All MD7A/B owners check this out..

[Larry DeMers]

Guys,

The Raw Water pump (that is, the cooling water pump for an engine without a heat exchanger)is a potential pathway for water mixing with the engine oil,, destroying the engine.

If your water pump is dripping water out of the weep hole in the bottom of the pump assembly, or from the mating surfaces of the engine/pump, then the front seals are leaking. There are two seals, one holds back the water (front), the other holds back the oil. Assume that the wear factor is identical for the two seals, mounted on the same rotating shaft, and that would seem to mean that those seals both need to be changed immediately.(it isn't quite identical I suspect...
oil is more lubricating than unfiltered water, so the inner seal would wear somewhat slower?? How much?)

Mine is leaking. So I called Dipietro International (1-800-447-9482)
for a new pump, a rebuild kit for the old pump, and an assortment of crushable washers for the fuel system. It's expensive..these Volvo parts. $178 for the total. But then the damage that not changing the seals (at least) can cause would be a tad larger! Check yours over this spring, watch it after the engine has been running a bit..look for a couple drips/second off the lower bolt of the pump assy. If it's there..better change the seals.


Thought this was worth posting due to the nature of the danger.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers



demers@sgi.com

[Bill DeCamp]

Guys,

The Raw Water pump (that is, the cooling water pump for an engine without a heat exchanger)is a potential pathway for water mixing with the engine oil,, destroying the engine.

If your water pump is dripping water out of the weep hole in the bottom of the pump assembly, or from the mating surfaces of the engine/pump, then the front seals are leaking. There are two seals, one holds back the water (front), the other holds back the oil. Assume that the wear factor is identical for the two seals, mounted on the same rotating shaft, and that would seem to mean that those seals both need to be changed immediately.(it isn't quite identical I suspect...
oil is more lubricating than unfiltered water, so the inner seal would wear somewhat slower?? How much?)

Mine is leaking. So I called Dipietro International (1-800-447-9482)
for a new pump, a rebuild kit for the old pump, and an assortment of crushable washers for the fuel system. It's expensive..these Volvo parts. $178 for the total. But then the damage that not changing the seals (at least) can cause would be a tad larger! Check yours over this spring, watch it after the engine has been running a bit..look for a couple drips/second off the lower bolt of the pump assy. If it's there..better change the seals.


Thought this was worth posting due to the nature of the danger.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers

These seals are identical, the weep hole is to signal that the seal is trying to pass water towards the engine side seal and possible contaminate the crankcase with seawater. If the shaft is not scored pressing in new seals is not a difficult job,one hint donot lubricate the pump bore that the seal seat in, they have to be a dry fit to stay in place also if the shaft is worn seating the seal in a slightly different area may forgo replacing the shaft. I've done this rebuild a couple of times but as Larry mentioned eventually a replacement of the whole pump will be required.

Over and Out and Have a Merry Holiday Season
Bill & Jayne "Infinity" CD28 #342




tocoiriverrats@aol.com

[Jim]

The water pump seals of the CD 30 which I recently purchased, failed, luckly for me this showed up in the survey of the oil, prior to purchase. The oil was 20% salt water and had been for some time. Estimated costs to pull and rebuild engine $4500 to $5500. I am currently having a new Yanmar installed. Economicly it made more sense to install the new engine, although it did go against my preservationist side. The $178 for the new seals would have been a low price for the old owner to have paid in comparison to the drop in the boat value which was brought about by the leak.



otter777@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Wow...well there you have it folks. Totaled engine. For want of a $15.00 seal (i bought a whole new pump assy, plus some replacement seals for that $178. Your original owner probably never saw the dripping symptom).
By the way, I agree with your decision to replace that engine. There would be corrosion throughout every space reached by the oil, as well as all bearings and journals, etc. I don't know if you could actualy rebuild something like that.

Well, the good part is that you caught it before she was yours entirely.


May you enjoy your Cd30 as much as we do ours. She's a great design!

Cheers and Happy Holidays,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~Frozen super-solid on Lake Superior~~~<oi! it's cold!

The water pump seals of the CD 30 which I recently purchased, failed, luckly for me this showed up in the survey of the oil, prior to purchase. The oil was 20% salt water and had been for some time. Estimated costs to pull and rebuild engine $4500 to $5500. I am currently having a new Yanmar installed. Economicly it made more sense to install the new engine, although it did go against my preservationist side. The $178 for the new seals would have been a low price for the old owner to have paid in comparison to the drop in the boat value which was brought about by the leak.

demers@sgi.com

[Ken Cave]

I just had my old water pump worked on by Cap Sante Marine in Anacortes as I can not, at the present time, crawl into the back of the engine due to total hip replacement I had a couple of months ago. The first time I started the engine I noticed water in the bilge that should not have been there before!

If it wasn't for your expertise on this subject, I would probably have one ruined engine!

Thanks again for your help!



bcave@whidbey.net