What to do about interior wood around the ports?

[Evergreen]

Good day to all:

Damage to the interior wood around the ports due to inevitable leaks seems to be a chronic problem on Cape Dorys.

Question: What have owners found to be the best way to deal with the damaged wood (after the ports are rebedded) in order to minimize future problems?

Some possible options are: Just replace the wood as was originally installed; Apply a synthetic laminate (such as white formica); Install some other synthetic product (?); or ______?______ .
For those of you who installed white formica, how did it turn out? It is said to lighten the inside of the boat but I wonder if it is wise to go away from the traditional look.

Please tell us what you did, how it worked out in the long run, and your impressions.

Thanks so much,

[Skylark]

I have issue as well. However, after living aboard I've come to the conclusion that the ports are not actually leaking. It is mostly from condensation. I've been able to reduce some of this by using the clear shrink plastic over the glass portion of the ports. But, I still get a significant amount of condensate on the bronze frame when the weather changes in the springtime.

Eventually, I think the only real solution will be to remove the wood around the ports. It's going to get wet. Solid teak would be better than plywood but it will still get moldy.

UPDATE:
It's not condensation! http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35480

[Evergreen]

I agree about the condensation being a significant player in the game. Especially for those of us who sail in the north.

One of the problems of replacing with a different wood product is that I believe it is only a thin piece of paneling. Any paneling product is not going to hold up. I did consider varnishing both sides, and the edges, of whatever I did use to replace, in order to try to seal the water out to a certain extent.

A synthetic product would be best. That is why I was considering (an my boat yard recommended) white formica. In the past I have noticed that the interior around the ports of some Cape George cutters is white formica. I am just concerned about creating an eye sore in a traditional boat.

Has anyone seen or done alternative methods?

[John Stone]

Most of my portlights leaked and the 1/4" teak ply was completely rotted. When I removed the portlights I was determined to address the problem. On my boat, I don't think the cause was condensation. I removed the headliner (that extends down the cabin side behind the ply and under the side deck). There were water stain streaks down the inside of the fiberglass. The water cam in under the trim ring. The PO attempted to address the leaks with silicon (a terrible choice for almost any project on a boat). After I replaced the ply, I over drilled the holes, filled with epoxy, then drilled them out for the portlight bolts and PM nuts (I have only found the PM nuts at Spartan Marine). I believe this will protect the vulnerable plywood edge grain from water intrusion. Then bedded the portlights with a combination of butyl rubber and 3M 4000. I documented our efforts and included pictures, links, vendors, etc. You can find the info here. http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... ights.html

Removing the headliner is not in anyway required to address leaky portlights. I only mention what we did to illustrate that I had first hand evidence of the amount of water that leaked in under the portlights. Rebedding the portlights is a big project, but doable if you are patient and take your time.

I don't think the Cape George used formica unless it was owner built. I don't think formica is any more waterproof than varnish or paint as long as the surface is not penetrated. Once water gets under formica the results are the same. Cape George Cutters are traditionally a glass hull with an all wood deck framing and cabin sides. Often owners paint the cabin side white to provide a brighter interior--not a bad idea in the Pacific NW where it rains so often. However, if varnished vice oiled, the sides will reflect a lot of light.

Good luck.

[jen1722terry]

Our 31 also gets condensate drips from the ports. It's a pain over a bunk.

We sail in Maine and Nova Scotia where the nights are cool. So far, no damage (we try to wipe the wood try every so often). We ordered a sample of a new product this winter, a plastic channel that self adheres under the port light to catch any drips. We'll report on how it works in June.

Check it out at the link below.

www.MyDryBunks@SeaworthyGoods.com

Great Sailing!

[Paul D.]

If the water penetration has been dealt with one thing you could try with existing teak is a light sanding and rubbing in some lemon oil. I lemon oil my interior teak every season or two. I choose a warm day, usually while everyone has gone ashore for a hike or something, open all the ports and hatches, play some music and rub away forepeak to quarter berth. I do the ash ceiling strips as well.

The lemon oil gives a wonderful rich color, if a bit darker, to the teak, smells nice and prevents mold and mildew. Light water marks from condensation usually go away too. The cabin is noticeably nicer finished and it takes about an hour if I hustle. Use only a pure lemon oil with no silicone or waxes. The stuff goes a long way.

It is a good idea to keep the hatches open and go for a swim afterwards.

[tjr818]

Paul,
Do you have a source for Pure Lemon Oil? All I can find seems to be lemon flavored oil, mostly mineral oil. I've tried Murphy's oil soap, it's a mess and doesn't seem to do much, Liquid Gold is easier but not much better. I'm half tempted to get out the white paint and go Herreshoff

[Jeff and Sarah]

I was invited aboard an Alberg 37 this weekend that has 10 Cape Dory bronze ports installed. The owner used white formica as opposed to teak veneer and much to my surprise, it looked fantastic. I did not get any photos unfortunately. When I first read this thread last week I thought formica would not look very good. After seeing it in person however, I was proven wrong. This isn't a project I see myself tackling any time soon as the veneer aboard Prerequisite is in fairly good shape. If it ever gets past the point of no return, I'll probably switch to white formica.

[Skylark]

Rebed the Ports: http://capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35480

[Evergreen]

Here is a blog link relating the job Great Island Boat Yard did on Evergreen:

http://www.greatislandboatyard.com/we-do-windows/

[Skylark]

Curious, what was the cost to have the ports done on evergreen ?

[Evergreen]

Hello Skylark:

As you know any work done by a professional yard is going to be ridiculously expensive. That said: We live in Florida and our boat is in Maine, so we must have most of our work done professionally unless we were to decide to spend the entire sailing season working on the boat. Also, any work done by people who do it all the time will always end up ten times better than any work that I would have the time, knowledge, and energy to accomplish.

The rebedding of our ports also involved refurbishing the interior cabin walls surrounding the ports. Much of the wood around the interior of the ports was ruined due to condensation that accumulates on the port frames when we sail in the cooler northern Canadian waters. This issue has been improved significantly by the addition of an Espar heater yet the condensation still occurs often enough. Our goal was to improve the appearance while using a substance that would be less adversely affected by the humidity. Hence the choice of going with Formica. I will update down the road as to how well the new design holds up to the elements.

This particular job was estimated as: "Total estimate 100 hrs. labor ($6800 plus materials)."
That said --- I have had just the ports removed and rebedded a couple of other times over the years and it was significantly less $ each time.

[Ben Thomas]

I removed the stained teak veneer along cabin top sides when I resealed ports and replaced with Laminate. Fairly straight forward job. The most tedious was removing the teak backing plates for the combing boards to get the laminate under them.
also new laminate on counters and faces. A much lighter interior, well worth the time and trouble. Older laminate on countertops pealed right off with a little persuasion from a heat gun.
[URL=http://s405.photobucket.com/user/B ... .jpg[/img][/url]
[URL=http://s405.photobucket.com/user/B ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[Ben Thomas]

A few more shots of new laminate in areas.


[URL=http://s405.photobucket.com/user/B ... .jpg[/img][/url]
[URL=http://s405.photobucket.com/user/B ... .jpg[/img][/url]
[URL=http://s405.photobucket.com/user/B ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[John Stone]

Ben, nice job. Looks very professional--clean and tight.