and very lovely. No through traffic. Everyone who stops at Pender seems to have a way they prefer to visit, and they all seem different as I hear them. My first visit, but my choice seems a good one for me so far. A provisioning point before attempting upper Jervis Inlet.

[David Patterson]

Sky, land, water. Pender Harbor BC. In those mountains to the north is the fjord I hope to sail into, Jervis Inlet. My little cruiser is anchored to the left. The next photo is of the site of an early 20th century fishing operation, the dry laid stone retaining wall holding up very well. The tidal range is 17 or 18 feet, about half tide in the photo. Perhaps this was the foundation of a family's prosperity today. Some one has shielded the dock from winds, for picnics now. Thrown rocks are beginning to remove the windows. Just before dusk, in the last photo, a boat house is reflected in the waters, serenely.

[Sea Hunt Video]

David:

Beautiful photos, beautiful land, beautiful waters. Thank you VERY MUCH for sharing. I doubt I will ever get there (even for a vacation) but your photos are very much like a guided tour.

[David Patterson]

Yah, we have to rely on one another. Thank you for your enjoyment.

[Doug Hill]

David,

Your travelog continues to be outstanding. It's like getting the National Geographic dedicated to the Pacific Northwest and Cape Dory's.
There has got to be a book in this somewhere!

Fair Winds,
Doug

[David Patterson]

Thanks for the appreciations, it helps my cruising seem more meaningful. My little green shore boat is dwarfed by the macho and probably aptly named fishing boat, in this first photo. At low water the 30 degree ramp seems pretty steep when carrying provisions. The 18' tidal range is impressive, but nothing like the Bay of Funday! In the second photo the settee is covered with references as I consult the charts and guidebooks (one is from the Dreamspeaker series) about Agamemnon Channel and Princess Louisa Inlet. I'm finding it to be a challenging undertaking, but that is part of what makes cruising as I do a sport for me. Anchorages available in Agamemnon and Jervis Inlet are not always confidence inspiring on the charts. Wind enhancements and reversals, possible williwaws, tidal currents of course, the wakes from motorists, deep deep water right up to shore...I'm daunted. No reason not to admit that. A high wind warning in the Strait of Georgia, through tomorrow, gives me time to mull it all over a bit longer. The last photo is gratuitous (well, they all are). I spotted the sign in a local coffee shop.

[David Patterson]

Asked to give a bit more of an idea about the context of my current cruise, I'm posting a large scale chart of Jervis Inlet. The chart grid is 20 miles. Only one of multiple fjords on the BC coast, this one has the fabled Chatterbox Falls at the end. Some high speed boats actually make a one day trip of it. I certainly won't do that, if I get there at all. I'm in Pender Harbor by the neck of Francis Peninsula. I'll swing south around into Agamemnon, up the reaches of the inlet. If all goes well. Only one way to return down the inlet, of course. I'm not sure after that. The photo is poor, but gives the idea, I hope. The second photo is of a rock hidden under water the last time I came to anchor. A very good idea to enter an anchorage at low water here, no matter how detailed the chart may be, for it must be accurately matched to what can be seen. I was cautious, for which I'm very glad. (Bargain Bay, half hour from Madeira Park by foot or dinghy.)